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Need a blade source for Skil mdl 127 saw

billboquist | Posted in Tools for Home Building on May 30, 2008 04:02am

Hi all. I have a Skil model 127 worm-drive saw. I think someone once told me they stopped making them in the early seventies, but I’m not sure. The good news is that it is a monster of a saw, and will easily blow through four-by lumber in one pass. The bad news is that, contrary to what the model number would lead you to believe, the blade it takes is not 12″, but 11 5/8″. A 12″ blade will bind on the guard.

I have a blade for it, but only one, and it is all steel (no carbide). I have contacted Skil and De Walt (because the blade I have now was made by De Walt). Both say I am S.O.L. as far as new blades are concerned. Does anyone have an idea on how I could obtain a back-up blade, whether carbide-tipped or not? Thanks for any advice you can offer!

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  1. bobbys | May 30, 2008 05:42am | #1

    I have an old 10inch skill, why not just put a 10inch blade on it.
    opps i know cause you want to cut through a 4by 4.

    Well sharpen the one blade you do have and use it only when you need to cut deep.

    my 10 inch does not go through in one pass.

    i have seen 12 inch saws on ebay, maybe someone would part with one blade

  2. toolman65 | May 30, 2008 07:06am | #2

    long shot, but have you tried makita?

    they do make big brute saws for timber framing...maybe they have the blade you need

    also, try a professional blade sharpening company....might have some info.

  3. dovetail97128 | May 30, 2008 07:15am | #3

    I don't know of any source for a blade that size but I may have a couple of possible solutions.

    Both involve a good saw shop and probably are gonna cost.

    I would think ny good shop could take a new or used 12" steel blade and regrind it down to the size you need.
    Or they possibly could then shape and weld carbide teeth to one.

    A couple of good and sharp steel blades will last a long time if you stay away from nails.

    I don't know how many blades you would need for that saw. i have a 14 Ryobi that I had a hard time finding blades for , had one made out of a 15" Makita blade and found another sold through OLDHAM

    They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
  4. User avater
    popawheelie | May 30, 2008 05:08pm | #4

    I think a blade sharpening co could grind down a 12" pretty easily. It's only a 1/16" off of the blade. If you look at most blades they have enough carbide for that plus some.

  5. segundo | May 30, 2008 06:04pm | #5

    i bought a bigfoot for just that reason, it will cut 4x material in one pass. i have posted the first link i found for a supplier, i would start with contacting them about getting one of their blades, or a supplier for similar.

    http://www.medfordtools.com/bigfoot/index.html

  6. ClaysWorld | May 30, 2008 07:02pm | #6

    Not sure but quick looking around and maybe converting to mm to get close.

    Next get the bore and max mm for sure so get the spec from Skill.

    Here's some 300mm stuff.

    http://routerbitworld.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=300mm+saw+blade&Extensive_Search=Y

  7. ClaysWorld | May 30, 2008 07:16pm | #7

    Here's another site that has 300mm.

    http://www.toolsxp.com/fssaw-l04.asp

    1. billboquist | May 31, 2008 12:44am | #8

      Thanks! You may be on to something with that 300 mm blade idea. I just did the math, and that size converts to 11 13/16", so it just might work.

      1. BUIC | May 31, 2008 06:10pm | #9

          Two things come to mind,

          1. If you try to adapt a blade, won't you need a diamond hole for the arbor?  It'll need to be perfectly centered and not distort the flatness of the blade when done.

          2. You sure you don't have a guard problem?  Bent or replaced at some point with the wrong one?

          Just throwing you some random ideas.

          Hope you find a solution...buic 

         

        1. segundo | May 31, 2008 07:21pm | #10

          i had thought about the guard as well, might be easier to modify the guard to work with available blades, than to modify blades if none can be found to work for what OP wanted it to do.

        2. billboquist | Jun 01, 2008 05:36am | #11

          I faced the diamond arbor problem already. Both the 11 5/8" steel blade I have and the 12" carbide-tipped one I bought for it had 1" round arbors holes, but the 12" blade came with a steel "doughnut" with a 1" O.D. and a 5/8" I.D. in case I wanted to adapt it to a smaller arbor. I inserted the adaptor into the 1" hole, then slipped it over a 5/8" rod I inserted vertically into my workbench, like you would drop a record on a turntable (remember those?). Next, I took the diamond knock-out from a 7 1/4" blade and dropped it over the same rod, and used a scratch awl to transfer the shape of the knock-out on to the blade. Finally, I took the blade off the rod and filed to the line created by the scratch awl. It seems to have worked - the blade fits, and it spins true.

          1. BUIC | Jun 01, 2008 06:31am | #12

             Sounds good...buic

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