Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 19, 1999 08:23pm | #10

   *
   I would like to see a dozen building systems listed here and there costs for materials and labor along with btu's to heat discussed...all at one topic....

   Can it be done????

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 18, 1999 08:49pm | #1

   *Standard for today....2x6 16" oc exterior walls with 7/16 osb, house wrap, fiberglass insulation,poly walls, drywall 1/2", ceilings kraft fiberglass or blown fiberglass, roof vented, doors and windows insulated type, fiberglass stuffed,....roofs typically need to be shovelled if snow builds up, say to big snow storms...if not then ice dam back up occurs here often (Cold upper North American climate...What's much better than the above without costing more????J

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 18, 1999 08:52pm | #2

   *I would like this topic to stick to Northern heating climates....wishful thinking!Thanks,J

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 19, 1999 02:35am | #3

   *Want to add SIP construction to that?Yeah. I know. You said 2X6.But I thought I'd muddy the water.Lew

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 19, 1999 02:50am | #4

   *No sip...start another topic, but thanks for the post!2x6 wall studs on any centers, only.J

2. 
   Guest_ | Mar 19, 1999 08:02am | #5

   *OK, 2x6 on 24" centers, 7/16" OSB exterior and interior sheathing, 5 1/2" EPS insulation (R-26), single bottom plate, double top, headers (over all openings) held to the inside and as much XPS insulation as possible attached to exterior face, sheath entire exterior shell with asphalt impregnated fiber board to act as air/moisture barrier and thermal break. Low E windows and wood doors.Roof with 2x8's on 24" centers (up to 16' span at 75 lb. snow load, go to 2x10 (R-44) or 2x12 (R-50) for longer spans or use shorter spans created by exposed rafters or purlins), 7/16" OSB exterior sheathing and 1x8" Pine T&G interior, 7 1/4" EPS insulation (R-34). Look Ma, no vents! Seal all connections with an expanding type cannister foam and around all doors and windows. Insulate all exterior rim joist with fiberglass (Nasty but necessary) and use a poly sheet over dirt in crawl space if applicable. Due to the more efficient insulation BTU's required to heat envelope are 1/2 of conventional. Cost to build envelope is the same or lower. Good for all northern climates to heat and southern climates to cool.By the way this describes the way I build and the house I live in at 7500' in elevation where it is winter from Spooks to Bunnies. My latest project appraised for $45/ sq. ft. more than cost to build and took 4 1/2 months (broke ground in November and just finished) Oh yeah, it was winter the whole time! But there were three of us through framing and 2 to drywall and finish. It was only 2000 sq. ft. though. And by the way I am sorry that I broke your SIP ruling.

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 19, 1999 10:03am | #6

   *Panelmali ". . . Insulate all exterior rim joist with fiberglass (Nasty but necessary)" ????I've been a dedicated f/g user for a long time but I've never insulated a rim joist with it, my floors seem to always get rained on before closing in, so I insulate the i rim(doubled outside joists) with an xps sandwich. . . unless your calling the joist i headercavities, the 'rim'???? Winter from spooks to bunnies here too. . . nice phrase!!! can I borrow it???-Patrick

4. 
   Guest_ | Mar 19, 1999 10:10am | #7

   *SIP,s are manufactured nearby in VT...What system are you using and do you know of the merits of any of the companys near my location???J

5. 
   Guest_ | Mar 19, 1999 05:42pm | #8

   *Patrick, The reason I use the FG is because I have to insulate the joist bay cavity at the rim (single rim used) after wiring due to the nature of the system I use. You are free to quote me anytime you want as I don't license my ramblings.Jack, If the SIP manufacturer in VT. does not use the method I described (which I doubt) I would not say that you would like it much. There are two different types of SIP's available. Ones that depend on the OSB/Glue Joint/EPS/Glue Joint/OSB analogous I beam for structure and claim to be stronger than conventional are not the ones I use. These companies tend to promote pre-cut systems also which I don't want. I like to cut stuff, gives me a sense of purpose and keeps my mind and my tools sharp. There are lots of people out there however that buy this stuff and use it, God Bless-I use a manufacturer out of Illinois that has the product I need and is the only one I know of that does it this way. Even with the shipping charge to CO. it is cost effective. The type of system I described is not well known even within the SIP industry. I guess it's just that the actual structural content ie: studs on centers and headers allow me to sleep better at night, not to mention allowing for something to nail siding to!

6. 
   tedd | Mar 19, 1999 08:03pm | #9

   *Jack ... follow your own rules. Tell us the cost of your proposed system.

7. 
   Guest_ | Mar 19, 1999 08:23pm | #11

   *tedd,I listed the local standard practices above and assumed since most of us live in homes so constructed that we all know the benefits and costs...I have built mostly log homes for a log home dealer and quite a few huge remodels...The remodels were controlled by architects except one or two...This is the year that I have set for myself to have a solid set of prepriced building systems ready to go by Fall when I'll have time to build...Am making huge changes including turning more toward GCing than Doing the actual building as lead of my own crew (present ways.)As for my new walls I am leaning toward cellulose and or "unsandwiched"foam use. My goal is to keep material costs no higher than standard systems, try to reduce labor costs and callbacks, and increase comfort and air quality. One big dream...reduce payments per month to any utilities!!! In Albany NY, there is a company working on home fuel cell technology. They are real close to prototyping in the field and hope to be part of there early field work.Freedom is the basis of all that I endeaver.... to be part of...to share,J