Replies

1. 
   bill_1010 | Jul 18, 2004 08:14pm | #1

   Buy the $150 bosch, its better then the 100 dollar bosch.  FHB did a review on hand held planers this year. Im unsure of the issue.

2. 
   m2akita | Jul 18, 2004 11:02pm | #2

   bosch Bosch BOSCH!!!!!!

   I have two of the bosch, like em both.  Have used the makita...... ok, but like my bosch's a whole lot more.

   -m2akita

3. 
   m2akita | Jul 18, 2004 11:05pm | #3

   Whoooops forgot to ad...!!!!  GET THE MORE EXPENSIVE BOSCH!!!!!!

   http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000067S14/qid=1090181016/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1_etk-tools/103-2222370-1212641?v=glance&s=hi&n=228013

   $138 w/ free shipping at amazon.  Dont get the cheaper bosch!!!

   -m2akita

1. 
   raybrowne | Jul 19, 2004 02:23am | #4

   Not to hijack the thread, but when you guys are using your power planes on the pine six panel doors how do they handle the end grain on the bottoms? I always use handplanes to trim my doors(usually my Stanley 60 low angle block, a smaller one for bifolds) and it's always alittle trickier on those vs. the standard solid core office style doors. Do you switch the orientation of the plane to handle the different types of grain at the ends or do you go straight across the bottom with no tear out? Not aiming to make a switch from the hand planes as I find them fun + quiet but curious, never paid attention when the other guys have the porter cable out to do doors but I'm sure they go straight across regardless of tearout.

   -Ray

1. 
   Shep | Jul 19, 2004 02:35am | #5

    Just like a hand plane, you need to come from both sides to stop breaking out the long grain while planing. Other than that, an elec. plane works great for trimming a small amount off the ends of doors.

     I usually make a short cut from one side, then make a full length cut coming from the other direction. The first cut keeps the grain from splitting out.

      Oh, and my vote is for the $150 Bosch. I had the $100 one and the more expensive model is much, much better.

2. 
   dbanes | Jul 19, 2004 04:05am | #8

   YO! just take your ute knife and score a line on the end of your planing cut then feed super slow over the end...(who's gonna see that tiny little line if it's a microscopic scosch above the bottom?

4. 
   NickNukeEm | Jul 19, 2004 02:46am | #6

   I have the Mak and the expensive Bosch.  I use the Mak like a scrub plane, not really concerned about the nicked blade.  The bosch is for the finer work.  Although the dust chute and have a vac hooked up to it, it's not real convenient during use, especially if you're using it in other than a horizontal orientation.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!
1. 
   Snort | Jul 19, 2004 03:56am | #7

   I am curious as to why anybody uses a planer to trim door bottoms or tops. I have a Porter Cable that I use for the stiles, but I use a circular saw and a shooting board for crosscutting. It only takes one pass if I line it up righ, and no tear out. I do this a lot. What am I missing? Don't worry, we can fix that later!

1. 
   Homewright | Jul 19, 2004 11:35am | #10

   What am I missing?

   Just shootin from the hip here but you're missing the chance to pull out yet another tool to get your feet tangled in the cord then avoid stepping on the rest of the day after you shaved 1/4" with numerous passes while your saw would have done the same with one and a score with your knife.  Of course that dang angle makes you adjust the saw so maybe that's where the time goes...  I've always done it your way too and never had a problem.  To each his/her own...  Maybe I'm missing out too...lol

2. 
   mdresimprov | Jul 19, 2004 01:56pm | #11

   For me if its more than 1/8".... skillsaw and clamped straight edge. Less than 1/8" its the Bosch planer. Besides I can't work properly until every tool is out of the truck!

   MES

3. 
   Shep | Jul 19, 2004 09:38pm | #13

     I do it both ways.

    Sometimes I just like to get rid of the saw marks on the top and bottom of the doors, particularly on exterior doors. I could be wrong, but it just seems that a planed surface is easier to paint and will absorb less moisture.

     Or, I could just be getting carried away again.

1. 
   Snort | Jul 20, 2004 01:59am | #14

   I'm glad I asked. Smoother does make sense. I'll try it...now how do you get the painter to do the tops and bottoms? Don't worry, we can fix that later!

1. 
   Shep | Jul 20, 2004 03:56am | #17

   The only effective way I know is to " encourage " the painter with a cattle prod.

2. 
   UncleDunc | Jul 20, 2004 12:55pm | #18

   >> ... how do you get the painter to do the tops and bottoms?

   How do you make a hormone?

   Don't pay her.

3. 
   billyg | Jul 24, 2004 06:25am | #19

   >> ... how do you get the painter to do the tops and bottoms? <<

   Tell them NOT to paint them.  LOL.

   Billy

4. 
   Sphere | Jul 24, 2004 10:18pm | #21

   just do what I do, tape a beltsander belt to the threshold, and open an close the door all day..perfect fit. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

5. 
   USAnigel | Jul 19, 2004 05:05am | #9

   I have the bosch came with angle guide (needed tweaking for 90 degrees) might need wrap of electrical tape to make the vac hose stay in. Works great uses the same blades as the Dewalt. Next time your at the dewalt service center pickup some discounted carbide blades.

6. 
   csnow | Jul 19, 2004 05:03pm | #12

   Setting the blades on the Makita is difficult, where it's easy on the Bosch.  Bosch has 'either side' dust ejection nozzle on both models with vacuum attachment.  You can actually setup a vacuum attachment on the Makita with a little creativity.  Expensive Bosch has the nice fence.

   I would get the Bosch just for the easy blade changes alone.  Blades do cost more though.  The cheap Bosch has a stamped metal base plate which gave me pause, but it tested flat.  If you do not need the fancy fence, the cheaper Bosch is a very good deal, particularly the reconditioned ones.

   Regardless of what you buy, test for flatness right away, in case you got a bad one.

1. 
   m2akita | Jul 20, 2004 03:54am | #16

   What type of blades do you have in yours??  My bosch (model 3296) takes the disposable two sided blades.  I think I could get a pack of 2 for about $9.00 at Lowes.  Id call that pretty cheap.  Knick a blade ( not that I have ever done that ...ha ha heh eh...crap), just flip it around and go right ahead planing.

   m2akita

7. 
   Sasquatch | Jul 20, 2004 03:03am | #15

   I'd realy like to have the Bosch for all-around work.  The Makita was second on my list.  I ended up buying the DeWalt because of its reputation as a workhorse for framing applications.  It is really great there as long as you don't share it with anyone.  Once you have one, everyone will want to borrow it.  I have been doing remodeling lately and  the DeWalt has been good, but I have used it very carefully.  I will be using it on a door tomorrow and expect it will be just fine.

   Les Barrett Quality Construction
8. 
   reinvent | Jul 24, 2004 05:15pm | #20

   Get the better 1594k bosch. And get it reconditioned,alot cheeaper that way. See the link.