Replies

1. 
   torn | Jun 14, 2006 12:22am | #1

   GFCI tripped?

   receptacles wired in series and the first one failed somehow?

   these are switched receptacles?

   when you say you have juice from the switch to the outlets, are you saying you tested the outlets and you have 120vAC there?  Or you checked at the switch with the switch on and found juice on the downstream side, so presumably it should continue to the recep?

   
   

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   Edited 6/13/2006 5:27 pm by torn

2. 
   chile_head | Jun 14, 2006 01:29am | #2

   I'm not an electrician, but...

   Try plugging in the test light, then turning on the shop vac. If the vac doesn't run, and the light goes out, you likely have high resistance somewhere upstream.

3. 
   MrBill | Jun 14, 2006 03:08am | #3

   adam,

    I have seem breakers fail this way. they will pass the voltage, but as soon as a load is applied, they cannot carry the current.

   Bill Koustenis

   Advanced Automotive Machine

   Waldorf Md

4. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 14, 2006 03:31am | #4

   Sounds like you have roots in your drain line that is blocking the JUICE. Have you tried roto-rooter?

   Maybe your problem is that the orange juice got into the voltage test and gummed it up so that it give false readins.

5. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 14, 2006 03:35am | #5

   What kind of "voltage tester" are you using? Many of them can give misleading information if you don't understand the limitations.

   Also you might have a high resistance connection. That will allow full voltage without any load. But if you have a load on it then you will have much less voltage at the load.

   Try pluging in a 100 watt light and then what does your voltage test indicate?

6. 
   Ray | Jun 14, 2006 03:37am | #6

   You might have a loose connection on a breaker in the box.  Turn off the main and make sure all the screws on the breakers are tight.  You can read the voltage at the outlet, it just can't pass any current.

1. 
   skyecore | Jun 14, 2006 04:26am | #8

   yikes! dont open the breaker box unless you are confident you know which things are still deadly to touch (a little different looking in different boxes) after turning off the main.______________________________________________

   --> measure once / scribble several lines / spend some time figuring out wich scribble / cut the wrong line / get mad

7. 
   maddog3 | Jun 14, 2006 04:09am | #7

   ....it sounds like you have an open neutral

   .

   .

   .

   .Wer ist jetzt der Idiot

   ?

1. 
   Gunner | Jun 16, 2006 12:31am | #20

     Ratz. I thought I was gonna be the first to say it.  Ohh well that's what I get for not paying attention.

    

    

   I like big butts and I can not lie.

1. 
   maddog3 | Jun 16, 2006 05:17am | #21

   .....ha ha.

   .

   .

   .Wer ist jetzt der Idiot

   ?

1. 
   Gunner | Jun 16, 2006 05:21am | #22

   I'll getcha. Just wait.

    

    

   Rock the Tipi!

8. 
   peteduffy | Jun 14, 2006 05:23am | #9

   Had some work done, building inspector tested the outlets in bathroom with his little GFCI tripper/tester.  Worked and passed inspection (it was on a GFCI breaker, not a dedicated GFCI receptacle.)  Then I went to plug in a radio, and it tripped the GFCI when I turned it on. (the GFCI tripped on the breaker, not the current overload).

   Turns out the GFCI breaker was installed incorrectly.  The pigtail neutral on the GFCI breaker wasn't hooked up right.

   Weird that the tester showed everything OK, but even a little current draw from the radio tripped the GFCI.

   Finally replaced the GFCI breaker with a standard one, and put dedicated GFCI receptacles in.  Works great now.

   Sounds a little similar to what you might have.  Hope my 2c helps, even if it's not the right 2c (then you've eliminated one more possibility!)

   Pete Duffy, Handyman

1. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 14, 2006 05:58am | #10

   It take about 5 ma of unbalanced current to trip a GFCI.The little neon lights in the "3 light receptacle tester" draw much less than that.

2. 
   BryanSayer | Jun 14, 2006 04:59pm | #12

   I know this is off topic, but why didn't you just install the GFCI breaker correctly?

1. 
   peteduffy | Jun 14, 2006 06:48pm | #13

   Wasn't me that installed it.  I came in after the fact and figured it all out.Pete Duffy, Handyman

9. 
   Norman | Jun 14, 2006 04:14pm | #11

   Never overlook the silly option.

   Does the vaccum work on another outlet? Is it possible the vaccum plug isn't contacting the connectors in the outlet? Sometimes the tines of the plug have to be bent a bit.

1. 
   adam22 | Jun 15, 2006 03:41am | #14

   You guys were  right on one thing. The tester showed power but there really was none. The switch to the room is in another room with 2 other switches. The other 2 switches work fine but the third switch to the room has no power. Dont understand how this can be since There is power to the other 2 switches. Im thinking of ronning a new line to the room and just kill that 3rd switch. Anyone have any other answers or solutions it would be much appreciated.  Thanks

1. 
   chile_head | Jun 15, 2006 04:21am | #15

   First, put down the test light. Step away slowly. Keep your hands visible. Electricity is a lot like water. It has a combination of flow (current) and pressure (voltage.) Turn on a tap just a little. Your tap is now a high resistance connection. Now stick your finger over the edge of the tap. The tap will build up to full pressure, and probally push your finger off. On the other hand, if you try to draw more flow, the pressure will drop and the water will return to a dribble. The problem is that a test light really doesn't draw a whole lot of current. It's sensitive, even to a high resistance connection: exactly what you normally want. In this case, though, try using a lamp (the 100W kind) to test for power. If the test light lights (you are talking about the conventional, two lead, test light, right?), but the lamp doesn't, you have a high resistance connection somewhere. Try to map out the circuit. If part of the circuit is hot, but the other half is dead, your problem likely lies in either the last hot receptacle/switch, or the first dead receptacle/switch. This can either be in the hot wire (usually black) or the neutral (always white. Although I'm sure somewhone who is actually an electrician will correct me.)If the entire circuit is dead, the problem likely lies at the panel, or at the first recpetacle/switch. If you're comfortable playing around inside a panel, I'd check your neutral bus, and then try swapping breakers (I'd just pull one off another circuit temporarily.) Make sure you check for corrosion while you are in there: my house had a panel that looked like the tetnus germ's state fair. Honestly, though, if I wasn't comfortable doing this, or unable to track it down, I'd call out an electrician. High resistance connections, by definition, get hot and can cause fires. Besides, it'l l be a whole lot easier, and probably cheaper, than pulling a new circuit (Have you seen the price of copper lately? Ouch!)Okay, I'm back to paperwork.

2. 
   DaveRicheson | Jun 15, 2006 01:27pm | #16

   The switch to the room is in another room with 2 other switches. The other 2 switches work fine but the third switch to the room has no power. Dont understand how this can be since There is power to the other 2 switches. Im thinking of ronning a new line to the room and just kill that 3rd switch. Anyone have any other answers

   How many hot feeds go into that three gang switch box? There may be more than one feed in there and the switch you found not working is on the now dead circuite.

   No point in pulling a new circuit just because you can't trouble shoot the existing one. Find the problem and fix it before someone gets hurt or the place catches fire from faulty wiring. If you can't do this yourself, hire and electrician.

   I agree with maddog. it could be an open neutral.

   Be safe.

    

   Dave

1. 
   adam22 | Jun 15, 2006 11:38pm | #19

   Thank you all for the imput. Ive decided to let a pro handle it before something bad happens. Thanks again andd be safe

3. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 15, 2006 03:37pm | #18

   Well you never indicate what kind of "tester" that you where using. Exactly what and where you where testing. Nor what the tester indicated.

10. 
    LeeLamb | Jun 15, 2006 02:41pm | #17

    Look at all the breakers again. Sometimes when a breaker trips it does not move to the off position even thought it is tripped. Before spending money on anything, sharply snap each breaker off and then back on. Yeah, I know you'll have to reset clocks but that is easier than pulling out your wallet. Good luck and keep your hands out of the breaker box unless you are competent and confident about what you're doing.