Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 08, 1999 02:29am | #1

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   First of all pull the stems or cartridge from the valve to avoid melt down.

   Secondly, try MAPP gas instead of propane, but make sure you have a torch that is good for MAPP.
   Propane was ok for lead solder, but is not really hot enough for lead free.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 08, 1999 02:32am | #2

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   It's the one in the yellow canister.

   Joseph Fusco View Image

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 08, 1999 04:16am | #3

   *Propane will work -- I've sweated a number of heavy 3/4" valves without trouble -- but you must be patient. Be sure to heat the valve body, not the pipe, and move the flame around to avoid scorching. Shoot upwards with the hottest part of the propane flame, which I believe is the tip of the bright blue inner cone, touching the brass -- this makes a huge difference. It shouldn't take more than a minute or two before the solder melts. This is a lot easier and safer if you sweat a short pipe/valve joint first elsewhere, then attach the assembly to the pipe run.One other thing -- the valve will be hot for a long time after you make the connection. Do not disturb it or burn yourself! I prefer ball valves too...

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 08, 1999 09:09pm | #5

   *You must also make sure that you clean the valve and pipe to bright or all the heat in world won't make a good joint, even after you have heated it for awhile and stopped before soldering it may help to reclean.

2. 
   Todd_ | Jul 08, 1999 09:09pm | #4

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   I am a novice at plumbing. I am roughing-in a new tub and am sweating both 1/2" and 3/4" copper pipe and fittings with no trouble, but when I got to the final connection to the first brass bath valve it was as though I couldn't get the thing hot enough with my propane torch. The solder refused to flow up into the connection. Any suggestions would be appreciated.