I have a pump in the basement for our well water (shallow well). The pump is mounted on a pressure tank. The highest pressure that I can achieve with the pump is about 50 psi. Isn’t there some way that I am supposed to increase the counterpressure in the tank? I have looked for a valve and not found anything.
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Well pumps are generally controlled by a pressure switch that is set to turn the pump off at a preset pressure. The switch usually has a 20psi differential between on and off. Common settings are 20/40, 30/50, and, I think, 40/60. These settings are generally preset at the factory and are not adjustable, if you want different settings, you need to buy a different switch. The pressure switch that I have now is mounted on the pump, although I think they can also be mounted on the tank or in the water line on the pressurized side of the pump.
The water pressure in home well water systems that I am familiar with are lower than those of municipal water systems. If you want something approaching the pressure of municipal systems, you will probably have to go with an additional booster pump and possibly with a second pressure tank to go with it.
Yeah, I've messed with that switch, trying to increase the pressure, but it seems to have maxed out.
I thought there was some way of increasing the pressure in the bladder in that tank.
Could be your pressure switch is bad, if you can't get any more pressure by adjusting it. (Or maybe you're adjusting the wrong thing?) After that, I'd say you're looking at pump problems.
The bladder tank you mention is just a "buffer" for the water pressure the pump puts out. You can't change your water pressure by messing with it.
"Tom Ridge announced a new color-coded alarm system. ... Green means everything's okay. Red means we're in extreme danger. And champagne-fuschia means we're being attacked by Martha Stewart." (Conan O'Brien)
You must also change the pressure in the pressure
tank bladder. If the bladder is 50 PSI and the switch
goes off at 60, you will collapse the bladder. As
soon as the pump shuts off, you will have only 50 PSI
in the system. The switch and the bladder pressure
need to be compatible. The tank manufacturer tells you
what pressure to use in the bladder for what switch you
use. There is a schrader valve on top of the tank
to charge the bladder. As the tank fills, the bladder
collapses and the pressure goes up. The bladder pressure
is somewhere around 40 normally when the tank is
empty. As it fills, the pressure goes up. The bladder
volume when it equals the switch pressure governs how
much water fits in the tank. Pressure too high, not much
volume. Pressure too low, system pressure will be low.
I thought that the bladder tank pressure was to be set just about the cut-in pressure for the pump pressure control switch(which is adjustable).
The initial bladder tank charge pressure has little or nothing to do with the cut off pressure of the water held in the tank.
At the point of cut off the compressed pressure of the bladder air will be the same as the cut off switch setting. Thic compressed air then expands to push the water from the bladder tank until the water pressure and bladder air pressure falls below the cut-in pressure which activates the pressure switch to run the pump again.
Change the bladder air pressure to coincide with the cut in pressure to balance out the system.
.................................as best my memory can serve me....................Iron Helix
p.s............it is important to balance the ambient air bladder pressure to the cut-in pressure point or you may "water log" to a point of short cycling. Look inside the pressure control cover for pressure adjustment criteria.
One of the most recent JLC issues has an article by Rex Caudwell about well H20 systems. Its a damn good article, well above the Mendoza line. Suggest you folks with questions about well systems get a copy.
I'm not trying to overly pimp their rag. Some of their articles are dismal. One horrible article that comes to mind was 1 they had about concrete countertops. A few months later FHB had a very good article on the same subject.
joe d
20642.6 in reply to 20642.5
"I thought that the bladder tank pressure was to be set just about the cut-in pressure for the pump pressure control switch(which is adjustable)."
Iron- You are correct. I recently replaced the bladder tank in my home. My switch is a 30/50 (and IS adjustable). The bladder tank was pre-charged at 27PSI (3 PSI below the cut it). The instructions with the tank said that the pressure could be increased if using a 40/60 switch. (again to 3 PSI BELOW the cut in pressure), or decreased if using a 20/40 (again 3 PSI below cut in pressure).
However, not ALL tanks are adjustable. I have seen some older ones that were precharged with no valve. Not all switches are adjustable either. Just depends on make and age.
Reading your orginal question it appears that you are saying that even if the pump runs continously then the pressure will never get above 50 psi.
NOT, that that control shuts off before getting to 50 psi.
If this is the case then the switch and tank have nothing to do with it.
If so the limitiation is in the pump. Now my application is pumping out of a lake so I have very low lift and I am not familar with pumping out of wells. But for many pump the max pressure is in the range of 50 psi.
I am not sure, but I think that you can a little more pressure, but less flow if you use a jet in the well setup.
I've lived in homes with well water most of my life and never saw one maintaining pressure more than 40-50#
It is also connected to pump capacity, size of line, length of line, lift, size of tank, etc. There are some instances where increasing your pressure can actaully decrease your flow. You can damage parts (as bladder mentioned) designed for a 50# system by going to a 70# pressure.
Why?
If it ain't broke, why break it?