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Makita Table Saw modification

| Posted in Tools for Home Building on February 15, 2003 07:44am

I have an old Makita 8 1/4″ table saw, model #2708 that is in very good shape. I like the portability of it and do not want to get rid of it.  What tricks or changes has anyone done to modify the blade height adjusting knob to make it work faster?

Woodie

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Replies

  1. m2akita | Feb 15, 2003 09:51pm | #1

    Good question!!  Ive wondered about pulling off the that plastic handle and chucking the rod end into a cordless drill.

    -M2akita

  2. don26299 | Feb 16, 2003 02:09am | #2

    Woodie, The guy I work with and I each have one.  You have plenty of time to think every time you raise and lower the blade.  So far the only thing I've DONE is lubricate that threaded rod with Triflo or Slick 50 which is such an improvement my mind wanders to other things.  Don't forget the tip of taking the thing apart and popping the seals out of those sealed Makita bearings for extending the life (especially the bearing by the brushes).

  3. RBJEnterprises | Feb 17, 2003 10:58pm | #3

    When you tear it apart to clean off the height adjusting screw, replace the steel thrust washer with a brass one or try and fit a brass/teflon seti in there. It wil be like new.

  4. saulgood | Mar 02, 2003 03:18am | #4

    I think I've got the same model - I've used it for years and am very happy with it, but early on I did make these changes from stock: 1. Blade height adjustment knob - that had to go (way too slow!). Punch out the pin on the shaft, the one that holds the knob on, and save it for re-use (if you lose it, though, you can get another at any good hardware store). Then put a "wheel" type handle on - I think I got one at Orchard Supply. It actually attached with a set screw. use as big a wheel as you can that won't interfere with the other functions of the saw.   2. Many people buy aftermarket stands for their saw. The one for the makita works great, and the fence is better than the stock fence. But because of the whole portability issue, I chose to instead install some home made plywood feet which bolt right to the mounting holes. They stick out just a little bit to widen the base, and they have rubber tire tread scraps for grip.  This keeps it from sliding on any surface, and it won't ever tip over, either.  3. For some reason, at some point the brake for the fence fell apart, and I had to replace some  of the parts. Now I've got a long threaded rod running through the middle, with a carriage bolt coupled to the far end and a washer and nut on the near end to pinch the brake. to  tighten and loosen the nut, I've actually got a  box wrench, the kind you use to adjust the distributor on your car. It stays on th nut at all times, except of course when I'm actually making a cut, because it would get in the way. to set this up, I just have the threaded rod extend through the washer, nut and wrench with another washer and nut behind to sandwich the  wrench loosely in place. This way, the wrench hangs straight down next to the tightening nut where it's out of the way, but is easily brought into use. I'm telling you all of this because I set this up once on the job with what I had around, but it actually works great. I figure that whatever happened to the original equipment could happen to you.  4. on that same note: the safety button which allows you to start the saw is made of cheap plastic. when mine broke off one day, I was forced to poke a nail through  the hole to release the trigger. Well, this was okay for a couple of cuts, but when I got home I had to do something that would be more convenient. Instead of ordering the same cheesey part again from Makita, I made my own using a piece of a hacksaw blade and some pop-rivets. I bent the blade into a lazy "Z" shape (like a "Z" leaning way foreward), so that when I riveted the end twice to the body of the saw, the other end hovered just off the casing, right over the hole for the old safety button. I used another long pop rivet through this end to penetrate the body and release the switch. Now I have a simple, spring loaded button which stays out (saw switch locked) until I push it in - same as before.

    I also put a better indicator on the miter adjuster, it rides closer to the body and has corresponding marks (I made this from scrap metal). Then I reset the factory miter stops at 90 and 45 degrees to make sure the blade stopped at vertical - It didn't, by the way, when I got it. You should check yours too.

     Saul

  5. kredfish | Jun 03, 2015 07:24am | #5

    Elevation knob replacement Makita 2708

    Saul:

    What size wheel did you use to replace the elevation knob?  I was wondering how big you can go on this replacement before it gets in the way of functionality?

    Many thanks!

    kredfish

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