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when i hang drywall on metal studs, on the seams, the screws don't want to grab. it it because the drywall is thinner there ? i'v tried self tapping 1" screws. whats the trick.
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That deleted post above was mine- then I reread yours. I thought at first you meant the butt joints- these can be a pain and it is often worth it to pilot drill at the butts on those little skinny studs. I can't remember any trouble at seams- do you mean getting the screw to start, or to suck up tight?
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screws will start, but want to bounce and won't grab tight. this only happens on facory edges.
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Man, you got me. Are you using drill screws? I've been seeing them around- you don't want them. The piercing type will draw up better.
*I think what you mean is that the flange of the stud flexes out of the way when you apply pressure. Here are a couple of tips.Use good screws, Grabber, etc. that are made for this purpose, ie. not the cheapest ones you can find. Even depot carries them, if you didn't get your studs from a reputable supplier. Use a corded drywall screw gun. These guns spin at 5000 rpm which gets the screws started easier. 500 rpm cordless harry homeowner type guns don't cut it. If you are screwing into the flange closest to the web of the stud, or in the field, aim closer to the web, like at the corner where it bends into the web. That way it won't flex away from you. If you are attaching the edge of the board to the unsupported side of the flange, it helps to have the sheet on the other side of the stud on and fastened. It can still be screwed if you are hanging your sheets the other way just try and support the stud with you hand and work away from the first screw you get in, as it helps to hold the flange in place.Its not the same as working with wood, it just takes a little practice and common sense in adjusting your technique.Tom
*if you have lt. gauge studs, use type s screws, 1 1/4" for 1/2" board. the type s are not coarse drywall screws. you might need 1 5/8" screws for 5/8" board. If 20 gauge studs or heavier, then the tappers will work. tappers have snub nose drill pt. The bounce and waver is maybe from the angle of the screw. make sure you're entering the board straight. It's kind of a feel thing, you'll get used to it. At the top of the sheet, if your hanging horizontal, you might try holding the stud and then run the screw. then proceed down the sheet. Vary the speed of the gun till you find the one that works for you. And don't set the depth too deep ( deep enough for the finishers). see if these tips help, i'll check back tonight and see how you did. best of luck
*Orient all your studs the same way, flange on same side. Then screw your drywall on the web side first, which gives you something firm to screw against. Then screw the sheet on the side away from the web, which is now held stiff for you by the other sheet.... this might help.
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mig did you try removing the cone off your drywall screwgun for this?
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mlg,
It sounds like your screws are not full thread. If the length of the non threaded portion of the shank near the head is longer than the thickness of your drywall section, then your screw will go into the stud and pull itself past the stud and start to spin with no grab. (talk about a run on sentence!) Take a look at the sketch. I think this is what may be happening. Make sure your screws are full thread.
Gaby
*How come nobody slips a photo of their sister in the tub in one of these threads? OK, OK! Just thought I'd ask!
*Jim,<>You asked for it! She's a lot of fun, and has a great personality
*Ummm...uh...Bob?Are you, uh, are you claiming that is a picture of your....ummm.....sister?Just curious.As to the lots of fun and great personality, I do not doubt.Rich Beckman
*See what happens when you start talking about studs and screws that don't grab!
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Here's what I think the problem is...
For example: Say you've layed the wall out from right to left. The open end of the stud should always face the direction from which you layed out from. In this case, the right. Then, the drywall shoud also be applied from right to left as well.
When you've applied the drywall horizontally, you'll have a verticle butt joint.(no pun) The sheet on the right side of the joint should be screwed first. Then the next. This will eliminate uneven surfaces.
As far as the screws not holding. I assume you mean there's a problem at the "pressed edge". I get that every now and then too. I think a few things can cause/alleviate this...
-Very light gauge studs
-Try the "hi-lo" dual thread screws
-go slower (rpms)
-move just a bit closer to the edge of the sheet(sometimes this blows out the edge too :(
-move about 2" into the sheet
There's my 2 cents guys!! Good Luck!!
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