Replies

1. 
   calvin | Jan 18, 2008 11:57pm | #1

   Glue (pl premium) and screw the treads to the stringers (pocket screws if you don't want surface plugs and screw from the backside of the riser into the tread.

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2. 
   Tobias | Jan 19, 2008 02:08am | #2

   The biggest offender for me when installing treads is squeaks at the front of the tread where the portion of the tread overhangs the riser and moves against the skirt. If the treads are too tight, they squeak, and too loose and a gap is visible. I suggest a stair jig, they pay for themselves pretty quick

1. 
   Dief | Jan 19, 2008 03:05am | #3

   I made a stair jig anticipating trouble with fitting the treads against the skirtboards.  To avoid squeaks how much of a gap do you recommend between the treads and the skirtboard?

1. 
   Tobias | Jan 19, 2008 03:54am | #4

   Less than a playing card, or lightly touching. In my experience it's the too snug ones that squeak or pop. I also have a pull saw that I have filled the rake of one side so I can put it up against the skirt and cut the tread a bit, if a squeak shows itself after the treads is all glued down. Are the skirts to be painted? If so, you have a tiny bit more latitude there.

1. 
   Dief | Jan 19, 2008 04:51am | #7

   No paint.  They will be finished with Siikens floor finish,

1. 
   Tobias | Jan 19, 2008 05:08am | #8

   Treads are housed/wedged into skirts, or butted into skirts? (I assumed butted with my advice.) Also, if the treads are 1" that should also help with any movement at the nosing.

3. 
   Piffin | Jan 19, 2008 04:03am | #5

   Housed or cut stringers?

    

    

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1. 
   Dief | Jan 19, 2008 04:47am | #6

   Housed.  5 to a landing and then 7 to the top.

1. 
   Piffin | Jan 19, 2008 05:10am | #9

   OK, I work with cut stringers, glue and screws. I don't have experience with housed. 

    

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1. 
   Tobias | Jan 19, 2008 05:21am | #10

   How do you hide the screws, bungs?

1. 
   Shep | Jan 19, 2008 05:45am | #11

   With either cut stringers, or housed, you can use pocket screws from underneath/ behind.

   all screws hidden; no bungs needed.

2. 
   Tobias | Jan 19, 2008 06:23am | #12

   if you have access. I've got a stair coming up on a house I'm building, and am thinking of having the plasters leave the well to the basement undone, just so I can hide all fasteners. Kind of turns trimming the stairs into a 2 man job though. (The stair have a plywood permanent sub riser and tread already on for rough in)

3. 
   Shep | Jan 20, 2008 06:09am | #14

   With a permanent plywood rise and tread already in place, I'd be tempted to tack the finish rise and tread on with a few brads from a nail gun, using generous amounts of construction adhesive, then screwing everything from behind.

4. 
   mathewson | Jan 19, 2008 07:16am | #13

   The most important thing you can do is use plenty of good construction adhesive. I've done them with screws & bungs, finish nails, hardwood flooring,etc. and nothing beats good adhesive on clean carriages. If you are going to do a full housed and wedged stair I'm currently doing one which is housed on the wall side and mitered on the open side and could provide some pics which could help.