I’m in the process of finishing a porch soffit and need make the header look thicker so my coulombs and caps look better where they meet the header. I figured I would just fur it out and cover it with a plywood. My concern is the butt joints of the plywood looking like crap. I want it to look like one solid beam. One person said to sheetrock it, but I’m a little concerned with moisture problems. I don’t think caulk would completely conceal the joints either. Any suggestions? Mike.
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Don't use butt joints. Use scarf joints. Fit properly, and nailed tight, they'll look great.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
Try this ... cut a rabbet on the edge of the side pieces ... make the rabbet deep enough so that the little flap left over is the thickness of the top layer of veneer (assuming it's not a 1/64" veneer). Then glue and nail, and when it's painted the joint will look good. You need to either cut to close tolerances, or leave the flap a little long and sand it smooth after assembly.
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I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Edited 6/8/2005 5:40 pm ET by Ed Hilton
Geniuses think a like Huh? (G) Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Time, time, time look what's become of us..Time is all we have, spend it wisely with fervor..dance for no reason, love with out plans and live without worries..we all can.
If you mean boxing the header for a wider bottom, I will tell you, do not try to miter the edges..it don't fly.
A more acceptable job is just what you have in mind, but instead of a butt joint rabbet the sides and leave a 1/2 thickness of the ply to recieve the bottom.
This leaves a much smaller edge grain to fill and paint.
Often a small ( 1/8") reveal will really help detract from the "crisp corner" transition. It too can be champhered or radiused a bit.
And at all cost avoid the ply with voids, Baltic or Russian or Finnish Birch is now available in 8' lengths.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Time, time, time look what's become of us..
Time is all we have, spend it wisely with fervor..dance for no reason, love with out plans and live without worries..we all can.
I'm talking about the but joints where the 8' plywood strips will be laid end to end. The porch is 50' long. I liked your idea about the rabbits though. I just talked to a sheetrock outfit and they said they do it all the time. As long as rain doesn't directly hit it. Mike.
How tall/wide will the beam be?
BTW - in classic architecture, the column capitol (top cap) is often wider than the width of the beam. Matt
I just talked to a sheetrock outfit and they said they do it all the time.
Must be the same guys who sheetrocked a porch ceiling out this way, even used that wonderful greenboard. It's gonna cost the homeowner close to 4 grand to have it ripped down, plywood installed and PVC beadboard with bed molding installed along the perimeter.
No kidding, the tape is coming off in ribbons, mud still attached. No moisture hits the stuff directly, but the exterior humidity (near the shore) is ruining the ceiling. No drywall outside, period. It's like making a tent out of TP in Seattle. Makes no sense at all.
I never met a tool I didn't like!
"It's like making a tent out of TP in Seattle." Great line! And true, too.The porch ceiling can be done like this: Use 5/8" exterior gypsum sheathing (usually brown in color) for solidity and fire resistance, mesh taped with hot mud, then overlay that with Hardisoffit. Use 316 stainless nails or screws to fasten the Hardi near the ocean. Paint with acrylic primer and topcoats. Greenboard is less than worthless.Bill
MDO
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.