I need to rip sheet laminate into strips. I’ve done it on the table saw, but it binds under the fence (because it is thin enough to catch). I expect that I might have the same problem with a router table fence.
Any ideas welcome (a search revealed nothing).
TIA
Edit to add: I could sandwich the laminate between two layers of sacrificial plywood…any better ideas?
Edited 8/2/2006 11:07 pm ET by basswood
Replies
The best way is a laminate slitter. Otherwise I would clamp a wooden fence to the table saw fence to keep the laminate from slipping under it. I have also cut it with shears or by scoring and snapping but sometimes have had it crack on me with those methods.
I use an L-shaped auxiliary fence. The side made of 1/2" plywood is clamped to the fence of the saw, and the other leg, made of 1/8" Masonite or a strip of laminate, lies flat on the table surface, and the laminate rides over top of it. The small change in height isn't usually a problem.
It goes smoother if you glue a piece of laminate to the face of the 1/2" ply.
I think I'll build me one of those aux. fence/table jig things...sounds good.I'll try it out this next Monday.Thanks
Tom--I've cut lots of laminate on table saws over the years and your method is the best I've seen.
Bill and Tom and ALLDid the deed today...your method worked very well. I'll post some photos this weekend of my version of your suggestion. Thanks everyone, for the helpful advice.
The slitter is the way to go.
but.
What size strips are you needing to make and how inaccurate can you be?
In a pinch, a blade left circ. saw held in the right hand with a block taped to the rip fence with your fingers dangerously close under the fence to keep the lam up on the fence. (Blade left because for some reason I have more dexterity in this application than with my right side saw.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I need 5", 7" and 13-3/8" strips for a dental office custom laminate job (for applications were I can't glue down first and then trim).This is not just for edge banding. Does a slitter do wide rips & how much do those cost?
The german model I have only goes just shy of 4''.
I've had it for years, I really can't remember the $'s.
You're talking cut and glue, no trim?
I don't know if I wouldn't rip with my circ. saw (lam good side down), but if I had the brains I might use the EZSmart guide.
How long?
I've clamped to a straight deck and used my laminate trimmer to do the rip. Takes a steady hand, but the cut is gooooood.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Relaminating (pull & replace existing) already trimmed...trim hemmed in by wallpaper...this is a new experiment for me. May have to bugger up the wallpaper & redo it the normal way. I gave no promises on how it would go & it is a T&M gig so I'll come out ok.Happy repeat customers are a good thing.
Ive got the virutex hand held one. Was about 100 bucks. I think it will only cut to about 4 inches. I believe I got 4 1/2 one time by adjusting it farther out than normal but cant remember for sure. They make power slitters too, depends on how much cutting you have.
We have a laminate cutting jig for the fence on the saw - essentially it is a piece of laminate that sits UNDER the fence on the saw and extends out to the blade whatever the width of the piece is you are cutting...(for thin side strips) and wider pieces just go over the top...it keeps the laminate from sliding under the fence...
This place is a treasure trove of info!Thanks.
1. Set the fence to your rip.2. Lower the blade, and attach a piece of 1/4" plywood to the table with double stick tape.3. Turn on the saw, and slowly raise the blade through the plywood.You now have a zero clearance set-up, and the lam. can't ride under the fence, but you will have to repeat the procedure for each width you require.''Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.'' Plato
If you are going to use an auxillary wood fence - then back bevel the bottom so that it fits tight to the table, eliminating any possibility of slipping underneath.PC made (makes) a slitter attachment that attches to their laminate trimmer standard base - works pretty good if you can find one.JT
Here's a simple one I saw.
1- take a scrape piece of ply or 1" stock and cut it on the table saw about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through
2- leave the saw running and rip your laminate on top of the 1/2 cut piece of stock
3- the stock will "float" on the blade and will not cut any furthur and the laminate will not slip under the saw fence.
Trick
http://grungefm.com
I usually use a piece of wall angle, the kind used on hung ceilings. Any 1" x 1" angle would do .
Place it with one leg on the table, the other against the fence. Tape or screw the upright leg to the fence.
Now the laminate can't slip under the fence. You have a smooth, clean face for the laminate to ride against. And it moves with the fence when you change sizes.
Try it you'll like it! Buic
I have several p-lam jigs that have been used for years.Use 1/4" melamine or MDF. Attach a 2" rip (or sized dictated by your fence guide bars, my Bessimier fence calls for 2" rips) under the front edge purpindicular to the fence. Do the same at the outfeed side. This will stabilize the 1/4". Raise the blade slowly into the 1/4". I have jigs that range from 6" to 30" wide that i use to keep the laminate flat for any size cut.
A straight edge and a router is best if you need a perfect edge.
Sounds like a nice project. Medical work is very good $$ but involves a lot of P-lam and off hour work. Make sure you have good ventilation for the contact cement.
Here's an old thread on JLC I started in January.
http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29639&highlight=fence
I made an auxillary fence just for laminate.
Don't call me daughter.
The Laminate Ripping Jig/Table worked great. I pulled laminate off of 3 tops and a backsplash and replaced laminate flush with the bullnosed trim. Two of the tops had trim on both sides and the laminate had to be a perfect fit. I built the small art niche from scratch (instead of relaminating).
The ripping table is made of 1/2" MDO. Here are some photos:
Edited 8/12/2006 6:50 pm ET by basswood
lotsa solid suggestions here.
The laminate slitter of (my) choice is the virutex hand held. I think the older model went to 3.5", the newer model to 4" (or was it 4 and 4.5???) There are extensions you can purchase, but they only add about another 1/2", and like the slitter, aint cheap.
There is an offshore knock-off that is substantially cheaper, I tried one, and it wouldn't cut worth sh*t.
I also have the bench mounted slitter (virutex), but you gotta move the laminate through it, a totally awkward venture at best. I have it, I tried it, and it sits on the shelf.
TS cutting is good, once yu figure out how to deal with the floppiness of say a 12' sheet of laminate.....
My solution was to take a huge scrap of 1/4" ply and extend the "infeed" part of the table saw by 6'My outfeed table runs 7' past the end, so it keeps the whole sheet basically flat.
When ripping, I often toss a 4"x8' ish scrap of 3/4 ply on top of the laminate, just to give it some weight and help keep it flat.
Width wise cuts on 5x12's, I snaggled a piece of 2x4ish aluminimum extrusion from the salvage yard (20 bucks) and made a sled for a laminate trimmer. Used a v-cutter to minimize waste.
It can sit across the top of the table saw-I can get you a picture if you want....
But back to the laminate slitter. Where this really shines is slicing edging for laminate edged doors. Fast and accurate. Just watch that the rollers are set so they don't leave little pressure cracks running into the surface.
Eric