OK, don’t laugh.
I’m trying to finish off my wife’s new laundry room on a very tight budget. I’m considering putting in plywood counterops with a finished wood edge. Has anyone ever done this? Not sure of the finish, maybe shellac or poly. Any other (very) low-cost solutions? Counter is basically a laundry folding area.
Because of the oddball size of the countertop I would have to custom order a laminate top, which would be cost prohibitive.
What say Ye?
Mike K
Replies
Absolutely nothing wrong with that approach. You can use birch or some other hardwood-faced plywood to get a slightly harder, more durable surface, but standard AC is certainly sufficient for laundry room duty.
Several different ways to finish the edges. Strips of clear solid wood maybe 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick can be attached several different ways (nails, glue, biscuits, screws, etc), or, if the plywood doesn't have too many voids, you can just fill the voids and finish the raw edge.
You should probably pick a finish that's relatively water-resistant, such as spar varnish.
If I was going to go that route, I'd use MDO (instead of plywood) with a solid wood nosing. It's very water resistant, smooth and IMO wouldn't look too bad with a one inch oak nosing.
You could save yourself a step and use Baltic Birch or Apple Ply for the countertop, which costs a few bucks extra but the edge looks good enough that you don't need seperate edging. They even sell plastic laminate edging now that looks like Baltic Birch edge grain.
Be a little careful with thin edge banding. In this environment it's apt to get torn loose as things are dragged off the countertop. Whatever edging is used needs to be held on with something more substantial than contact cement.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Dan, maybe you didn't intend to respond to me. I was advocating for not using edgebanding at all."This is a process, not an event."--Sphere
I thought I'd set it to "ALL", but apparently it didn't take. Anyway, your post (or was it someone else's) wasn't clear on the point, so I thought I'd mention it.There's standard veneer edge banding and plastic laminate edge banding. Neither is really appropriate in this case, since they're not very durable. There is the molded plastic T-shaped edging, designed to fit into a slot in the edge, which can be durable if you get heavy-duty stuff and glue it in well. But solid wood is probably just as cheap, durable, and easy to do in this situation.There are also several metal edging options, but they're probably not a good choice here due to the possibility of sharp edges and snags. Snag milady's unmentionables and you'll never hear the end of it.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I will admit to once using left over vinyl floor tile in a similar, zero budget, situation. 3/4" plywood top, 1X2 pine, glued and nailed to revealed edge, vinyl tile carefully laid out and precut. Layout lines on plywood. If it's possible to limit the top to a total depth equalling two tiles, that will guarantee a decent looking job without needing a router or laminate trimmer. Prime and paint 1X2.
Edited 3/14/2007 5:51 pm ET by Hudson Valley Carpenter
Also, if you use wood edging, you can, eg, take a 1x2 and attach it vertically to the edge, creating a sort of "skirt" around the top (vs having the edging match the thickness of the plywood). This may (or may not) produce a "look" more to SWMBO's liking.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Absolutely. Dan said it all. I've done it many times with AC, sanded the top well, primed and painted with a tough industrial paint, it's a great work surface. I have painted counter tops with flat paints and designs, or decorative work like graining or ragging, then finished them with a clear varnish. You could do that with a marine spar.
If you are happy with a plywood/wood edge top why not go for it. There can be pitfalls with stability and how long it will last is some question but if it doesn't get too much moisture and you give it several coats of polyurethane it may surprise us. Laminate isn't forever either. Anyway apply the varnish as per manufacturers guide with maybe one more coat than they say. Generally the glossier sheens are the most durable and use exterior (spar varnish) if water is expected.
I've got a computer desk I built ca 1981, with 3/4 birch plywood. Many a glass/can/bottle of pop has sat on it, and more than a few spilled, but it still looks pretty good (when you can actually see the top for all the papers).
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I did that in our bathroom for awhile till we got some money and did formica, I used plywood and some oak strips i nailed and glued and then ran a router over it, I layed it out so when i got the fomica it was ready to go just took off the oak, Truth was it was really nice but not good near a sink but if there was no water i would do it again
In my old house in Fruitport I made a counter out of a Luan "mahogany" door and set it across four wall cabinets (in back to back pairs about 4' apart) on the floor and then glued a stair railing to the edge. The railing (glued on 90 degrees from its usual orientation--so its bottom was against the edge of the door) made it like a rolled edge. I liked it--don't know what the people who bought the house from me thought.
[That was the house where I had floors out of painted and varnished MDF (still rough and snaggy on stocking feet--I carpeted it to sell it) and had a built in desk made with Strofoam sandwiched between plywood. Also screwed KD shelf standards horizontally to the walls in a corner and slid plywood in to make shelves.]
Mike, I don't know if you are going for a particular 'look' but I have white cabinets in one of my rooms where I design jewelry & I made the counter top out of two 1x10's & one 1x8 braced together underneath. Finished the front & end edges with a 1.5" piece of molding, sanded it a bit & stained it all with the same stain used on the floors & I'm very pleased with it. It looks nice enough as well as artistic enough & the occasional dropped tool on it just gives it a bit of character.
plywood, glue a cheap formica on top. cut with router
Mike,
If you're going for a wood look, then buy some birch ply at the local home center/lumberyard, edge band it with some real wood (I prefer something ripped to 1 1/2" or so, thickness 1/2-3/4" ), Fit your plywood first, then add edging, some glue and a few clamps will work if you have a well sawn edge on your ply. Without a good tablesaw, the ply edge is not likely to be smooth enough for some of us. If that is the case with you, then you might like to rip it slighltly oversized and then trim a sixteenth or so with a router and guide so as to give a straight,smooth glue edge. Forget this if it looks like the edging will glue to your satisfaction. Anywhooo, glue on your edgeband, shape it if you want, or just leave it square edged. I did this in my first home as a bath vanity top and it held up well. At least 3 coats of poly, be sure to do edges and the bottom side at least once. Spar varnish is only special because it has UV inhibitors, not because it is stronger or holds up to water better. In fact, when it begins to wear through, it often requires complete stripping to make it look right(Oh No!!) My choice would be regular poly, even water based, quicker, cheaper and probably longer lasting. You may have to reapply every few years. For less than a hundred bucks, you'll have a great laundry/folding station.
good luck
Here's another vote for baltic birch ply, rout the front edge to the profile of your choice, and let it shine.
I did a laundry counter with 3/4" baltic birch, the 2" at the edge were doubled up, so the edge was 1 1/2" tall, with a 3/8" bullnose top and bottom. Looks great, and durable with a good finish on it.
zak
"When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin
"so it goes"
You just described the built-in desk my computer is sitting on. No room for counters in my laundry room, but the floor is also 2' by 2' squares of 3/4" birch ply. I agree the look is great.
I remember so many of the post war houses in the neighborhood where I lived 'till I was 12, had AC plywood used extensively throughout as a finish. Ours was your typical ranch that my parents got in the late 50's ($12,000...!!), and the kitchen cabs and a lot of the facia work was all plywood.
I have two computer/work tables I built back in the mid 80's that like Dan. have been beaten and dumped on more times than I can think of, holding up just fine. Both birch ply, one clear, one ebonized. They look great.
How about a sheet of melamine? already has a nice surface.
I checked tonight - 3/4" Oak Veneer ply is $40 for a sheet. For edging Oak 1x2 will cost about $15-$20. Looks doable for under $100 including finish. I decided I'm going to try shellac finish as the counter is for folding dry clothes and should not be exposed to moisture or chemicals.
Thanks for all your help!
87132.20 in reply to 87132.19
<< I decided I'm going to try shellac finish as the counter is for folding dry clothes and should not be exposed to moisture or chemicals.>>
Shellac is good for sealing, not as a finish. It's too brittle, crystalline. For a quick drying sealer you can cut white shellac 50/50 with alcohol. Then sand lightly and apply one or more coats of your favorite polyurethane finish.
Edited 3/15/2007 2:20 am ET by Hudson Valley Carpenter
<< Shellac is good for sealing, not as a finish. It's too brittle, crystalline. >>
Frenchy, are you out there??
Don't be too cavalier about the moisture angle -- it's not unlikely that a load of damp clothes could sit on the counter for a period of time.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Mike,
Chiming in late on your project. If you go with the shellac finish - sand ply progressive to 220, raise grain with a little water, sand lightly again with 320 just to remove the raised "hairs"; clean and tack; shellac; sand lightly with 320 (just enough to get rid of dust / gloss); clean and tack; repeat shellac/sand/ tack until you have a visible finish (typically 3 or 4 coats). Then wax the top with several coats of Butchers Wax or similar product. I think you will like it for your purpose. Wax will get beat up after some use - rewaxing = refinishing = easy.
Poly is more durable and water resistant - probably not an issue.
The oak ply will always show the charactristic oak "grain relief" with this finish, birch will be smoother. Also probably not an issue.
Good luck!
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
A cabinetmaker buddy of mine used to make bars. He told me one time about some sort of thick bartop finish which is poured on. Supposed to be really durable.
Might be too expensive for your budget.
Yeah, I think it some sort of Epoxy based clear finsh that is indestructible once dry.
Yeah, I've seen it sold as "bar topping", but Google doesn't find much with that name. "Countertop coating" finds several, though.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=293-001I think thats what he used. Never used it myself. Looks like it would be pretty pricey for a low budget job.Now that I think about it, most bars have edges to contain a poured on finish.I should have asked him and got the info before I posted, but I thought it would jog someone's memory.
Yeah, the bartop finish is almost bulletproof--I've used something called "Build-50" with pretty good results. These finishes are two part epoxies and are tough. I squeegeed mine on--sometimes it begins to set up before it's leveled itself if you just pour it on.
[I made a table out of plywood with epoxy finish--I actually made the edge by gluing layers of drywall tape with yellow carpenters' glue and then coated it with epoxy when the glue had set--worked surprisingly well!]
Edited 3/17/2007 10:00 am ET by Danno
I have used a product called Envirotex Lite many times on abuse prone areas like a bar top in a frat house and table tops in bars. It is a two part epoxy that goes on thick, you can embed stuff in it, and it is tough as nails but it is anything but cheap. On a top like the OP wants the materials would cost around $150 and you still have to have a good looking top under that. He could and can buy a Formica top for less than that.
I would call around to a couple of cabinet shops and see if I could go through their scraps and come up with some cut off pieces of melamine that could be pieced together to make a top but varnished plywood will look good too.
Our family, as well as most of my carpenter buddies, have plywood countertops. "I swear honey, I just need a month off, after the big remodel, and I'll have those countertops done. I mean, whats the big deal? We can live with plywood for a month or so, maybe two at the most. Well, sure there is a little water staining, maybe we should just put down some contact paper. Heck we can just change the contact paper when it gets ripped. Maybe I'll just wait till spring to finish the countertops. Hey, by the way, I was thinking maybe we should think about that second addition..."
<< "I swear honey, I just need a month off, after the big remodel, and I'll have those countertops done. I mean, whats the big deal? We can live with plywood for a month or so, maybe two at the most. >>
Actually I'm not considering the plywood as a temporary countertop. I'm considering to be the permanent finished top. The laundry room is in our new addition, which has been complete since December, so I guess "Honey I'll get to it" does apply.
Here is a picture of my design for the laundry table. I haven't shown it to the wife yet. I'm sure she won't be happy unless makes changes. Also a drawing of how I will construct it. Top will be 28" x 96". Should I run the 1 x 2 ribs in the other direction?
Hey Mike,
I just finished an oak bathroom vanity which has an oak plywood top. I used a finish product by Behlens called rockhard table top varnish. Supposed to be resistant to alcohol, water, heat, etc. You can order it from most ww supply places. I will attempt to attach a photo.
Mike, I was most definitely poking fun at the "temporary" plywood countertops in my house (in the kitchen, no less). I didn't even put a decent finish on (though I did glue on fir edge banding). Needless to say, they look like , well you get the idea. But soon, maybe this year, I'll get around to replacing them with something a bit more durable. I think in a relatively dry area, and with a good finish, plywood would serve just fine on a countertop. No offense intended.
What about melamine with either a hardwood edge or that iron on stuff. The top would certainly be waterproof. Not sure how the edge would be with the iron on stuff, but if you sealed the edges with either epoxy or a mixture of 1/2 glue & 1/2 water (paint it on), that should seal the end and then you'd never have to worry about it.Just my .02
Oh me achin's back!
Who's folding the laundry at your house? The kids?
The top looks too low for comfort, IMO.
I fold my laundry on our bed. The non-slippery quilt provides the right amount of "drag" for making crisp folds.
I DO love your idea of having a bin for each family member.
<< Oh me achin's back! Who's folding the laundry at your house? The kids? The top looks too low for comfort, IMO. I fold my laundry on our bed. The non-slippery quilt provides the right amount of "drag" for making crisp folds. >>
My wife currently folds the laundry on our bed, and it drives me crazy. The whole point of the new Laundry Room was to get the piles of clothes out of my room. The table top I designed is 36" above the floor. I mocked up several different counter hieghts and let me wife try them out. She was the most comfortable with 36". The folding is going to be done from a standing position.
I'm trying very hard to make laundry easier for the wife. We have 5 kids, so she does quite a few loads a week. I'm allow installing a desk area for her in one corner of the Laundry Room, so she can sip tea and browse for antiques on Ebay while doing Laundry. See attached.