Replies

1. 
   Notchman | Apr 04, 2005 05:52am | #1

   Are you talking hand-peeled and scribed logs, milled profile logs or what?  Saddle notch corners, dovetail corners, precut corners?  Utilities in the walls?  Partitions?

   Got some photos you can post of the existing log structure?  How old is it?  What kind of foundation?

   I'm not trying to be a pr##k, but if this is new territory for you and you want help, you're going to have to be more specific.

   I've done both as have some others here.  There is a world of difference in the time, tools and techniques involved.

   And where are you located and what wood species is involved? Will permits be required?

   Fill in a few of those blanks and a number of folks here can point you in the right direction.

1. 
   TimFinn | Apr 04, 2005 06:09am | #2

   I know, I know - no easy answers here.  Living in western Maine;  logs will be milled from a local mill.  Just got the message on my machine tonight, I haven't personally talked w/ them since they changed their minds.  Believe existing logs are 6x8?  Building codes, permits?  What are those? --  Very rural, no such beast around my area. Saddle notch corners seem to describe existing structure, but not sure. Maybe I'll have to post later when I get more details.  Thanks

    

1. 
   mountainbuilder | Apr 04, 2005 07:13am | #3

   Yes there is more work involved but I find the work is enjoyable.

   Blue ollies every 12", dowel the cuts, keep 3 full log courses above all windowes and doors w/ no breaks, buck all windows and doors w/ a routed spline in the log ends, allow 4" above all windows and doors unless the logs are kiln dried, then its only 1".  Kerf cutt all interior walls meeting exterior logs, also keeping these walls with the same gaps as the windows.  Screw ollies through top plate of walls into a 2x nailed onto the celling directly above the wall. 

   Wiring can be pre drilled before the logs are set with some planning.  However, running the wiring in a routed base board will save serious time.

   Pricing will vary with the region.  Dryins in my area (includes logs set, roof sheeted and papered, windows and doors set) run from $9.00 per sq. ft. on th low end to over $13.00 per sq. ft.

   You need to see if the logs are pre notched b/f you give a price.  Also in some areas log thickness is a issue.  In my county 6" passes but another county I work in requires 8".

    

   Have fun,

   Ben

1. 
   Heck | Apr 05, 2005 03:40am | #6

   Your details are what I am familiar with.In my area, however,setting the log package (no sheathing,no windows or doors) will set you back 14.00 to 16.00 sq ftHeck If I know....

1. 
   TimFinn | Apr 05, 2005 04:12am | #7

   Thanks for the info all.  Hopefully I'll know more tomorrow when I meet w/ homeowner.  I'm just a little discouraged I worked hard on my estimate, and know I'll probably have to start over; sounds like may be more work.  Also don't know if I like it when HO chooses the supplier I have to use - like I said, 1st it was okay to do log siding, now found a mill.  Maybe I'm just being sensitive; I'd just rather have them say "here's what I want" and then leave it up to me to do it.  Oh well, I think I'll enjoy it and I'll be getting paid to learn a new building technique.

2. 
   TMO | Apr 05, 2005 12:53am | #4

   I've done it both ways, but the logs I used were from a kit. They were tongue and grooved with a gasket and glue between each log. You can go the frame/siding route production is faster and the finishing details are easier. If you go with logs I would suggest getting an impact wrench or two.

   Ask more specific questions and I'll try to get better info.

3. 
   davidmeiland | Apr 05, 2005 02:29am | #5

   What's the possibility of having a log builder put up the shell for you? There are lots of log houses around here, and log guys come in to do them, after pre-cutting and dry-assembling the entire thing at their yard.