Replies

1. 
   BryanSayer | Sep 07, 2005 06:32pm | #1

   If this is a spot that is real obvious, like you see it everytime you walk in the door, I'd vote for some form of real plaster. But that might require rock lath rather than wallboard, or at least a binding agent on the wallboard. If this is a closet, then joint compound will probably work fine, but over that big of an area there might be some problems like adhesion or shrinking or sliding.

   Real plaster cures and is much harder than joint compound. It just looks different. USG makes some products, like structo-lite and a finishing plaster that I believe mixes straight with water so you don't have to go the lime/gauging mix route.

   But then again, I'm a fan of real plaster.

1. 
   FlyingContractor | Sep 08, 2005 06:44pm | #4

   Unfortunately, yes, it's visable...the fireplace surround (chimney leaked for years and ate the plaster away).  What do you think is the easiest and best way to get this done?  Take the sheetrock off and us another base and plaster?

   Thanks!

1. 
   BryanSayer | Sep 08, 2005 11:07pm | #5

   I had exactly one of these too. It was really easy to fix. I called Neff, and wrote a check.Seriously, yes I think take the sheetrock off and get rock lath. See if you can find someone who plasters (or stucco) to teach you. I'm not the one to do that.

2. 
   CapnMac | Sep 09, 2005 12:09am | #6

   But that might require rock lath rather than wallboard, or at least a binding agent on the wallboard.

   Hmm, isn't he more likely to need either greenboard or blue board rather than "plain" GWB?  Would seem like the plain paper face might suck some of the moisture out of the curing plaster.

   Mind you, most of my plaster experience involves casts, rather than wall finish, too.  (I'm pretty sure skim coating with joint compound is just not the same animal at all.)Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

2. 
   Shep | Sep 07, 2005 07:21pm | #2

   You do need to tape the joints, or you'll get cracks.

   try feathering the plaster so it tapers down to the sheetrock, and then apply the tape. I like using the fiberglass mesh for something like this.

   You can feather by either  scraping, or by sanding. I actually prefer scraping for smaller areas; it creates less dust.

3. 
   cynwyd | Sep 07, 2005 07:47pm | #3

   Durabond works well here, glass tape the transition.

    

   http://www.cgcinc.com/pdf/datasheets/EJC_1507.pdf

   
   

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   Edited 9/7/2005 1:22 pm ET by cynwyd

4. 
   Jer | Sep 09, 2005 12:15am | #7

   Plasterweld.  Paint it on, tape your joints, skim it with durabond or plaster of P mixed with readymix, Sand or feather edges, paint it, forget about it and go have a beer.

5. 
   Shep | Sep 09, 2005 12:37am | #8

   Following this thread, I remembered something.

   The other thing I do, and forgot to mention, is I reverse the sheetrock. I put the back side out. It seems to hold the plaster coat better. I also usually brush some bonding agent on to help everything stick.