I just finished up several small mission mantel clocks in oak for a customer. She would like them asap (my fault, not hers). I’ve put on one coat of an oil stain. What can the final finish be that will allow me to deliver them as soon as possible?
I posted this question over at Knots, but I only got 2 responses in 24 hours. I’m hoping someone here has some experience in finishes.
Replies
I'd go with water borne laquer or laquer, fastest dry.
Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
Deft lacquer, ya can do 3-4 coats in half a day.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Do you lightly sand between coats?I like to wet sand between coats of finish220 or finer grit sandpaperBut when you only have one coat of finish, you have to be VERY careful and not sand into the stain (or you will have a light spot where you are down to bare wood)If you have one coat and some runs & overlaps, you just have to very carefully when you sand them down
Wet sand what? The only wet sanding I ever do is when going for a piano finish with varnishes.
I never wet sand either lac, or shellac. No need to. One layer melts into the next. If I sprayed outside ( normally) I will sand with 220 or finer just to flatten anything that isn't. I often leave the swarf in the pores too, it'll re-melt and fill somewhat.
But it varies widely as to WHAT I am finishing, and which methods I am using..sanding thru stain is a no-no for sure.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Normally, I'd say a water based poly, but Ilike 3 days cure time for the oil stain first.
Minwax has a fast dry oil poly tho that goes off for recoat in four hours. You could pick some up this morning and have three coats on by time you go to bed tonight, deliver and get paid Monday Morning.
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What about using wax? They are just mantel clocks that will rarely be handled.
I never consider just wax as a finish, but over shellac ( yeah,yeah) it is acceptable. It is in my opinion a layer to be viewed as protecting the underlying TRUE finish.
OTOH, a lot of raw antiques have nothing but "BriWax" as a finish. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
That was one of my first thoughts as well, but not enough range of experience to actually suggest it.
? Johnsons wax, set alittle, buff to preferred shine? I'd try it on a scrap.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
I gotta say....lacquer is the best finish. If you have 24 hours, you have time to spray on 10-12 coats.
Don't sand between coats unless you have to (dust, hair, etc.)
Don't use a pre made tack cloth; use a clean towel/rag (box of rags) and spray it with some lacquer and use that to wipe the piece.
When you are finished, it tends to look better/not as glossy if you wax the piece using Johnson's Paste Wax and #0000 steel wool lightly. Wipe it all back down with a clean rag and presto a perfect finish.
I get compliments on this finish all the time.
BTW: a piece I did just went through a house fire. Not singed but smoke damaged badly. A little Murphy's Oil Soap then a new coat of wax and it was as good as new!
gk
I agree 100%. Fool proof, durable, and fast.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
I don't have a spray system, are there any spray cans of lacquer that would work?
Deft come in a spray form.Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
And it brushes well.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
We used to buy it in 5 gallon buckets and after huffing it (not intentionally) for too many years it gave me more of a headache than a buzz. I have gone back to shellac and laquer.
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Yeah, it gives a nasty hangover too. I spray out doors mostly, and have a decent resp. with charcoal filters, if I can get a whiff of cocoanut coming thru, new filters ASAP.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
I, myself, would use shellac--spray or brush. Very quick, looks good, repairable if you mess up and dries quickly.
DW is always after me to finish my home projects more quickly.
And it's not about the type of top coat I'm using.
Lacquer is also my favorite finish for this type of object, or any that isn't taking a lot of abuse. I'm in a house now that I installed some handrails in 3 years ago and the lacquer looks as good today as it did back then.
The brushing lacquer sprays well if thinned a little. The lacquer in a can is also very good and there are a few items around my house finished that way.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Here is a wipe on polyurethane
http://www.minwax.com/products/oil_based_clear_protective_finishes/wipe_on_poly.cfm
I tried the wipe on poly on a larger project recently and it worked fine, probably no better than regular polyurethane thinned 25% or so with mineral spirits, but just fine.
I did have a bit of a scare when the extra solvent in the wipe on poly was washing out stain in some areas, and it has to be put on quite sparingly or it tends to sag, even on almost perfectly horizontal surfaces.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.