May not be Smart but it sure would be EZ
I’ve got a 7 1/4″ saw dedicated to the EZ Smart system. I LOVE the EZ Smart system (very appropriately named) but I have two problems I’m trying to solve on this setup.
An 8 1/4″ saw is probably the best answer for the first problem, but before I buy yet another right blade saw, let me float this brainstorm out there.
Here’s my dilemma:
1st, with the base and guide in place, the 7 1/4″ Rigid won’t plunge deep enough to cut all the way through a 2x – it’s about 1/8″ shy. That is a real disappointment because I’ve never seen a better system for taking the crown out of a proud piece of wood, and I’ve never seen prouder pieces of wood than the average 2X on my projects lately. I also have some 1 3/4″ solid doors I want to do a little surgery on. I need a deeper cut!
2nd, the guard on the saw gets in the way often enough to annoy me. I find myself pinning it back quite often. Pinning a guard is, IMHO one of the most dangerous things you can do on a saw. It’s easy to forget that the guard you always rely on is not doing its job at the moment. I detest this common practice with all my heart, even though I find it a necessary evil. An 8 1/4″ saw will probably still need it’s guard pinned for the majority of plunge cuts on the guide system.
So here’s where all of this is leading. I almost hate to say this publicly because I wouldn’t recommend this stunt for anyone without a lot of saw experience – heck, I’m not sure I want to try it yet!
Still, here goes…
I think it’s actually far safer to remove a guard entirely if you have to pin it back often because you know it’s not there. Especially if the saw is locked to a guide system every time it gets used.
I also noticed that, with the guard removed, there is plenty of room for an 8 1/4″ 40 tooth blade in there.
I think it might just work! What-da-ya think?
Replies
I have no idea what an EZ smart system is.
But I'd find a different way to do things than pin a guard back, regardless.
Sorry Kevin, I think yer asking for stitches, or worse.
Either get a larger saw, or change your plan accordingly...removing the guard entirely is just not too schmarrt.
my buck fifty of advise.........
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Let behind the eyes, that which one talks"
Rumi....
Ron,
Watch the spelling . . . you wrote "regardless"
I think you meant "be-guardless"
; ) Greg
An 8 1/4" saw will probably still need it's guard pinned for the majority of plunge cuts on the guide system.
How probable is the word 'probably' here?
Can you find out for sure and maybe play it safe?
But then again a solely dedicated saw locked to a system becomes a different tool in it's own right and you can take it from there.
But then again a solely dedicated saw locked to a system becomes a different tool in it's own right and you can take it from there.
thats what im thinking
one of the more effective solutions, if not one of the cheaper, would be to invest in a Festool circular saw. their standard mode of operation is to plunge cut from within a full guard. check them out at http://www.festoolusa.com i've seen them demo'd at shows-they look pretty slick.
m
Thank you but that is definitely not the cheap solution. Festool is nice but I'm afraid they will have to pry my EZ Smart system from my cold dead fingers.
I can put my hands on an 8 1/4" saw for under $150. The Festool saw alone is more than twice that number.
Yeah, kinda like a mini woodmill ripper.
Before everyone gets there undies knotted here I imagine you could design some kind of semi-functional guard to cover the whole arm of a chainsaw if one wanted to also.
be creative
Edited 1/28/2005 4:31 pm ET by rez
Build yourself a shootboard, and sell that thing on ebay.
I can cut doors with my 7 1/4".
Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
Yes, I can too and my shooting board even works with my left blade saw. It does not however even begin to replace the EZ Smart system. The EZ is so much more than a shooting board.
Ok, let me clarify...
There are several ways to make the cuts I need to make with and without the guide. Heck - the easiest solution is to just clamp the EZ Smart to the wood and use it as a straight edge for my left blade saw. I've done that several times in fact and it worked pretty well.
In fact let me just throw in a plug here, the EZ Smart guide is the most rigid and true straight edge I've ever used. I clamped together a lazer straight 15' edge to check my floor for low spots with it the other day. It's not going on the auction block and that's final!
That's not the issue - I'm exploring ways to make the guide system even better for me and the way I work. I think I can do that safely with what I have.
Safely is the key...
Anyone who's been reading my comments on saws here over the years knows good and well how annal I am about safe saws. After using the system I think I would be as comfortable using a guardless saw on the EZ Smart as I am using a guardless table saw. In either case, a guard is a good, safe thing to have as a defense but a guard that gets in your way can be more dangerous than no guard at all.
Man, I can't believe I'm making this argument but the fact is that it's a lot more difficult to make a saw unsafe with the EZ Smart system. I'm thinking I can do the modification with very little risk.
Listen to the little voice in your head. Buy a larger saw.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Kevin, don't do it.
I just receive (today) the 8-1/4 saws from Bosch.
What about if someone else use your saw and have an accident? Or if you need a quick cut without the EZ? It will only take few minutes to modified the lever on the guard in order to work better. I will stop over the Borg and take a look at the Ridgid saw.
I don't open the box from the Bosch saws but I think they have a nice lever to retract the saw guard with your left hand.
About the depth of cut with the 7 1/4" saw. You can increase the depth to cut 1 3/4" and still have a clean cut if you use the Ez as an edge guide and you pop in the flat antichip insert. (AC-1)
It will be ok for the thick doors but not EZ with narrow and thick boards.
Removing the guard is not an option. Making the guard to work EZ ...give me 2-3 days.
ps. You just can't leave your left blade saw alone? But tell me. Can you use the left bladed saw with the square?
Thanks for the valuable feedback.
YCF Dino
LOL - Something told me I wasn't going to get a ringing endorsement from you on this one.
What about if someone else use your saw and have an accident? Or if you need a quick cut without the EZ?
Not gonna happen. I'm a one man dance and I don't plan on sharing my new toy. And you know good and well what saw I'm reaching for if I need a quick cut without the EZ... :-)>
ps. You just can't leave your left blade saw alone? But tell me. Can you use the left bladed saw with the square?
Sure! The same way I'm currently cutting 2X's. He, he, he...
Gotta agree with you on the EZ guide. Got mine from an auction over at Quitin' Time a while back and really like it. Great for cutting tapers or cutting sheet goods with just one person. I got the cut table too, and it works great.
Used to have to set up an outfeed table and side supports on my portable table saw and/or get someone to give me a hand. Now I can throw the sheet on the EZ cut table, clamp the guide to my marks and make the cut. No math involved and no one to catch the rip for me.
Me likey my EZ guide.
Haven't tried the router attachment yet, but looks like it will be very handy also
Edited 1/29/2005 3:40 am ET by Shoeman
Forgot to mention, Yeah I also am thinking of getting an 8.25" saw for cutting thicker stock. I am using my 7.25" PC right now and it works good for sheet goods just not for doors and 2x
Also, don't know if you got one yet, but, a shotgun case (like Mike Smith has in his picture) is really handy for storing the guide. I really like the Contico case I got. Searched a few sporting good stores and had trouble finding one wide and LONG enough. Someone suggested Wal Mart and they had the Contico which is the perfect size and TUFF - oh yeah cheap too $22
View Image
Edited 1/29/2005 2:46 am ET by Shoeman
Gee were the guns included? Someone sees you bring those to work and they are definetly Not gona try and steal your tools!
i wonder if your Contico is the same brand i got.....
my two guides fit in with about 1/4" to spare on the ends
here's yours......View Image
and .. here's mine.. but i don't remember the brand..
View Image
obviously, they are not the same case.... i wonder how your's works with the guides installed
at $22.... that's one great bargain...Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike, yeah not the same. Think I saw yours at one of the sporting goods stores and was thinking it might not be quite big enough. Kinda a plastic case that has a little flex to it?
This Contico case I bought is a little longer and TUFF - ridgid structural foam or whatever that stuff is they make the tool boxes out of.
I'll try to post a picture soon.
Glad I saw the thread with you and somone else discussing using these cases for the guides - they work
Shoe-
What size length of Contico case is the one you are using?
be brief.
52"
Thanks
was brief
we try to please - have I been getting a bit long winded in my recent posts?
ha
No, I was originally making ref to my direct consise question being so abrupt.
How much length is there left in the case after the EZ is loaded in there?
not much - I am trying to attach a photo - but the cyber gods are not with me this evening
Was wondering if it was more than in MikeSmith's pic of his?
Looked pretty tight.
Contico CaseView Image
Edited 1/30/2005 10:14 pm ET by Shoeman
Edited 1/30/2005 10:15 pm ET by Shoeman
Yes, that's bigger than the other.
Walmart here I come.
I was going to give you inside and outside dimensions, but decided to follow your request to be breif
edited to help get GWA's mind out of my pants
Edited 1/31/2005 12:43 pm ET by Shoeman
Look guys - The pencil and gift exchanges were one thing, but lets not start getting into brief requests alright?
K. Just one time. With a small note. Not recomended for Dieselbig.
View Image
Looks nice - I chose structural foam over the aluminum when considering dents, but, I still would like to see a picture of that case opened up with a guide system in it
Think I like the strap idea also, if it got in the way more than it was used it could always be removed
Ya, I almost drove to walmart to get that guncase for the EZ system but decided to wait and see what Dino was going to come up with, thinking of straps inside and places for accessories.
Hi Rez. Nothing like the Wallmart for $20.00
For now the one that we carry is ....not recommended for the breaktimers.
The Contico case is made strong and you just can't go wrong with it.
Buy one before they race the price. And keep it secret.
YCF Dino
tomorrow's road trip is getting a case for my EZ.
especially since Dino says the Contico is good.
just wait til the guys see me getting out of my van with a shot gun case.
He, he, he... Just tell them you brought your 12 ga finish nailer in case you have to re-do any of their work.
OK OK What is that in post 53313.92.
I went to Wally world today and no Contico anywhere.
But did find a case that looked a lot like that case in yer pic made of aluminum and was called a gun safe not a gun case.
Named something Mossland or Mossyland. Interior length at 52 1/2 inches."Live Free, not Die"
Razz. I think Wallmart is the exclusive seller for the Contico cases in US.
The one on the link is NOT for the job site. I'm working to get few cases from PLANO. But your best bet is Wallmart or Sports authority?
Any test drive yet?
No, been playing the role of grunt in a bath remodel and dreaming of warm weather instead.
be a convertible"Live Free, not Die"
be a convertible
A fiat Pinifarina.
Wally World here is closing them out for $13
Go ahead. Hurt me.
be ugly
"Live Free, not Die"
Edited 2/9/2005 10:01 am ET by razz
You ought to go buy a bunch.
They are not on Walmart's web site so sounds like no more availability.
be double your pleasure, double your funchew Contico"Live Free, not Die"
You wanna pay the shipping on one to Ohio?
I thought about buying them out and then thought - what the hell am I gonna do with all those cases?
Seriously, you if you want one, I could ship it to you - no idea what it would cost
Nah, but thanks.
I'm going to work on the aluminum gunsafe I saw there the other day. 52 1/2" inside length. Got a keyed lock. oooh! Marked down to $49.
A clerk in the next section over gave me the sport manager's name and work hours telling me to come in and see him.
It's the last one I could see and sitting on the floor, noticed a half inch scratch on the bottom of the case and the cardboard display around the handle was dented up.
be time to go in for the kill:o)
"Live Free, not Die"
Edited 2/9/2005 11:07 am ET by razz
Give to me. Buy them all. Then we sell it to Razz another one soon.
Oops, too late.
Had to prove a $25 date could still get a smile.
Just got back from wallyworld. Place is being added on to become a 24hr supercenter. Stuffs tore up in there.
All the ambience of a thrift store complete with smells.
None the less I leaned into the wind to complete my mission and trudged on.
There it was, the object of my affection, just as I had left her the night before. The last one sitting alone on the floor, wrinkles on her brow.
A talk with a worker, an offer, his call to a desk.
Another talk to a worker, another call to a desk.
And moments later she was mine, ushered out the door and finally sitting beside me in the truck on the way home.
View Image
Aluminum shell with locks. $25 plus tax.
Don't ask me about the stop at Lowes for the 'looksee what's discounted' cause it ain't unloaded out of the bed of the truck yet. Sometimes amazing what $50 will buy.
Funny how small lives are so easily pacified.
be time for Ouzo."Live Free, not Die"
Aluminum shell with locks. $25 plus tax.
You wish it was aluminum. I bought few "aluminum cases" just in case and I thought I was paying for aluminum. When I open the box I can't find any aluminum on the case. So i call the Co. and ask them where is the beef?
But Sir.Don't you read the description? This is an "aluminum style case"
And as dieselpig said once: Case is closed.
Wait. This is getting funny now. I'm stock with 20 "Aluminum style" cases and I have to sell them. And here it is.( From the website)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
High comfort MEZZI designed shoulder strap
EVA interlocking high density foam
Chromed handle and corners
New heavy duty handle design with anti-slip grip
Dual three digit combination locks
Dual draw-catch key locks with anti-pry tabs
Weather resistant.
This case is not designed for heavy duty use. AKA...Don't toss it in the back of your truck. It is designed to keep all EZ Smart Guide system parts organized.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
At least I don't mention the "aluminum style case". And the funny thing is that they sell.
Time for ouzo? Oh yes!!!
Edited 2/9/2005 6:32 pm ET by YCFriend
Hey, I just looked at those on the net!
But you didn't say anything about the plastic feet on the bottom. Must be the cheap ones, aye? bwaa!
ok, Let's see...This one is... Mossy Oak embossed on the top of the case.
Holds two scoped rifles. Triple layer foam. 4 hinges, two locks. Rubber grip handle. Tongue and groove lid. Reinforced Corners.
Hmm, sure wants to dent like aluminum. I think a molded plastic case would be better. Ya, a few trips in the truck and it'll look like...so now I need a gig bag for my case.
But it will look cool when I pull it out on site and make the customer think I know what I'm doing. 8-O
It'll work. I'll cut the foam to fit when it comes attachment time. The table thing is next.
Yes, speaking of tables...
be Ouzo on a table"Live Free, not Die"
Funny how carpenters use gun racks to hold levels, amo casses to hold screws, and now riffle casses to hold saw guides, lazers for leveling, and .22 to drive nails into concrete and steel.
All we need now is some carhart camo's and a battalion # and its off to fight some stupid war.
Yes, and the battle will be against the big manufacturers who no longer can supply a decent case for the tool you just spent a hunk of money for.
I mean what is so rough about supplying a plastic case for your $150-200 dollar worm drive, router, or air nailer?
be 'you are a number. Do not expect anything more"Live Free, not Die"
my ez guide arrived last nite.now have to figure out how to put it togetheralso thinking of getting a new blade for the saw so can start out nice and sharp.thinking of taking one side of the plastic edge guides off so I can use it as a straitedge guide for my router (don't want to buy the router attachment)went to wally world but the one i went to didn't have the contico case.
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
If my expectations are correct I'm betting you'll be getting the router attachment before you're all done and through.
be a heh heh"Live Free, not Die"
so, been spending some time with my new toy, er, tool.figuring out what i want to do. how to use it etchave a couple questions.first, what's the size on the allen screws?, i know i can figure it out, but easier to ask. second, i know you provide some strong double sided tape for permanent attachment. if i wanted to do tempory attacment using like the 3m command strip double tape, how "safe" am i? i know it won't be like what you provide, but when i use the system i will likely only make 5 or 6 cuts. and i won't use it that often. know i can leave the base on. but i have trouble fitting it in the case already.was very sceptable about this at first, even tho i haven't used it yet or attached the two sections together but looks good
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
Hi Bob.
The Development dept.on breaktime have all the answers.
Mike Smith modified his case in order for the saw to fit.
The sourcing dept. Shoemen and Paulb found the cases for the right price.
And the testing dept. GWA. (Kevin) can tell us all about the Right blade saws. I think he have the most right bladed saws
The set screws are 5/16 SS. And use some Teflon tape so they don't come lose.
If you use the permanent tape, the only way to remove it is with the help of goof-off.
And about the router kit. You don't need it. you can slide off the edge and use the Ez as an edge guide or if you need an 8" level just tape small level .
YCF Dino
Dino-
Mike Smith modified his case in order for the saw to fit.
Can you elaborate on that?
be elaborate"Live Free, not Die"
Hi Razz.
MS post few pictures before. If you have the Porter Cable case (double wall)
You can remove a section from one wall in order for the smart base to fit.
no..... dino is talking about the case i carry my PC saw in.. it didn't fit in the case with the new EZ base attached..
so i cut two slits and now it fits again
my 50" guides ( both of them ) fit fine in the gun caseMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Oh, I see.
I was trying to visualize an attached saw to the rail in a gun case.
be creativebwaa!"Live Free, not Die"
if i was abig time user i might a agreebut I don't think that i will use it often enough.but i'm real happy with just having a 100" straight edge that i can brake down
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
Bob... Why not drill for the T nuts in the kit? I'd sure be nervous trusting a temporary tape to hold a circ saw...
Now about the router guide... shall I tell you how sweet it is? ;) Just get the plastic ready...
whenever I drill something like that I'm alway off just a hair, enough that that the whole thing is off.I'll likely do the permanent rather than drillre: router. as i think i said earlier. I have no doybt how sweet a tool it is. just can't justify for the amount i'd use it. heck, justifing the guide was that it's a valentine present.rather than drop $100 on the router gude, I'd get another saw.
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
I have a bad track record for making the same kind of mistake Bob. I had thought about drilling mine, and was planning to use strong, but not permanent double stick to get everything aligned and then do the drilling.
I'll let you alone on the router guide...for now ;)
But it IS incredibly sweet...
Really...
Paul,
Earlier did I hear you say you did something that damaged one side of the rail or was that someone else?
What happened?
be in caution"Live Free, not Die"
It was so stupid I'm just not going to admit to it...but suffice it to say the saw took a bite out of the edge of the rail. Don't tell Dino, he'll drum me out of the Eureka Corps.
ROAR!
I thought that might have been it.
I'm trying to make sure I don't do it.
I've been known to be invoved in things of that nature before.:o)
be cutting one
"Live Free, not Die"
Edited 2/10/2005 4:23 pm ET by razz
Ok, fess up... did the guard have anything to do with it?
I plead the Fifth...or plead for a Fifth... your choice...
get a hardshell guitar case..the rectangular flat ones for basses..rip out the guts fill with eggcrate foam.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Restoring, Remodeling, Reclaiming The Quality..
The table is nice. Have you seen the new version Dino came up with? Very slick!
Here's a sneak peak http://www.eurekazone.com/images/gallery/plexiglassshop.html
I'll probably replace my folding table leg version with the new one when it hits the market.
No, I hadn't seen that yet - looks like there is something else I need, Damn You
Edited 1/29/2005 9:42 am ET by Shoeman
Pinning a guard is, IMHO one of the most dangerous things you can do on a saw
Golden....we agree!
I've worked without a guard for 27 out of my 29 years. I quit pinning them back about ten years ago when I simply started removing them at their core.
During the times that I tried to make a guard work for me, I had numerous instances where it was jammed open, got hung up, got entangled with slivers. There were so many instances where I also had to pin it back and would forget that it was shimmed "temporarily" and near disasters almost occurred.
Now, my entire being understands that the blade is open and it must be respected...kinda the same mindset that all you guys with table saws understand.
I don't mind the preaches coming out of the woodwork to chastise me, but I'm only going to listen to those who have NEVER shimmed their guards back a single time. If you've shimmed it for one second, I don't want to hear a word from you! Also, if you've ever operated a table saw without a full guard and kickback device..them save your preachin' for someone else.
blue
Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
The only guy I ever knew that was killed by a saw, was using a circular saw with the guard pinned. Whether it was a lapse of concentration or a kick back, I don't know. The saw hit the inside of his thigh, cut an artery and he bled to death. Sorry for the preaching, Blue, but we kind of like your wackyness around here.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hammer, have you ever ran a saw with the guard pinned back? Have you ever worked on a table saw without a guard?
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
No, I've only pulled the guard back on angle cuts and plunges. I let go once the cut is started. I've been around long enough to have seen too many accidents with pinned or removed guards. Also from blades set deeper than they need to be. Eventually someone forgets, sets the saw down and cuts something. I'm a former safety instructor, and a Liason to my states Department of Labor, working on a safety certificate program to train construction workers. One of my adult woodworking students is an Orthopedic surgeon. The number of circular saw cuts he has seen is very convincing.Table saws are a totally different tool. There are some procedures that cannot be done with the guard in place. You aren't comparing apples to apples with your argument. Perhaps you haven't seen a saw turn on by itself due to a faulty trigger. Maybe you haven't been in a situation where things don't go exactly as you planned. Perhaps you are just smarter and always in control of circumstances that have hurt so many others. All I can do is try to make you and others aware of how quickly accidents happen. I can also tell you from personal experience, when an accident does happen, you get real smart right away. You instantly realize just how stupid you were.There is no project, stick of wood or anything else that is worth the risk of breaking basic safety rules. I hope you will take my words to heart, in the spirit they are given. I'm very lucky that I'm still able to do the things I love to do with my hands and fingers. Don't let an accident ruin your life just to expedite a cut in a piece of plywood.While I'm on my pulpit, I throw out another safety tip to those that will listen. When using a miter saw, leave the blade down until it stops. There, that should raise some feathers. It's in the manual, read it and believe.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Table saws are a totally different tool. There are some procedures that cannot be done with the guard in place.
Well, since you basically violated a safety rule, you don't have any room to preach to me and I will not listen.
Whatever that procedure is that cannot be done without the guard, shouldn't be done. End of subject.
If you're allowed to compromise safety procedures when you see fit, so am I.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Here are some 7 1/2" bladeshttp://www.contractorstools.com/portercablesaws.htmlhttp://www.tools-plus.com/abrasives-blades--circular-saw-blades--7-1-2--circular-saw-blades.html
Thanks, I'll check the clearance on the guard. The 7 1/2" 40 tooth Makita blade may just be the ticket.
Just what advantage does this thing ahve over a shootboard?Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
I'm here, so I'll weigh in...all my shooting boards seem to to end up at least fat 1/16th from the blade, not so with the ez. Seems the plastic flanges stay dead on. And, no tearout crosscutting veneered doors.Totally straight rip on an 8' panel...Clean rips, even with a cheap blade...Cool clamping system...Breaks down to fit in my short bed truck...I've ripped down assembled jambs on pre-hung doors. Paid for itself right there...It's one of those tools that makes yer work better<G> Don't worry, we can fix that later!
well....since i've used shooter boards for twenty years... 30" 48" 96" , and straight edges..
here's one..
if you have a shooter board.... you can make a cut with the blade set at 90 deg... but if you change to a bevel, you destroy the shooter board..
with EZ.. you use one side for 90 deg. cuts and the other side for bevel cuts
another: with a shooter board , you're limited to the length of the board
with EZ, you can link 50" guides to as long as you want.. it's foolproof, and quick
with shooter boards you have to figure out how to clamp it..
with EZ... the clamps ( two) are easily adjustable , can clamp thick stock... you can set them anypplace you want
because of the clamp and the true flatness of the EZ, you can rip strips off a 3/4 x 3/4 .. if you wanted to , you could rip your own edge band
go to the EZ site.. they've got photo essays of about 10 different operations
i've made tapered columns , using straight edges, shooter boards, taper jigs on my table saw.. you name it... this makes child's play out of it
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I still don't buy it.
I've got table saws, jointers, do anything you mentioned.
Tapered columns? Cut any taper you want with a shootboard or straight edge.
Know how to cut a taper on a jointer?Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
to each his own....
sounds like you got a shop... i don't .. my customers locations are my shopMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
My shop is 150 miles away from work, so I do almost everything on site, like you do.
I wish that somebody would make a decent portable bandsaw.Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
yup... i certainly ain't luggin that 14" boat anchor around..
i'll tell you ,mike....
as far as tools go..
i started with a handsaw, a black & decker skill saw with a 1 foot cord, a bit & brace , hammer & chisel, and a tri-square
over the years it slowly dawned on me... tools are cheap.. labor is expensive..
any tool that will increase our skill level or decrease our labor time is going to get my attention and once i'vbe bought it, it's paid for... not like meeting a payroll every week
have you thought about setting up your shop in a trailer ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I have a 6x12 tool trailer, Mike. Can't use it around here. Most of the work we do is inside the beltway. Can't park on the street, and people don't want it in their yards. I'll probably sell it next spring.
Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
There is la ton of good stuff on that web site. Did you pick up on the tip about adding a third connector at the joint? http://www.eurekazone.org/products/smartconnector.html
I was surprised at how much more rigid the connection is with the third connector. Particularly when you pick it up from the top in the middle.
I hung a couple of loops from the ceiling over my table to suspend the guide while I position materials. Their's no perceptable sag at the joint when it's suspended flat from both ends like that.
I think the ultimate test of the anti chip is melamine. I ripped several sheets today with no tearout , not even on the offcut. It looked like I cut it with a lazer. In fact, I was surprised to discover that the factory edges were actually much rougher than my circular saw cuts with a $15.95 balde. Try that with a shooter board and let me know how the offcut side turns out.
Who cares about the off cut?
I got a 100" aluminum straight edge that I paid $50.'s for.
I keep it hangin' on the wall of my shop to remind me to think twice before buyin' somethin' I just have to have.
Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
Edited 1/29/2005 10:31 pm ET by Mike Rooney
Well, I'd just as soon use those eight foot long by 2 foot wide offcuts on the other side of my cabinet, but then I'm tight like that.
You're not going to get tear-out on a rip cut.
SHEESH!Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
Sometimes, I think they should change the name of this place to
Virtual HomebuildingMen come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
Cutting MCP...there is no rip or crosscut GRAIN wise, but it'll chip just looking at it funny..I think that's what he means.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"I've..seen all good people turn thier heads, so, satisfied, I am on my way.."They kill prophets for profits"..And, that's...the truth.........phhatt
MCP?
Melamine?
Most tear out occurs on one side. With proper planning most of this can be hidden.
If it is really critical, I cut it oversize and clean it up with a jointer.
I cut most of my sheet goods down with a 7 1/4", 24t Diablo.
Even birch or luan.Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
Yup Melamine Coated Particle board. I would never joint PB on MY jointer..great way to FU the blades almost instantly. Different strokes I guess. When I was in a production display shop, we used a scoring saw for miles of MCP, that's about the best I have seen.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"I've..seen all good people turn thier heads, so, satisfied, I am on my way.."They kill prophets for profits"..And, that's...the truth.........phhatt
Mike.
You're missing the point.
With the Ez you have ZERO chips even in melamine and with a $15.00 blade.
Most tear out occurs on one side. With proper planning most of this can be hidden.
If it is really critical, I cut it oversize and clean it up with a jointer.
If you want to spend some time at your shop in order to justified the need for your shop and your toys ...I understand that. (after 20 years and $750.000.00)But if you like to get the job done EZ Smart and keep the bucks....you have to give up your.. playground. All the money that I made was the last 5-7 years. And only after I give up ...my tablesaw mentality.
Why cut oversize in your shop in order to use a jointer? When you can have the material deliver at the job site and have a better and faster job without have to pack-load and unload the cabinets?
edit. The point is that you don't need a shop -rent-utilities-expensive labors--heavy-dangerous and expensive tools. large trucks and bills.
The Ez is not about the tool. Is about you.
YCF Dino
Edited 1/30/2005 11:08 am ET by YCFriend
I do most of my work on sight.
I was talking about a hand held jointer with cheap replaceable blades.
Very rarely do you need a clean cut on both sides, but if you do, just buzz it with the jointer. Move the fence every now and then so the m. doesn't burn a groove in the knives.Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
even in the jobsite. why waste your time with the hand held jointer? And can you trust your guys to use this technique? Why not have one tool that don't need offset and jointer (time and technique) when you can have the one time deal by ANYONE at your crew?
Then you're free to do something else and look for another job for the EZ and your guys. Don't tell me now that you're still missing the point. If I have the Ez 25 years ago I will have save more than $1.000.000.00 and double my profits over the years. I just hire 2-4 more guys and give them ...the EZ.
My only problem over the years was finding the right help. Now looks like the problem is solved but ...we lost the problem?????
Mike. Is this your full time job? Do you have people working for you?
Help me out here and tell me what is wrong with EZ?
YCF Dino
I am not saying there is anything wrong with your product.
(well, it does seem overengineered and overpriced)
I just don't see where it can do anything I can't already do, or would want to do.
I do wish you the best with your endeavors.Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
I realized just how much Dino's gizmo is worth when I had to rip down a couple of pre-hung exterior door jambs. I'd have never gotten such a clean job with my shooting boards. With a power planer, I'd still be planing. Don't worry, we can fix that later!
I just don't see where it can do anything I can't already do, or would want to do.
I do wish you the best with your endeavors.
Thanks Mike.
YCF Dino
Hi Dino,
Just a little side note........... With all the talk about safety, of which I am certainly an advocate.
I really think you should have your safety glasses on when demonstrating your product ( Website Photos ). Especially when cutting plexi !
On a hill by the harbour
You right about that.
Thanks for pointing that out. Sal was cutting with safety glasses as you can see on the previews picture. I notice that yesterday (the one without the glasses) and today this photo is history... And the practice of cutting without safety glasses)
Thanks again.
YCF dino
Mike-
I recently got a Smart Gude and after using it awhile, wish I'd gotten it long ago.
Per your post, it probably is over-engineered, but I think that's a good thing.
Overpriced- I don't think so. Just figure the amount of labor you've put into making shoot boards over the years. I know I've put in enough time to pay for the SmartGuide several times over. And I'll never have to make another one, or try to adapt the one I have .
Everyone's got to decide what's right for them, but I think Dino's product is well made, reasonably priced, and versatile.
Mike,
When I first met Dino here a while back, I reacted to him, and the EZ Smart, with more skepticism than you, and quite a bit of arrogance if you want to know the truth. I accused him of condescending to men of superior capability and lambasted his product as way over-hyped and incapable of living up to his claims.
I couldn't see how it was anything more than a glorified shooting board and I had plenty of those already. Then I thought about it a little more... Then I researched it a little more... Then I took a look in the mirror and decided I was way too young to be such an old stick in the mud and took a chance on the thirty day money back guarantee.
Guess what? Dino can keep my money and ask for more with each new accessory that comes out. I don't mind swallowing my pride and admitting that the EZ is simply a more efficient and safe way to produce superior cuts with fewer, and less expensive tools. The system is smart, it's safe, it's simple, and it keeps getting better.
It's a nice surprise to get an affordable, versatile tool so eloquently "over-engineered" at such a bargain price now and then.
And customer support...? Every idea, concern or question I've had has been personally addressed by the inventor of the tool himself within hours if not seconds, not with condescension or defensiveness, but with appreciation, acknowledgement and ultimately with real solutions that meet my needs.
Take a look back through this thread. I obviously did not start it to heap praise on this tool. I tend to do that when I discuss it these days because it's won me over in a big way, but I started the thread because I was trying to get a little input on a crazy idea to overcome what I perceive as a weakness in the system - It doesn't cut deeply enough for what I want to do with it.
I'm convinced the product will be better for all of us talking this through, because Dino listens to the user, thinks through their concerns, and addresses them. In my case, it may be as simple as picking up a slightly larger blade size I didn't even know existed, and installing it on a saw I already own.
Did you notice who came up with that idea?
I won't begrudge Dino throwing in a little more hype in the process of addressing a concern. For the most part, I think he backs it up.
You and I both are/were absolutely right that there are a thousand ways to do the same things with other tools...
but then again, a cordless drill can't do anything a corded model wouldn't be able to handle either. It just makes life so much EZ'er.
Gotta agree with ya on that last post GWA. I also was very skeptical of what this Dino guy was doing here pimping this Festool wanna be product.
I have liked the concept for a long time. Have considered the Tru-Grip clamps (have some that I have used up till now for edge guides. Looked hard at the Festool - thought it was a great design and took the concept a little further - too cheap to take the plunge.
Kept looking into the EZ smart at the Eureka Zone website and emailed a few questions off from that site. Kept paying attention here to what guys like Mike Smith were saying about the guides they bought. Finally decided it was time to give it a try when they had a complete system on the Auction Block over at Quitin' Time.
Have been very happy with my purchase. Like you, I am a little bit disappointed that it won't cut 2x stock with my PC saw, but, other than that very happy. Simple, compact, no splintering, no offset to measure, easy, fast, and safe with one man. I think I just need to buy an 8 1/4 saw - waiting to see what Dino has to say about the Bosch he is trying out now.
Yes I too am a converted skeptic of the EZ smart system. Still think Dino is a pimp though - LOL.........kidding
Might move my table saw out of the van,
Shoe
Mike Smith was one of the guys I accused Dino of condescending too.
Mike is a much smarter man than I am, and a far superior carpenter.
That's why Mr. Smith bought his guide a couple of weeks before I bought mine, and why I made a strong mental note of it when I took that look in the mirror.
You remind me of my wife.
I said what I had to say.
You said what you had to say.
And now here you are a day later, repeatin' yerself.Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
LOL - and you just never listen!
Careful now or I'll e-mail your wife and tell her I started a thread titled "May not be Smart but it sure would be EZ" and you said it reminded you of her. <G>
Ok so who sells these things?the euraka site won't connect and only one place shows up ona google as carring it.
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
Try this link
http://www.eurekazone.com/index.html
Good luck,
Shoe
You're right, I'm not.
And here I thought you were missing the whole point.
kevin... i use a PC with my EZ..
i can plunge cut with out pinning the guard... and of course once you have the EZ set over the location.. all you do is plunge... if i were so inclined.. i could close my eyes and do it..
also... teh extra 1/2 the EZ base adds to the shoe actually makes my guard swivel more easily than it does in normal use
you may have a saw with a hanging guard.. .. but the ones i use don't have that problem
in a hundred cuts i never have to pin the guard....
in two hundred cuts, i might have to pin the guard once.. usually some ungodly double bevel....
here's my PC with the EZ base...
View Image
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 1/29/2005 12:38 am ET by Mike Smith
Thanks for the feedback Mike. I bought a Bosh on clearance a few weeks ago to see if I would like it with the guide better than the Rigid- one of those too good to pass deals. I just haven't taken the time to set it up with the base and try it yet.
In fact, this brainstorm really got started when I picked up a couple of 8 1/4" 40 tooth blades on the same clearance table in anticipation of buying the larger Bosh.
I only run into a problem with the Rigid guard when I plunge cut from somewhere in the middle of the guide. That's generally a rare cut so I'm probably exagerating the regularity in my mind. It just seems like I've needed to plunge cut more than usual lately. Pinning the guard probably makes those cuts really stand out in my mind.
I think the PC you are using is the saw I should have purchased to start with. The dust collection would have been nice. I know the guard action on my left blade PC is the best I've ever seen. Does your PC cut all the way through a 2X on the guide?
my 7 1/4 pc will not cut all the way thru a 2x ... it leaves 1/8 just like yours.. but the guard swings back pretty smooth..
most of the time , i flip the piece over & place the guide, and rip the 1/8
most of the time i do not use the clamps... the weight of the guide is plenty to keep it in place
i might be fooling myself in thinking that i don't help the guard get started.. but i do know that it MAY only require a slight nudge ..even on a plunge cut
if i hadn't met Dino at that JLC-Live show.. i'd probably own a big Festool saw & Festool guide and i would have made a big mistakeMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
LOL - that reminds me. I didn't exactly embrace the EZ Smart system or Dino when they first showed up around here. I'd probably do well to shut my mouth and pay attention a little more often.
Spitting out those crow feathers every time I use my new guide is almost as annoying as having to mess with that guard. :-)>
c'mon Kevin - don't be timid...
ya need a new saw, no doubt about it, but 8 1/4"? no way...
View Image
get yursef one of these 16 inch puppies and be ready for fur whadeva comes along...
Ok, now we're talking! What do you think Dino? Will it work with the base?
All Right bladed saws work with the Ez. For the Makita monster you will need two smart bases.
Even the Big foot "baby" monster works on the eZ. You just don't have the benefits of the antichip inserts. ...For now.
K. You the first one to use the sliding square prototype. (before was even done)
You may help us here. The guide is bi-directional and the square is bidirectional.
Can you have use a left bladed saw with it? And the square is something that you need with the system or you can do without?
Help me please because people "think" that I have something against the LB saws.
YCF Dino
Instead of trying to hit the lottery, I'm gonna invent the next "hot" accuracy/ sharpening system.
I bet you could feed the entire 3rd world on the $$$ & time 'woodworkers' spend trying to be more accurate or get thier chisels sharp.
What good is being able to cut wood to 1/1000th of an inch?
If the humidity changes 5% the dimension you spent all that time and $ on is gonna change right along with it!!!
I have a 15 year old(or older) OSB cutting board that I use for everything from building cabinets to trimming doors to cutting back siding on an existing wall.
I sharpen my chisels with a belt sander and a pocket stone most of the time.
And I proud of it!!!
Git 'r dun!!!!
Christmas is coming we aint got time for millionths of an inch!!
this ain't a nuclayor power plant, heck it ain't even a pianny seat, its a house and we gotta move it or lose it!
I'd hate to be standing on a rafter waiting for youse guys to cut me some ply so we can get the roof on!
Cut it and hand it up.
putty will make a carpenter out of the best of us!!
YEEESH! MOWEEEZY!!!!!
Mr T
I can't afford to be affordable anymore
I have a 15 year old(or older) OSB cutting board that I use for everything from building cabinets to trimming doors to cutting back siding on an existing wall.
Hi Mr T.
The Ez is just another cutting board. And if you can go by with your OSB for so long, Imagine how much money and time you will have save if your OSB cutting board was:
1.Extendable -self align with Zero play.
2.Bidirectional with true Zero positioning and cutting line.
3.Antichip on both sides of the blade and with a $10.00 blade that gives you better cuts than a $50.00-100.00 blade.
4.With the ability to cut narrow stock down to 1" with the regular clamps and down to ZERO with the upgrades.
5.With the extreme precision to any tapered or compound cut that you can make a shim from zero to 3/8" 4 or 8 feet long.
6.without the time spend to load and unload the truck with few other tools. And the extra room that you can have in your truck and the rent that you can have save from your shop. Never mind that you can have any of your guys using this Thing without having to look over every time while you are the only one that can cut a filler (freehand) on your tablesaw.
Mr T. I agree with you about the cutting board idea so much that I can't even "start" talking about it. It will take me days to explain all the benefits of the Dead Wood Concept.
You see,... if we have this Thing 15 years ago ... we don't have to spend $5B.yearly on hospital bills or working for our tools, insurance, the lawyers and the marketing genius of the Big boys. Or the spokesman's and the shareholders of an "established" tool maker.
Ditto to your OSB cutting board Mr. T.
YCF Dino
You'd be surprised at the nice straight putty lines you could get with the EZ Guide T! The plastic inserts taper right down to the seam and leave a lazer straight edge. Just lick your finger and smooth it down. It's beautiful! <G>
right with ya Mr. T.....don't know what all these EZsmart guys are building, but I bet it ain't houses.....I use any number of shooting board set-ups...even own a Tru-Grip straitedge (one of their little back-to-back ones too), but 90% of the time it's chalk box & eyeball work around my site...
Edited 2/13/2005 2:35 am ET by JRnBJ
I'm a finish carp- the EZsmart is going to be very useful for me.
a couple of days ago, I had to put a straight edge on some 6/4 oak so I could glue it up
I used my EZ, and while it didn't leave a perfect glue-line rip, it didn't require much work to make those boards fit.
its not a tool for everyone, but it does solve a lot of problems
and I think Dino's trying to sell enough of them so he can get rid of that Fiat and get a real car :)
What's the starting bid for Dino's convertible?"Live Free, not Die"
My CFO screwed up. He don't set aside money for marketing and advertising. And my other CFO (at home) told me ...take this junk out of my driveway.
Razz. The Fiat is one of this "Eureka moments" and is not for sale. But is given away to anyone who can win the Eurekazone challenge. Together with $2000.00 cash and two weeks paid vacation for two.
Look's like I'm stuck with the Fiat or the Fiat is ...stuck with me?
Live Free, not Die" Do you keep coming up with this philosophical one liners? Put them all together and post them. i think the one above is the best so far.
Feel free to correct my spelling. How is that?
CFO?
Current Friend Ouzo?
be a current wizeazz
"Live Free, not Die"
Edited 2/13/2005 10:52 am ET by razz
CFO Razz. You know.
One guy call me one day... Can I please talk to the CEO of the company?
-One moment please.
-Hey guys, what the hell is CEO?
-We don't know.
-What about your CFO?
- Let me see.
-Hey guys, CFO? Ok I know. You don't know that either.
-Sir. we don't know who he is right now. But if you're looking for UFO..We're all here.
Then, he hang up. I hate when that happen. First he waste your time with stupid questions and then he hangs up on you.
had a Fiat years ago
don't need the aggrevation of another one
it was a great car
when it was running
I had one too...a 128 or 124? 4 door, forest fiat green..what a POS..ya talk about RUST...the shocks actually fell out from under it, the frame was rusted thru and thru...what a car.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Restoring, Remodeling, Reclaiming The Quality..
Yea,yea.
My pinifarina drove all the way to N.C. hit a Big Dead Buck on hwy 85 south
Flew over the roof of a trailer and landed like a jet. Yes.that's my Fiat.
I have to tow it back on a U-Haul trailer and fix it. This summer I' will take my Fiat for the Second Grand Fiat Tour. We just can't wait for summer time.
mine was a Fiat Strada- a '78, I think. Looked kinda like a Ply. Horizon.
required 2 head gaskets while we were driving it, and was due for a 3rd when we got rid of it-all in less than 80k miles
and we couldn't run the AC in the summer or it would overheat, unless we were driving steady highway speeds.
I've seen em...not a pretty car.mine was a '68 I think..Fix It Again Tony..thatsa fiat.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Restoring, Remodeling, Reclaiming The Quality..
the thing was, it was really fun to drive- handled well, nice 5 speed
it just wouldn't keep in 1 piece.
View Image
What year is she? Looks similar to, but in better shape than, my 1978. It's been garaged for five years now. Don't have the cash to get it back on the road (or insure it), but can't quite bring myself to sell it. Maybe some day. They're fun cars.You're right about the bumpers messing with the lines -- and the Spider rides so low compared to most vehicles on the road today, it's hard to see what good the bumper does. Oh well.
What year is she?
Now we're talking. 79. Not a Strada or Mirafiori.
This is the Pininfarina baby Ferrari. If you look close at the new Porches, their rear is just a copy of the spider. And the nose. Wait until I take out this ugly bumpers. When Pinifarina was designing the spider, I think he was looking at S. Loren's naked picture..When she was The Body.
Designed by Pininfarina. The head designer of Ferrari.
The body was build in the same line with Ferraris and at the time was and to me is still is the most beautiful car ever designed. The bumpers was a last moment add on in order to meet the US specs. I'm taking them off this summer.
You can see that someone put his heart on this car by the lines. Oh yes. and is the first true mobile-convertible saw system.
Very cool.I hope ya have a LONG cord.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Restoring, Remodeling, Reclaiming The Quality..
I set up the Makita blade in the Bosh and installed the EZ Base on the saw. A quick check with the calipers revealed that the blade on the Bosh was not parallel to the saw's base so I lined up the EZ base with brass shims when I installed it.
That would probably be a good thing to cover on install instructions. I checked all my saws and two of them were off. I know they haven't been dropped so they came out of the box that way. The EZ Base, and a few brass shims, make it easy to straighten out the problem but only if you think about it before you slap it on permanently with the double stick. Once I got it lined up perfectly with the tape I went ahead and drilled for the bolts too.
Good and bad news on the blade.
Bottom line, the 7 1/2" (24mm) blades do the job but the Makita blade I bought isn't the answer.
It cuts through a 2X with about 1/16" to spare, but it's not a thin kerf so it has a tendency to bind when ripping 8 foot panels on the table. It also has a negative tooth angle that produces almost no chipout, even without the anti-chip inserts, but it's not the best for ripping.
I'm looking for a good source for the 24mm Diablo with a 16mm arbor that should solve all problems. If you track one down before I locate and post a source let me know.
Jump over to KNots..Charles from Freud frequnts there..he'll hook ya right up..I think Forrest Girl has his email addy........for real.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Restoring, Remodeling, Reclaiming The Quality..
Thanks Sphere - will do!
Hi Kevin.
It will be a big help if you take some pictures and wright the directions,step by step. You're the official RB saws expert. You do that and I promise you be the first one to throw away the tape measure while using the ez Smart.
I call Freud today and very soon they will come up with the right stuff. So far from all the blades that we test, The Diablo 40 teeth is the one that works the best.
Back to work now.
Thanks Kevin.
CF Dino
I took several pictures as I went along. I'll do a quick write-up to go with them and send it all your way.
I'll title it, "How to fix another common shortcoming of right blade saws." <G>
Edited 2/15/2005 9:47 am ET by Golden Wrecked Angle
Thanks K.
With your help and input "we can do it". I was consume all day with the 360 degree square with positive stops and measuring system.
You can set your measurement like your tablesaw and ...just cut. No chip out,and no more "Mary go round" the tablesaw either. No clamping and no squaring or tape measure again.
It was only 50% faster , 100% better and 1000% safer.
What we need now, is to find out ALL the degrees for the positive stops (on the miter cuts) and how much the square should extend. What is the largest cross cut capacity that we need?
Then,if anybody have any complains, We can send him over to breaktime?
Thanks guys. We need all the help that We can get.
YCF Dino
You might want to work on a better way to fasten the threaded clamping post to the dovetails, other than Loc Tite.One of my clamps got hung up, had to knock it about a foot. Post had gone through the dovetailed way into the guide. Pain in the butt to get it straightened out, about an hour downtime...good thing I still carry the tablesaw<G> Don't worry, we can fix that later!
Done. I was waiting for a signal. Until you get the new ones hit the aluminum with a nail punch to deform it and lock it on the stud.
Thanks Billy.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=54930.1
is this the same mishap that occured with you a while back?
<the saw took a bite out of the edge of the rail.>
SanchoRon the caballero bowed low as he waved his sombrero and said goodbye.
FREE SANCHO!!!
Edited 3/2/2005 7:54 pm ET by the razzman
Mine was more a case of ummmmm... operator error. That's as much as I'm going to admit to.
PaulB
Dino, here's what it takes to get a Milwaukee Tilt-Loc w/ EZ base into the case...not much, eh wot?... Don't worry, we can fix that later!
hey, snort... there's a hole in that bucket !
View ImageMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
It's supposed to let that swadust out, dang it<G> Don't worry, we can fix that later!
Billy.
You actually use a case?
And I thought you're more like me. I have to take a picture to remember how the tool goes back again.
I spend 2-3 years talking to all manufactures before we start making the EZ. You know, to make few modifications in the NEW cases and the NEW saw bases in order for their saws to work much better with the EZ. The answer? Yes,Yes.Yes and when the new saws was out...They actually go out of the way to make it harder. But is OK. One day we will have the Right saw with no modifications or even extra base. Until then hack the hell out of the stupid case.
Thanks for the picture. I need it.
The next clamps will have your name. :)
I am in the ZONE! Got it this afternoon. Put the base on my DW364, checked blade alignment and off about 1/16. Adjusted base and clamped the EZ base to it and drilled both at the same time. It sure seems to be a lot of clearance to drill the t-nut hole 11/32". It looked like the nut was about .31 vs .344.
Like you said in your post to me earlier, you don't play around, we talked on Saturday and I am Zoned. UPS ground rocks! Can't wait to try it out. The blade that is currently on the saw is a Milwaukee Endurance 24 t thin kerf. Should I try something better before I cut anything? I think that this blade is really an Irwin.
Thanks, Bob
The blade that works better with the system is the Freud Diablo.40 teeth.
ps.(I'm not working for them)
It sure seems to be a lot of clearance to drill the t-nut hole 11/32". It looked like the nut was about .31 vs .344.
If you go with a smaller hole you need to countersink. The T-nut is not sitting flat with a smaller drill.
I will check again tomorrow.
don't forget to thank Kevin for the alignment tip.
åõ÷áñéóôþ ðïëý!. ÄåßôÃ¥ åðßóçò
This one?
View Image View Image
Freud¯ 7-1/4" 40-Tooth, Thin-Kerf Finishing BladeItem #: 97230Model: TK303
$19.98
Edited 3/4/2005 12:35 am ET by RASCONC
This one is even a step above the Diablo 40 teeth. Go for it.
"åõ÷áñéóôþ ðïëý!. ÄåßôÃ¥ åðßóçò"CAUGHT RED HANDED.You must be a spy trying to give out hidden message to the enemy.
Went to an online eng-greek dictionary, that is supposed to say " Thank You Muchly". It probably says bring me another bottle of ouzo.
Bob
Dino- Even clicking the addy here in this thread 53313.55 won't open the site.
Same as doing google but all the other tool sale sites there open ok.
Anyhow, is that new table ready yet?
Got the one site to partial open once. Saw a little green sports car up in the left corner. Another had the grid of photos ssquares showing but no photos.
Edited 3/14/2005 10:34 am ET by the razzman
I just check at the link. It works fine.
Time for a new computer?
Thanks Razz. I forward the message to the "computer guy".
I can ping your site.But I can't get a web page.Time to reboot the server with size 12 shoe.
From:
Shoeman <!---->
Feb-1 7:23 pm
To:
bobl <!---->
(100 of 189)
53313.100 in reply to 53313.99
Try this link
http://www.eurekazone.com/index.html
Good luck,
Shoe
View Image Options
View ImageReply
Can't get nothing here either.
Other links on BT are ok.
I think the Orlo is leaking.
be an Ouzo
Edited 3/14/2005 11:33 am ET by the razzman
Thanks Bill.
The site was down. Server crash. It's back up now.
Dino,
Have you ever made your own slatwall with EZ? Surely one can get the appropriate router bit. That job I was telling you about would be a natural. I am pretty sure you can buy the metal inserts to strengthen the slats. I may need to order the router base.
Bob
slatwalls? Very EZ. The SRK (router kit) is like a "Manual CNC" You can do slatwalls with your eyes close. And very fast.
Without moving the guide rail you can cover 8" of materials in any direction. And because is bidirectional, you always have room to secure the guide into the panel. You can do tapered fluted columns and even wright letters due to traverse movement. Line drilling, circles and edge routing. Even duplicating any design. If you have a specific need for a big job then we can increase the 8" rout area (width). (Length is unlimited.) to whatever your needs are by increasing the length of the sliding arm.
Slatwalls?
View Image
All that was done without moving the guide rail.
oh gawd am I going to like this tool
SanchoRon the caballero bowed low as he waved his sombrero and said ...goodbye.
Just used mine today to fit a panel under some stairs.
2 cuts, no splintering, and done.
Nice!
Darn you, Dino!
Now I want that router base!
I'm gonna have to start saving my pennies to buy all your goodies.
It would be more than a little tricky for a right hander using a left blade saw but a left hander would sure sing your praises if he had a left blade saw base to go with your system. :-)>
Me? I'd sure like one of each...
LOL - Don't you hate those stubborn cusses that can't just admit it when they are wrong?
It would be more than a little tricky for a right hander using a left blade saw but a left hander would sure sing your praises if he had a left blade saw base to go with your system. :-)>
And he will. I just don't like the idea of having a left base available and people buying new left bladed saws for the Ez and find out later that it will be... "more than a little tricky" and not so EZ.
Imagine what it will happen if you get the EZ for your left bladed saw and ..you can't use the sliding square. Dino no good. EZ no good.
Yes, we need the sales but selling something that it will not work later is not us.
Me? I'd sure like one of each... And you will have one of each as soon as the market understands how the EZ works.
LOL - Don't you hate those stubborn cusses that can't just admit it when they are wrong?
No I don't. At the end they become my best friends.
And I want to thank you all guys for helping the EZ and make it possible for all to work safer and better. Without you guys the EZ was "dead" the first year.
YCF Dino
Why wouldn't this saw cut through 1-1/2" ? If this is true as you say it's a piece of garbage. I have Makita 7-1/4" saws and they cut just about 2-1/2" deep and Portecable 7-1/4" saws cut about 2-3/8" deep. If that Rigid saw doesn't cut through a 2x that's a serious design flaw and should be taken off the shelves.Joe Carola
easy, joe.. easy.. calm yourself..
the EZ Guide requires you to install a base on your saw.. between the base and the guide track it raises the saw just enough so you can't get thru a 2x
originally the system was for cutting panels.. so , no problem
but if you want to trim 1 1/2 stock you need an 8 1/4 saw
any time you want to rip a taper or make some fine cuts on sheet goods, this is the weapon of choiceMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I guess I didn't pay attention to the the EZ guide thing.Is this what your talking about?http://www.toolfetch.com/tools/category/Saw-Guide-Systems/Saw-Guide-Systems.html?id=pCrQbaYmJoe Carola
that's the one...
i've got the 100" setup ( two 50's that go together slicker than a greased turd )Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
The EZ Smart guide has a base plate that attaches to the bottom of your saw's shoe. It has a dado in it that rides a rail on the guide bar. With the extra base riding on top of the heavy duty guide between you and the material being cut, a saw like the Rigid, that normally digs a 2 1/2" deep groove, can only sink it's teeth about 1 3/8" into the material.
I understand that Dino is working on a thinner saw base that might give me that extra 1/8" I need. The other option for guys that want to cut thicker stock is to move up to an 8 1/4" saw...
Or just use it as a straight edge guide against the side of your 7 1/4" saw base...
Or cut, flip, and recut the back...
Or get creative with a guardless 7 1/4" saw and a 8 1/4" blade... (Shutter) I'd have probably smacked anybody else that came up with the idea but I may just try it.
I wonder if Blue Eyed Devil has ever tried an 8 1/4" blade in his guardless Makita... The Rigid is almost identical to his saw pre-mod. Maybe I can get him to try it first and let me know how it goes. <G>
kevin..i don't think the guardless plan is an idea whose time has come...
i'm pretty sure i'd be missing some fingers or be blind if i didn't have a guard all these years..
like i said.. maybe once in 200 cuts do i have to pin the guard.. so it becomes a special occasion, and i'm very consious of it ..
if there is no guard.. it's only a matter of time before i forget or get distracted.. or something else goes wrong
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
You just give me an idea. What about 7-1/2" saw blades?
I'm sure they can make any size. We just have to make sure we have enough space on the guard housing.
Thanks K.
Ok, I thought I found a screaming deal but there's still a hitch.
I ordered the Makita 7 1/2" blade for $32 and change from my local Fastenal distributor. It should be here some time next week.
In the mean time, guess what I stumbled across at Lowes last night?
A 40 tooth, 7 1/2", genuine Australian made, GMC saw blade for $6.95. I got so excited I bought it without checking the arbor size.
Oops! Ever hear of a 15/16" arbor?
RATS!!! Toss it on the ever growing gotta-return-that-one-of-these-days pile...
But the good news is there's plenty of room inside the guard for it...
And wait, maybe we can still make this work!
Research indicates that it's actually a 190mm blade with a 24mm arbor hole designed to fit the GMC MS190 miter saw.
So now all we need (Most excellent creator of innovative solutions :-)> ) is a 24mm to 5/8" (16mm) arbor adapter bushing - or better yet, a source for better quality 190mm blades with 16mm arbor holes.
I'm thinking I may just buy a few 1" to 5/8" arbor adapters and machine them down.
Will your blade retaining nut cover 15/16 plus enough to hold the blade?
Yup - but good question.
I just ordered a packet of 1" to 5/8" adapter bushings from http://www.justsawblades.com that a hobby machinest buddy of mine will machine to press fit. The bushings were less than $5 but shipping pushed the order just over $12.
I'm going to use the Bosh saw instead of the Rigid. There is a little nub on the inside of the tip on the Rigid guard that will have to be filed off to use the bigger blade. No big deal but that was all the excuse I needed to put the Bosh into play and sell the Rigid.
Hi K.
I'm so happy that this THING is taking off and my customers-friends becoming the research and development dept. Now, I know if something happen to me the Ez is in good hands. Because the whole concept is not about me (D. the pimp) But about a better and EZier way that is free of (barracuda-tools) and stupid accidents that can chance one's life (and his family) forever.
So. Kevin, Can you just wait few days for the Bosch 8-1/4 saw? I,m working on a dust shield - collection and the guard. Very soon you will become the one with the most right bladed saws on planet...sorry I just can't help my self.
YCF dino
Well, I've always been pretty patient but, like you, I like finding ways to do things that SEEMINGLY can't be done too.
Then there's that vow from years ago, as part of my left blade conversion ritual, when I swore I would never buy another right blade saw.
If I buy that big, bad Bosh it will be my third right blade purchase since I met you. My last right blade Bosh purchase coincided with the Tsunami - I'm not sure I wan't to take another chance.
Seriously, the 8 1/4" saw is very nice, and I'm sure Bosh wouldn't mind selling one every time someone buys a guide system, but if you can get through a 2x with a $6.95 (or worst case $35) 40 tooth blade, on a standard saw, us poor boys can justify the system that much easier.
I just got a call from Fastenal. My Makita 7 1/2" blade is in.
Since my adapter bushings for the GMC blades are still on order this experiment may have gone as far as it's going. I've got a feeling you'll take it from here though and the system will be better than ever.
Thanks for another EZ, simple, safe solution Dino! Looking forward to what you come up with next.
Sorry, I responded without realizing what the EZ guide was.On the pinning of the guard. I was taught that way when I first started framing 20 years ago and that was the only way I could use a saw even after almost cutting my thumb in half when I was 19 framing in Cape Cod but that's how every framer did it.We were actually taught how to turn the saw upside down on the handle and walk away from it. With the guard pinned up is the fastest way to cut something especially rafters and anyone who tells you it's not is dead wrong. Is it smart NO, It's STUPID and the most dangerous thing to do especially with other people or trades around because no matter who's on the job someone has taken the saw just to cut a small piece of would and doesn't realize that the guard is pinned back and that's all it takes.Believe it or not once you've cut like that for 20 years you get used to it and almost losing my thumb for some reason after that I was so careful when using my saw and there wasn't one cut that I make that I don't think of that day I almost lost my thunb.No one should ever teach it or if they do do it only do it by themselves when no one is around and if you leave your tools in someones garage always pull the wedge out of the guard. I'm not telling anyone to cut this way but there are people that still do and they have to think about everyone else who is around them.Joe Carola
Edited 1/29/2005 4:05 pm ET by Framer
No one should ever teach it or if they do do it only do it by themselves when no one is around and if you leave your tools in someones garage always pull the wedge out of the guard. I'm not telling anyone to cut this way but there are people that still do and they have to think about everyone else who is around them.
Joe Carola
Double Ditto to that.
I have the Festool system, and love it. WHen I got it I saw the need to get a saw dedicated to the rail as addding a base to a saw is essentially taking it out of circulation. So getting the small Festool saw wasn't the end of the world, and while it is expensive, it is the right tool for the job. No guard, great motor, well made, etc. And the Festool rail needs no clamps. I've used it on doors and poanels of all kinds, and it won me over the first cut.THat said, the EZ system looks to have an advantage. Your dedicated saw can be anything. But you really still need a dedicated saw. And the track incorprates an ability to clamp it, which makes it more useful for ripping smaller items. Either system is a "can't live without" though!
Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
Dino, Sears did, and maybe still does make 7 1/2" blades. I still have their 7 1/2" "radial arm miter saw " probably the first slider.Now, there are 7" blades and 7 1/4" blades...might be worth checking what you're runningI use the ez guide on a Milwaukee Tilt-Loc. It does cut through a 2 x , but just barely. The guard did hang up on the base when I cut at full depth, but nothing a little whittling the plastic away didn't fix. Haven't plunged, but I'd work the guard anywayI used (well, I still do) 1/4" mdf shooting boards for years. They're great, but not nearly as accurate and portable as the ez...and Dino's cheap blade rap is right on. I just got finished cutting up 15 sheets of 3/4" mdf on site...$8 DeWalt finish blades worked great...saved my good makita blades...Goldie...I would take the guard off...heightened awareness is a rush<G>and I have never, ever pinned a guard back, I'm sure I really would rather have it off.Now I've to got to go make some more bones to get these optional clamps and another 50" guide, breaking down for cross cuts is a pain LOL Don't worry, we can fix that later!
Who needs engineering and development dept. when i have you guys.
Thanks for the tip.
YCF dino
my only thoughts ...
I wonder what the speed difference at the "tips" are gonna be between a 7.25 and a 8.25?
same saw ... bigger blade ... a little heavier ... still spinning the same rpms ... but now it's gotta travel farther to make the circle ... so it's faster ...
I bet it works.
Try it.
"trust me..."
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Three finger Billy says, yeah, it might work !! lol.
But seriously, play it the safe way, them things are permanent erasers.
GB