OK I built the shop, now I need a door. A big door. The opening is about 7′ x 7′. I currently have temp double plywood swing out doors. (they dont swing 180 degrees) I would like to keep the double swing out doors. The problem is this: I am going to use the dreaded vinyl siding. If I use the tips outlined for using vinyl around the doors from issue #149 pg 88 by using a spacer over the jamb, it pushes the hinge so far out that by the time the barrel can clear the trim, (so it can swing 180 degrees) there is no wood to put the screws into the frame. I have been trying to figure this out and I need some help here.
Now, the door itself. I was going to use 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 fir with diagnol support for the door frame and screw plywood to it. Sound right??? Got any ideas here.
Thanks
Replies
Hi Dawg -
Arff! I just built a new shop with one 5 x 7 double door and one 8 x 8 double door with a man door in one of them. I used through bolted Russell-Wilcox hinges and had them custom made with offset pintles to clear the siding. In my climate I really needed insulated doors and so made them of MDO plywood, 3/8" thick on the inside and 3/4" thick on the outside, separated by two by threes in the center area and two by fours at the edges. I inserted 1 1 /2" Styrofoam between the ply faces to provide the insulation.
They turned out great and seem to impress everyone who sees/uses them - they close with an authority no luxury car in the world can match.
Can you give me any more information about these hinges? I'm looking to build the same kind of doors for my garage, but there is brick that juts out farther than the wood framing around the door that would keep the doors from opening much past 90 degrees. I did an internet search for Russell-Wilcox hinges but came up dry.
Thanks,
Bart
Hi Bart -
I made a mistake: Richards Wilcox is the right name and I bought them from Crown Industrial:
http://www.crown-industrial.com/frames/hinges.htm
I found the ones I wanted from the catalog on the net and then called them. I sent them drawings of the modifications I wanted and after a while and some extra money, they were done.
The offset required an increase of about an inch which allowed me to set the pintle screws into solid timber rather than trim and timber. Be really careful to get not only the offset required but also an arrangement that makes for a solid attachment.
ronw
I'm not sure I can picture this clearly, but I think you might want to build your real wood jambs and casings so they are out as far as the vinyl. Just project your jambs out beyond the frame. You might want to use 2x material for the jambs so the hinge screws have more to bite into.
As for the doors, you might want to forget the 2x's. Since you're using plywood, that's rigid enough to stay square. You could add 1x trim and diagonals as decoration and to help keep the plywood flat. Using T1-11 might add visual interest.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA