Replies

1. 
   DanH | Oct 08, 2007 11:57pm | #1

   The rust-reducing paints and primers (not familiar with POR-15, so don't know if it's in that category) work quite well. They interact chemically with rust to form a strong bond. They don't generally produce a very smooth finish, though, if that's a consideration.

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1. 
   Crockny | Oct 09, 2007 12:12am | #2

   I will be painting a color over the treated surface -- but if it's really rough it won't look good on a bathtub!  I suppose the smoother you can get the rusty surface the better the finish?  Or does the rust-killing process make it rough looking anyway?

1. 
   DanH | Oct 09, 2007 12:17am | #3

   First off, the rust-reducing paints/primers need some rust on the surface to adhere -- they don't adhere well to rust-free metal.I can't say for sure that they make the surface any rougher than it was to start with, but they don't make it any smoother, and the paint is very tough and hard to sand.
   If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader

1. 
   Crockny | Oct 09, 2007 12:28am | #4

   That's not  a problem --  it's solid rust!  Thanks for the advice ...

2. 
   madmadscientist | Oct 09, 2007 12:36am | #5

   Yea I've used POR-15 and it works as advertised.  Just follow the directions-scrap off the loose rust and make sure its clean (as in not greasy-dirty).  The stuff turns milky in sunlight but thats probably not going to be a problem on the bottom of a tub

   Daniel Neumansky

   Restoring our second Victorian home this time in Alamdea CA.  Check out the blog http://www.chezneumansky.blogspot.com/ 

   Oakland CA 

   Crazy Homeowner-Victorian Restorer

3. 
   gdcarpenter | Oct 09, 2007 01:27am | #6

   Try 'Hammerite' paint, designed specifically for what you are talking about. Probably about $65 a gallon, but you could probably do with a quart. Comes in a smooth glossy finish or a 'hammered' finish. Fumes are not so nice, unless of course you are like Raymond's father and like the smell.

   Let's not confuse the issue with facts!

1. 
   Karl | Oct 09, 2007 03:36am | #9

   I almost used hammerite on a painting project until I learned that no other paint will ever stick to it. Apparently it has a very high silicone content and that prevents other finishes from adhering to it. Other than that it sounds like it does a great job.I think rustoleum red rusty metal primer does a great job. I use it for all kinds of projects mostly because I like the color of it for the final finish. I wish they made a paint and not just a primer in that color.karl

2. 
   kate | Oct 10, 2007 01:16am | #14

   re Hammerite - Krylon and/or Rustoleum makes that stuff in a spray can, & it is DYNAMITE on the underside of tubs, cast iron sinks, & radiators.A bathtub takes one can - $7.95, tops.

4. 
   Piffin | Oct 09, 2007 03:27am | #7

   That would work pretty well if you are putting it out in the horse paddock for a drinking well for the critters, but for something you want painted nice for in the house, roll it over and spend an hour with a wire cup brush on a drill motor.

    

    

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5. 
   renosteinke | Oct 09, 2007 03:34am | #8

   There is a lot to be said for preparation.

   I would first try to remove / smooth the rust. I've had real good results using a Scotch-brite pad on an orbital sander.

   The next step, IMO , is to use one of those 'rust reformer' products, rather than a primer. These products take a few days to properly act, and leave the surface looking a dull black.

   After that, it should paint real well. I would suggest that you try a new technique; thin the paint, and daub it on with a paper towel. Prior to painting, you might even MILDLY heat the tub, so it feels warm to the touch. This will help the paint soak in, as well as help prevent runs.

6. 
   JoeyJoey | Oct 09, 2007 03:38am | #10

   What I have done, with good results (tub looks great after five years) is wire brush and sand exterior of tub, bondo, prime and paint with oil base.

1. 
   Crockny | Oct 09, 2007 05:56pm | #11

   Please excuse my ignorance -- if the bottom of the tub is solid rust, is it necessary to use one of those rust converting products to stop it from further deteriorating or would sanding, bondo and paint work just as well in the long run?

1. 
   DanH | Oct 09, 2007 06:49pm | #12

   The rust-converting products avoid the need to get down to bare metal, and they bond well. If you don't use one then you need to get down to bare metal somehow, then use a good metal primer to assure a good bond.
   If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader

1. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Oct 09, 2007 07:12pm | #13

   Just a general FYI, POR15 has as part of their portfolio a rust converter called Metal Ready, and it works great.  I will never ever use navel jelly again.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

   Also a CRX fanatic!

   If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts.  You nut, you.