i want to replace a run of copper piping in my basement, it’s a real mess with dents, deadends and areas of the old kind of beige pvc. it currently runs underneath the first floor joists. i want to run the PEX thru the joists so that i can drywall the ceiling right to the joists. aside from the typical structural issues drilling thru joists, are there any things i should watch out for? grommets to hold the pex in the joists? distances from each other (hot/cold), and wiring that i need to be careful of?…..that sort of thing. thank you, john
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All that sort of thing will be in the manufacturer's installation instructions, which you can obtain at the suuplier or online. The plumbing codes do not have a lot of requirements specific to PEX. What they do is to bump you to the man'frs requirements.
However, I can say that PEX will be a good choice for your project, and that, properly installed, it will be there, trouble-free for longer than you will.
thanks for the tip,
went to the ipex site, really all they suggest were things i suspected, like protecting the pex with metal plates on studs and such.
in your experience, do you see any difference between crimp and clamp applications?
thanks for all your help,
john
I use plastic supports to hold the pex at each joist or stud. Also, give the hot water line place to grow as temp rises in tube. It will expand and contract lengthwise. I use metal sleeves when going from room to room to prevent rodents from knawing.
Crimp or clamp? Either is just fine if done right, according man'frs instruction. I see thousands of each every year, and both are fine.
>>>are there any things i should watch out for? grommets to hold the pex in the joists? distances from each other (hot/cold), and wiring that i need to be careful of?.....that sort of thing.
I'd say you are thinking about the right issues. Make sure your pilot holes are far enough inside the joists so that DW screws don't poke the pipe.
PEX is fun and easy to work with, and you can get an amazing amount of connectivity done in short order. If you are using crimp-type, be sure to keep the tool square with the fitting as you close it.
And in tight spots where the tool's handles won't open (e.g. inside cabinet spaces or between close framing members), be prepared to build the pipe structure first, then insert it into it's space, then connect it to the incoming feed.
thanks for the info......yeah, the handles need to have about 10-12" of clearance. lol
sorry for taking so long to reply, this new site is tough to navigate.
I've been running pex in my
I've been running pex in my shop project. Use the crimp connections. Don't use the plastic push and pray type. They will leak.