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I am building a 25 foot long wall that will divide a larger room into two halves, I will be using metal stud construction and I was planning on using rigid foam insulation betwen the studs and then using a sound deadening product that my local supplier referred to as Sound Stop, kind of like drywall he says. The problem is that there is a suspended ceiling in this room (with about 4-5 feet of open space above) and this wall is only going to extend about 6-12 inches above the suspended ceiling. One of these two “new” rooms is going to be a conference room and the other is going to be an outboard motor repair shop, hence the need for sound proofing. My concern is this, I could make the wall out of concrete block and still have a tremendous amount of noise simply come over the top of the wall. By the way, my recommendation to find a better location for the conference room has already been dismissed.
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Chris,
You're kidding, right?
An outboard motor shop next to a conference room?
Try searching the archives, I seem to remember a fellow who wanted to soundproof a wall between a library and a jackhammer repair shop..... or maybe it was a pistol range?
Craig
*Chris.. for sarters , the wall has to go all the way to the old ceiling..forget the rigid insulation.. use sound batts or blown in densePak cellulose... cheaper and better..try one layer of 1/2" homasote under the drywall on the shop side..build 2x3 steel stud wall and drywall the conf. room side.. now build another 2x3 stud wall with haomasote towards the drywall of the first.. leave a gap so there is no direct contact..if they don't want to do this tell them to save their money.... the wall won't even keep the fumes out , never mind the noise...b but hey, whadda i know?
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CHRIS,
First thing the new wall has to go all the way to the existing ceiling and be sealed, next you will need 2 walls next to each other do not let them touch each other, the walls can be framed out of 2 1/2 in metal studs but you need that space between them at least 1in, next install S.A.B
INSULATION sound attention blankets in both of the walls,and 4ft away from the wall above the acc. ceiling just lay it on the tile , on the shop side I would install 5/8 drywall and on the conf.side 2 layers of 1/2 drywall, If money is no object you could also install metal resilient channel on the walls this is a metal that is applied on the wall it has holes in it so the sound doesnt travel trough it, it is used mostly on ceilings but it does work on walls, I have had lots of success with this method as I do 80% comm. work and have done this often
BOB ZITA :KBZ ENTERPRISES WEST BARNET VERMONT
*Chris: you really should go to the top of the ceilng with your dividing wall. Use a 2x6 for your top and bottom plate, then stagger your metal studs every 6" (each side of the wall is 12" o.c.).You can use 1"x3" tin tabs to secure the studs. Weave batt insulation between the studs and spray foam insulation between wall and any pipes. Also if you can, put the work bench at the far end of the shop space and secure it to the floor not the wall
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I am building a 25 foot long wall that will divide a larger room into two halves, I will be using metal stud construction and I was planning on using rigid foam insulation betwen the studs and then using a sound deadening product that my local supplier referred to as Sound Stop, kind of like drywall he says. The problem is that there is a suspended ceiling in this room (with about 4-5 feet of open space above) and this wall is only going to extend about 6-12 inches above the suspended ceiling. One of these two "new" rooms is going to be a conference room and the other is going to be an outboard motor repair shop, hence the need for sound proofing. My concern is this, I could make the wall out of concrete block and still have a tremendous amount of noise simply come over the top of the wall. By the way, my recommendation to find a better location for the conference room has already been dismissed.
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Had security ever entered their mind? When I worked at our college cafeteria they had 4 offices connected exactly as you describe. When we were closing, if we needed the keys for something, we simply wen up and over and helped ourselves.
Outboard repair shop?? Concrete block ought to be one of their first choices. Of course, they probably want to share HVAC systems as well right?
-Rob