Take a look at the attached pipedream, and comment, please.
House has stone-paved terraces, under roof, protected additionally with 42″ roof overhangs beyond terrace edges.
My concern is isolation of the wood frame construction, from the adjacent masonry. See in the pic how a concrete slab, with stonework bearing atop, is up against the framed and sheathed wall of the house.
Will a couple layers of 30# felt give us enough moisture protection here?
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I don't see why not.
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I would use a treated rim joist and treated sheathing below grade covered with a layer of ice and water barrier. I know a couple of cases where I didn't do this about twenty years ago and every time I see these buildings I wonder when I am going to get a call to come fix them. If they last another twenty years I won't worry about them any more.
I don't like it, even with a treated sill plate, rim joits and siding.
Water may get in there. With PT and a water barrier, probably not, but why take the chance And the odds will increase over time.
When enough gets in there, it will get to where it can do damamge. Either rot of the framing above, or mold.
"It is as hard for the good to suspect evil, as it is for the bad to suspect good."
-- Marcus Tullius Cicero, statesman, orator, writer (106-43 BCE)
Edited 7/11/2004 11:58 am ET by Bob Walker
Maybe you are seeing something I don't. It is not a close up detail, but if a few drops of water penetrated the stone face and hit the paper, it would run down to the precast shelf, which is lower than any wood, and then bleed out into the compacted fill under the slab which would carry it to the perimeter drain. It would have to be flood conditoins - not just a little wind driven rain, to make enuf water to back up ocver the precast foundation lip and wet the wood - IMO
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I'm thinking long term and "unlikely but possible."
Water getting between the slab and the foundation might seep between the slab footer and foundation, and then into the back fill, but it would just as easily (maybe more easily?) seep between the foundation and the sill plate.
(In the attachment, the light blue arrows are potential sources of water penetration, the red is the area where water could accumulate, the yellow arrow one possible path for the water to escape, and the dark blue arrows another possible path.)
If everything was perfectly detailed and done without error, and there is no heave of the slab somewhere down the road (and nobody sets a water sprinkler to spray against that part of the house, which is not uncommon), then we'd probably be OK.
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But why take the chance?
I see a lot of brick veneer houses in my area with no weep holes, and even no PT sills) and no signs of problems.
But, every now again, maybe 4-5 times a year, I see significant problems with rot, decay and mold in the sill plate and box ends apparently resulting from the failure to include weep holes.
The other concern I have is the uncertainty of longevity of the water shield materials with the relatively new, and already known to be more corrosive, chemicals in PT lumber.
"It is as hard for the good to suspect evil, as it is for the bad to suspect good."
-- Marcus Tullius Cicero, statesman, orator, writer (106-43 BCE)
Edited 7/11/2004 2:54 pm ET by Bob Walker
OK, so supposing allowing for the worst, you could run ice and water shield to lay out over the horizontal run of the bricklip and on up the framed, sheathed wall for one width and go the rest of the way up with 30#
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And how long will that last? How will it respond to the new chemicals used in PT?
I'm not trying to argue here, I just think it is a bad design detail where water can be trapped and saturate a portion of the structure because of the uncertainty involved.
"It is as hard for the good to suspect evil, as it is for the bad to suspect good."
-- Marcus Tullius Cicero, statesman, orator, writer (106-43 BCE)