| I own an older house with a stone foundation. Occasionally, only during heavy rains, water seeps through one wall and leaks to the floor. Is there a good way to spread a layer of new concrete over the old stone, letting it cure and then waterproofing it? A porch on this side of the house outside, so getting access to dig a drain outside would be difficult. |
Thanks
Replies
Greetings M, Welcome to Breaktime.
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.
Perhaps it will catch someones attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
'Nemo me impune lacesset'
No one will provoke me with impunity
Sounds like there's no access to the exterior of the foundation due to the porch - so all repairs are from the inside? No easy fix but here's what I've used. If it's dry laid stone (no mortar) use hydraulic cement in the spacing between the stones; it's specifically for stopping water leaks and can be used when the water is flowing. However, by blocking the current water path thru the stone the water will just re-route to find another path and then you'll have to patch that area also. It may take doing the entire wall. If there's mortar between the stones today you'll first need to chip out as much loose stuff as possible.
On the outside of the house, be sure all downspouts (if you have them) are funneled 2-3 feet away from the foundation. If possible, grade a slight slope away from the house as well - just anough so the water doesn't run toward the foundation or pool alongside the house.
Good luck, -Norm
Yes, I am planning on repairing the whole wall and have worked with hydraulic cement for smaller patches before. The only problem is working with hydraulic cenemt on a large area is that it has such a short work time. I don't want to have to keep stopping to make new batches of this stuff if I don't have to. As a a substitute, I was thinking of using sand/ topping mix instead and spreading over the entire wall. I also dont know if in such a large area, I have to put up metal lath or anything like that to secure the new stuff.
Any more advice to these questions would be much appreciated. Thanks Norm.
Yeah, the hydraulic work time is pretty brief. I've thought of trying the same method you're thinking of but always shied away from it. I think a skim coat of cement would be fine if it were just a cosmetic fix but I really think you want something worked into the seams. Water will work thru a thin skim of concrete pretty quickly, I wouldn't expect a long life for this type of repair.
When I've done repointing in stone basements (my own included) I use a thick mortar mix, you can mix an 80lb bag & have plenty of time to work it, scoop it onto a mortar board and hold it so that the edge of the board is right up against the wall. Using smaller trowels & jointers slide the mortar off the board right into the seam & work it in deep. You can get proficient at this method quickly.
Another thing I've done on a dry laid foundation that was leaking - and bowing inward - is to use a sheet of waterproof membrane (the stuff roofers use) and stretch that across the wall, being sure to secure and seal all the edges. I then built a concrete block wall inside the basement up against this backfilling all the cracks and inside the block with cement. No leaks and no further bowing of the wall in over 3 years.
One last thought, there's lots of concrete/rock specific caulking available these days. I've seen it at my local stone yard but haven't tried it. How easy would that be to just use a caulking gun to fill the voids!
-Norm
What you can do is a thin "slip-form pour".
First, knock out all of the loose material in the stone wall.
Run a couple of 2X4s from floor to ceiling (plumb, 4 ft apart)
Then make a 2 Ft X 4ft plywood form with a 2x4 as a "strongback" to keep it from bulging out.
Screw form to 2x4s, and do your first pour. Tap or vibrate the form to get the voids out. After it sets, lift the form and do the next pour...
Sometimes you will need to apply scraps to the side of the 2x4s to plug the edges if the wall is irregular.
You wind up with a nice flat wall that is more resistant to bulk water. The concrete can be coated to make it more water resistant.
I add fibers to the concrete for this application.
What type of "fibers"? Do they effect the working time at all?
"What type of "fibers"? Do they effect the working time at all?"
The stuff they sell for that very purpose. Comes in bags at pretty much any supply store. The product I generally use is polypropylene, but I know that sometimes they are polyester or nylon.
I do not think the fibers would have any impact on the working time.
Just a brainstorm here...it could be a really good, quick, effective fix. Or it could be a bloody nightmare.
http://www.nbponds.com/supplies/waterfall_foam.html
Pond Foam. It's like the foam in a can you use around doors, windows, pipes, etc..., but it's designed to be immersed in water all the time.
The disadvantage to using it may be in putting a skimcoat over it once it has basically become the mortar. I don't know if it would affect the integrity of skimcoat. Also, it might get spendy if you have a lot to do. Any thoughts?
--Andy