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I have a hundred year old timber frame shed I have to move ( only about 40 feet). It’s about 15 by 27 feet and one and a half story high. I’m thinking about sliding four or five pieces of steel in underneath the top beam at the eaves, and using a crane to lift and move it. I’m also thinking that I should stiffen up the walls, maybe by running cables and turnbuckles down from the top beam to the sill beam. Any suggestions?? If I can get it moved it will make a good workshop. If I can’t it has to be dismantled, and I’m not too keen on that route.
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Sounds like a cool old building! I would think you would be better off if you could get the steel under the sills somehow. Lifting it by the top plate is asking the joints holding it together to function under the opposite of the stresses they were designed for, which might have worked early on it its life but a hundred years later...well...
Are you going downhill or up hill? Whats the shed sitting on, drylaid stone? I know someone who moved a similar but smaller building by rolling it on old cast iron plumbing pipes, pulling it with a tractor. This one might be too big for that though.
*I had a neighbor move a 30x50 pole building. I had my doubts, but it worked out fine. The mover bolted large beams across the building, to the side poles, then cross braced them to the plates, in an x fashion. They then cut everything loose with a chain saw and headed down the road about 3/4 mile. That was almost 20 years ago and the building is still standing fine it's new location.
*It's slightly downhill, off of a dry-laid stone founation. I'm going to set it on a floating slab foundation.
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Get some polaroids of the building. Make sure to get inside and out pics. And also pics of the framing structure, (those eaves, etc), and the sill plates.
Scan them and post them.
Point is, the more we know about the building, the better. And pictures are worth more than words.
I'd like to see this before and after.
*Not during?Rich Beckman
*I built two huge docks that weighed 8000#'s each....one extra chain from end to end and the crane moved them from land into water with-out a hitch, or actually with one...the dock were 8x40x12 deep.near the stream,aj
*any building mover can do this one no sweat..but if you want to try it yourself.. nail some 2x8 accross the poles on the inside with the long axis...run a couple of 2x10 under them .. say every 10 feet accross the width slide two 6x6 under for carriers, jack & slide two more 6x6 for rails and set rollers between the carriers and the rails... start rolling...set two more rails and roll along, move the old rails up and leap frog into position... drop her down in place...a structure you're describing is worth the move .. even paying someone to do it...you can't buy the materials for ten times what a building mover would charge.....b but hey, whadda i know?
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I'll shoot some pics this weekend and try and get them on. Thanks
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I've seen buildings moved by bolting lumber across them from post to post, jacking the building up, then backing flatbed trucks and/or hay wagons under the cross pieces. My Dad once moved a garage about 6 miles that way.
I also remember coming up on a mess in the middle of the road where someone had tried this, and the building collapsed around the truck.
*The oldest building I ever worked on had 1 "plus thick claps nailed on with cut nails.It also had an unusual layout that I could never understand.The old lady who lived there explained it had been the old family farm and well over 100 years ago a neighboring house about 300 yards away had been moved and joined to the farm house at the existing location.The house that was moved was moved UP a fairly decent hill.The old lady told me how many teams were used( I can't remember if she said 40 teams,or over 100 teams----I certainly don't know anything about the pulling capacity of draft animals,but I remember being really impressed.Stephen
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I have a hundred year old timber frame shed I have to move ( only about 40 feet). It's about 15 by 27 feet and one and a half story high. I'm thinking about sliding four or five pieces of steel in underneath the top beam at the eaves, and using a crane to lift and move it. I'm also thinking that I should stiffen up the walls, maybe by running cables and turnbuckles down from the top beam to the sill beam. Any suggestions?? If I can get it moved it will make a good workshop. If I can't it has to be dismantled, and I'm not too keen on that route.