*
You might consider putting some styro insulation down in the basement floor before you pour, if it will be used for living space (northern climate). Sometimes just putting it around the outside perimeter is a costsaving but effective method of getting some floor insulation. I am sold on vapor barriers for basement floors but there’s a lot of debate on this since it affects how the floor cures. You may want to research this more in the archives.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Listeners write in about haunted pipes and building-science tomes, and they ask questions about roof venting and roof leaks.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
You might consider putting some styro insulation down in the basement floor before you pour, if it will be used for living space (northern climate). Sometimes just putting it around the outside perimeter is a costsaving but effective method of getting some floor insulation. I am sold on vapor barriers for basement floors but there's a lot of debate on this since it affects how the floor cures. You may want to research this more in the archives.
*
put the foundation drain NEXT to the footer and back fill with STONE.
*Tuff&Dry is a very effective (and$) system. Look at brush grade elastomeric rubber. (Sonneborn is one) Enkadrain is aplastic mesh with fiber backing designed the relieve hydrostatic pressure and "drop" water down to drain. And extruded polystyrene is a solid choice for insulation. Trowel grade bentonite or volcay panels are cost effective waterproofing alternates; with either of these I first seal the tie holes and cove the wall/footing intersection with the rubber. To run interior drain tile at the perimeter isalso cheap insurance. Lay your 6 mil VP beneath at least 2" of fill and roll up over the tile at the edges. Food for thought, Rick
*There's a product called XYPEX that is used to coat concrete water tanks. It is a micro-crystaline formula that penetrates and bonds to concrete. You could paint this on the outside of the foundation walls. Next install a perimeter drain (perforated pipe surrounded by washed stone in a filter fabric envelope). Under your slab you could run a couple of perforated drain lines to relieve hydrostatic pressure under the slab. Run these to a sump basin or out under the footer to daylight if your topography allows. Its always best to run to daylight or to an exterior manhole with drain tile. If you bring it into the house (ie. sump basin) and the power goes out or the sump goes out, you've got a flooded basement. The exterior structure costs about $1000 with a frame and grate. You can install your sump in this and if you have a failure the basin just fills up to ground water level. No water in the basement. Also, before pouring the slab, lay out extruded polystyrene insulation on top of 6" crushed compacted stone. (capillary break). 2" polystyrene is good. Spread heavy mil poly sheeting over this lapping and taping seams. Lay out chairs for the wire mesh to set on. Use enough so the weight of the wheel barrow doesn't crush them. Purchase a good concrete mix with a water reducing addmixture. A 4" slump at the chute is a workable mix. Don't skimp on the slab thickness; pour 5" and tool in a good amount of control joints. Chase the tooled joints with a partner saw with diamond blade within 24 hours of pour. Cut joints 1 1/2" deep. Seal joints with a good concrete sealant and use closed cell backer rod set into joint 1/4" deep. This should give you the long term durability and livability you're looking for.Eric
*
There seems to be some controversy over whether extruded foam insulation offers a haven for, or actually may attract termites, when installed below grade. I don't know if it's true or what, and haven't heard anything recently clarifying the issue. I think it might be good practice to at least keep any ground contact insulation away from the structure or siding. I'm curious of other people's opinion on this.
G*
*
Often overlooked is an interior perimeter drain with a sump tied to it. I think these are a great way to handle the occasional hurricane even if you do have good drainage.
*There is a product called "Densifier" sold by Applied Concrete Technology (Protectcrete.com) which has been used effectivly on water tanks when sprayed on the exterior.
* Nick,
Joseph Fusco <img
*Rigid foam insulation can be purchased with anti-insect treatments. Termites have little interest in foam if it is adjacent to concrete. Why put gravel and tile along the bottom of a foundation wall ? I just can't figure out this wasted procedure and materials. Unless you building on a spring, the only way water can get down there is from a surface flood (rain and snow run off hitting the wall and travelling down to the footer joint and into the basement). Instead, trench the surface perimeter and run the tile away from house; use rain gutters and wide eaves and slope the grade away. Run gutter into down hill catch basin or barrels if you lvie in the city.
*I remember reading about a compressed fiberglass insulation board that was said to be a superior insulation for in-ground applications. I have searched the web, but can't find anything about it. Anyone know the name and availability of the product? And possibly the price (I assume it ain't cheap...)
*
What is the appropriate treatment for the exterior of a newly poured foundation?I want to do it once and the right way.No cutting corners.Energy efficiency and water resistance are top priorities.I have excellent drainage on the sight. Also is there something I should consider before the basement floor is poured,(vapor barrier). If so, what kind? Thanks, SPARKY