OK, I know there are lots of things that could be better about this video – but hey, I’m just a newbie at this! Hopefully I’ll get better with time. Anyway, I did this one today.
“…craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit.” – P. Korn
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Replies
A bit slow for production work, but the result is a pefectly beveled door.
Also, your Youtube video would get more hits if you dressed a bit more provocatively.
A bit slow for production work, but the result is a pefectly beveled door.
I don't do a lot of doors like this - I almost bought a porter-cable portable planer (I had figured it into the bid, because I knew if I ended up doing the work myself, I'd need it). Then I got the tracksaw video, and decided it would be a more versatile tool, if somewhat slower. A trade-off."...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
I think cutting a bevel is faster than using a planer.
I've done multiple doors using the cutting method.
You pile your doors on saw horses first. You can pile them pretty deep. 5?
Then you offset the top one to one side so it hangs off the side of the pile and cut the bevel. I put a bevel on both sides.
You can cut a bevel on both sides and cut top and bottom this way without picking up the door.
After you have it cut you take it off the pile and set it on edge for the hinge mortises.
You can go through the pile this way and pick them up a lot less.
You just HAVE TO REMEMBER which door is which. I check multiple times to make sure.
It helps to mount the hinges and swing the door before you start another one.
That's just the way I've done it. You might not like it or do it that way. Doors get heavy!
Doors are easy to get mixed.
After eyeballing down a door to determine hinge side. I put a big X on that side then write the door location on the top of the door. Bevel side gets an angle mark in pencil also at the top of the door
I cut the head jambs door plus 3/16" only after doors have been beveled and hinged.
It helps me screw up less.
I bevel both edges. But you're right - I have come close to mortising the hinges on the wrong side more than once! "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
I bevel doors exactly the same way as you except I use two saws .Hinge side is set at 1 -1/2 ° and the latch is set at 3 °.I use a 18 tooth rip blade in a 6" PC sawboss.
With the correct blade there is no need to touch up edge with a plane or sandpaper.
I have hung at least 1000 stock doors this way. I have also used the PC door planer. The old type with the spiral blade.Very good for alteration work as well as planing new doors. If a door was factory beveled but needs an adjustment ,then I use the planer or a hand plane.
As far as speed goes, sawing a bevel is faster. I clamp a straight edge to the door and make one cut. With a planer you do not need a straight edge but it takes multiple passes to bevel the lock side.The speed really is not much of a factor, I suppose you might be able to saw a couple more doors than you can plane in a days work.
mike
I haven't done that many doors. I got into it and then had a change of life. Moved to many times following my wifes career.
I had the big PC planer as well. The thing is a big planer. I have a Elu planer now. It's lighter.
It works fine and has carbide inserts.
The main reason I liked sizing the doors piled up on top of eachother was I didn't have to move them as much. I work alone when I can.
Seemed like the cut was unusually dusty and slow. What kind of blade were you using?
Hey, did you notice that one of the "Related Video's" is "Megan's Play Kitchen"?
Good thing the contest is over, or you might be branded a traitor! ;-)
Cute kid.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
the cut was unusually dusty and slow
yes, and yes. Just using the blade that came with it - looks like a 60 or 80 tooth, wide kerf carbide tipped. Very dusty - and felt sluggish. Probably should upgrade to a better blade. And definitely needs a shop-vac attached when cutting."...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
Use a thin kerf 24 teeth blade.
It's much faster, easier and much less dust.
I use a track planer for beveling doors.
No dust and no sanding.
david.
on the blade, thanks, I'll try it! On the other - that sounds cool - but what exactly is a track planer?"...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
Thanks for all your videos and sharing what you do! Keep 'em coming!Don't you just hate power cords like that? God, it shouldn't be a major feat for a manufacturer to supply a supple, flat-laying cord. I've noticed that the one on my Multimaster fits the bill, though. Good on Fein.
The new Dremel MM is the worst I have ever used for that problem, its as coiled as one of them awful yellow spring like air hoses.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/the-ez-smart-edge-jointer
3-1/2" capacity and done in one pass.
You position the rail at the cutting line. Similar to a circular saw but no marks or sanding. The planer stops at the line. you can call it a guided (track) planer.
david.
that is really cool. One reason I got the TrackSaw is that my portable planer just didn't plane a perfectly straight line (operator error?). I wanted something more precise. I thought about getting one of those nice Porter Cable door planers with the long base, but figured since I don't do a lot of doors, the TrackSaw would be a more versatile tool, in the same price range.
I had seen the e-z smart track before, but not with an edge planer. That looks like a really nice, precision setup."...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
Huck,
Track saws are nice but without the ez / eurekazone inventions are nothing but fancy shooting boards.
Stay tuned for the http://www.tracksaws.com site. ( under construction )
A large US company is taking Dino's inventions and patents in the market with a complete line of products for ALL guide systems.
Even better Festool, Dewalt and Makita tracks.
Good for all the track saw users.
Stay tuned.
david
Edited 12/27/2008 10:25 pm ET by davidwood
That sounds pretty cool, I'm sure I'll be spending some of my hard-earned overhead money there! Thanks for the heads-up. We miss Dino here, but I guess someone accused him of using this venue to advertise (which he never did, in my opinion), so he stopped coming around. He is still well-respected here."...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
Good job, Huck. I've been keeping track of the Craftsman project, and I am highly impressed. Keep on posting, you are giving the people what they want!
Thanks - I'm no expert, seems everything I do there's people out there doing it faster and better, I'll be the first to admit that. But I enjoy the versatility of my work, and on small projects its still feasible to do it this way."...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
I can frame, shingle, and sheetrock like a wildman, but when it comes to fine finish work, I can't be rushed. You don't normally get a second chance on a $600 door.
You've got yourself a killer saw that directs about 70-80% of the dust out of a dust port and you don't put a bag on it?
For my Festool saw, I attach a Bosch 3 1/4" planer woodchip bag - it's a wire reinforced square sawdust cloth "bag" and it fits very snug on the saw.
Should fit the same on your Dewalt and it would cut down the mess you make a few 100%.
Well worth using. One cut like that, and I'd have about 1-2" in the 6"x8" square bottom of the dust bag - very efficient.
Julian
I mentioned in the video that I didn't bring the shopvac that day"...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com