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Does that tend to cause any code problems (I realize there are local variations)?
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Does that tend to cause any code problems (I realize there are local variations)?
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The idea was to run the floor drain into the laundry standpipe immediately above the active laundry trap so evaporation isn't an issue (unless the laundry sits unused for that long and then it's a problem fllor drain or not).
The only thing above the floor drain on this branch is the laundry... washer only, no sink. All other house fixtures empty into the building drain both closer to the building sewer and lower in elevation than both the washer and this floor drain. But draining to daylight may be an easy option. There won't be much head, about 6", the drain would go through the floor, turn 90 degrees and then run through a joist bay and out through a side wall above the mud sills. I could get a little more head running out through the block foundation wall, but that's more work and it would possibly be in snow cover rather than daylight sometimes. Given no positive pressure and no real head would a check valve reliably open? A screen would keep large critters out but not bugs. Another alternative is to dig a little drywell in the dirt crawl space with all this plumbing is running through, but same problem with bugs.
Maybe the solution is a checkvalve between the floordrain and the laundry standpipe.
*Don't know for sure. No permits on this DIY job. I might anticipate more of a problem running "graywater" to daylight.
*This doesn't sound right. Why are we so worried about water from a washer? They're put everywhere, for gosh sakes, including second floors. More likely to have a bathtub overflow. The amount of gunk that comes out of a washing machine when it drains is amazing. You never see it if you have a stand pipe, but mine drains into a laundry tub, and I have a mesh sleeve over it. The sleeve clogs with lint in about two weeks. All of those years in other houses draining into the stand pipe -- a wonder there weren't clogs and back-ups. This is why I wouldn't have the washer drain and the floor drain sharing a trap.
*Sounds as if this is going to be a hassle installing this floor drain. And even if you do work it in the plans, you may be interested in the Watts Intelliflow. You simply plug the control unit into the electrical outlet, attach the unit to the hot and cold supply bibs, attach the washer hoses to the control and then plug the washing machine into the control. The control automatically opens and closes the water supply to the machine hoses based upon the run cycle of the washer. It won't help if the hoses spring a leak during the cycle but would sure give you a little peace of mind should a hose burst while you are not using the laundry [like the day you leave on a two week vacation!]http://www.wattsregulator.com/intelliflow.htm
*Correction: the unit has to be attached to the "hot and cold supply lines" not the hose bibs. Jeff
*Q&D: You could also flip off the water supply to the washer when it is unused, easiest with 1/4-turn ball valves. But you're worried about overflows.Include a small curb in front of the machine alcove. Put a water sensor on the floor like those for emergency sump pumps, have it set off an alarm BUT rather than (or in addition to) turning on a pump have it disconnect the washer. If you're worried that the washer solenoids could fail add your own on the water supplies. This is of course getting a little paranoid.BTW, on house preservation, don't run the dryer when you are not around. They really do catch fire if enough lint accumulates. Tough to put a smoke detector in a bathroom, too.
*The Solution: I appreciate all the input. The whole floor has to be torn up anyway so adding the floor drain is minimal expense and effort for the insurance (whether against overflow or burst hoses). The modification to the laundry standpipe is just one additional sanitary tee above the trap (evaporation's not a problem) and a short trap arm. I got a 2" PVC check valve for $20 (retail including tax) that will attach quickly between the drain and trap arm with a rubber elbow and a rubber coupling. It's the flapper type and appears very sensitive to both opening and closing pressure, so neither floor drain nor clogged system backup pressures seem to be an issue. (Unlike the spring type check valves I'm more familiar with for pump systems which might not open easily with only atmospheric pressure from the floor drain.)It needs to be installed level and horizontal but that's not a problem either. It's a well made unit; Zoeller Co., Louisville, KY.Easier than side wall penetration to daylight, no bugs, pretty good protection against sanitary back ups.
*The attached file (drain1.gif) shows my understanding of how you want to hook this up. However, the trap for a washer standpipe should not be below the floor level and a single trap should not serve more than one fixture, with the exception of a multiple bowl kitchen sink. Your standpipe should be trapped above the floor with the trap outlet connected to a verticle drain pipe which also terminates in a vent through the roof or be connected to a vent that does terminate through the roof. The floor drain should be trapped separately and connected to the drain downstream of the washer trap (as shown in the diagram drain2.gif, attached to either this post or the following one). Although I didn't show it on the diagram, the arm between the floor drain trap and it's connection to the main drain may also be required to be vented. Without adequate venting, you run the risk of trap siphonage and the entrance of sewer gas into the house.
*OK, I tried to upload both graphics at the same time and it didn't work - here's the first one.
*And here's the second.
*Thanks for the input. Great graphics, and the first one accurately depicts what I intended to do, except for the check valve between the floor drain and standpipe and the vent below the trap.I guess there are two types of issue a) will it work or cause problems and b) will it meet code.This is DIY and will not be permitted so I'm not overly concerned about code nuances. But I did check with the inspector and a below floor laundry trap is OK with him. The drain pipe will be inside a wall with trap in basement crawlspace below to allow cleanout access. Do you see any functional problems with the below floor trap?The drain line will be vented directly to roof, taking off within code allowance of the trap (2" drain pitched at 1/4" in 12", 1 1/2" vent). Do you see any functional problems here?I'm not too concerned about a code technicality characterizing the floor drain as an additional fixture. I read somewhere that laundry floor drain pans should be installed above active traps so that they don't evaporate/dry out allowing sewer gas into the structure. (That's the other reason to have the trap below floor, to get it below the floor drain.) I took this to be practical advice and I guess assumed it was code compliant, but didn't really think about code except to inquire if the below floor location was OK. Don't want to get into trap primers or other complexities to keep a separate trap wet. I guess worst case is some future inspection some day finds the shared trap a violation and I abandon the floor drain which would leave me where most of the posts suggested I start. Don't bother or drain to daylight. I really don't expect an inspection or if there is one for the inspector to get down into this dirt crawlspace.Thanks agin.
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Some months back I posted a question about a waterproof laundry floor and draining it. The idea was to handle the occasional (if ever) accidental overflow, though there was some concern in the responses about burst supply hoses.
Any way, time to move forward. I've decided to ceramic tile the floor rather than use a plastic pan., they look pretty flimsy and I don't have room for a pan under the washer only with the dryer pretty snug next to it.
Question 1 is this. This room is tight. It just accomodates W & D with about an inch between and 2 inches on each side. Installation and removal for servicing will require sliding directly in or out from the front of the room. A shower like curb in the floor would contain that maybe never water, but make it necessary to lift the appliance over it. I've toyed with the idea of a lower curved "swale" in the tile floor, but that could be a PITA. Any ideas to buy or fabricate a removable barrier or "dam" that would have some sort of a gasket or seal against the floor tile and baseboard tile? Or should I just go flat and expect that most of the water will go down the drain before it goes out onto the hardwood floor in the adjoining room and no matter what I'll be better off with the drain that without it?
One of the goals in the whole project by the way is a more 'elder friendly house' with the laundry on the main living floor and no tripping hazards like curbs, steps, saddles and raised threshholds.
Question 2. Laundry standpipe and drain 2". Floor drain 2". Trap must be about 12" below floor given elevation and pitch of line to building drain. Floor drain to tie into standpipe in the joist space above the active laundry trap (down out of floor, 90d. elbow, horizontal line to sanitary tee in standpipe. So the question is, will there be a tendancy for laundry drain water (assume normal operation no blockages) to want to back up that floor drain or will the 2" standpipe take it with little back pressure? Is a longer floor drain trap arm better in anticipation of this problem?
*I would suggest not connecting to your sanitary plumbing system, for a number of reasons. Any fixtures above this drain could back up through it if the line is clogged below. Secondly, the water in unused floor drains will evaporate out. In commercial applications it is often necessary to install water lines to keep the traps primed. I don't think you want to do this in your case. If possible run your drain to daylight, don't use a trap, but instead use a check valve to keep critters out. Without the water seal in the trap, you won't need a vent either. Put the drain under the washer area and pitch as much as possible to it. Use cove tiles around the washer area and you shouldn't have to much of a problem if the rare event should occur.