New member looking for some help. No construction experience, trying to learn while having a new house built.
New windows started going in today. Was planning on using 5/4 Miratec trim for windows. The windows dont have a J channel but do have a slight lip around the face that forms a small channel. Lip is probably 1/8 inch and the channel looks to be about an inch deep. 5/4 trim want go into channel due to flange. I was thinking about rabbeting some off the miratec to get into the channel and have a nice caulk joint. My carpenters that will be putting the stuff up wanted to switch to 2x material for the trim which will stick out alot around the window. I dont think that will look good. Also concerned about expansion with the trim tight to the window. Any advice?
Replies
Window trim
Your concern about how the final window appearance looks is a concern, however this would not be my primary concern. You need to have your contractor give you a full diagram on how he will install this window trim and how he willl flash this window trim to the building structure in both propser ways of installation. And then re-post tosee if he is doing it properly.
Paul
Please post a link............
to the windows and probably one that takes us to their detail page. The install instructions would be a help also.
I wouldn't be too keen on rabbiting the miratec, which would expose the innerds of that material. The outer skin on the miratec seals out the elements.
Please
what brand and model of window. the descripotion makes no sense to me. Are you saying there is no nailing flange?
The windows are Shwinco 9000 series impact windows. They have a nailing flange but what I am talking about is just a small lip around the outer edge of the window. The part that extends from the wall.
How should the trim be flashed, because from talking to the carpenters it sounds like the trim will just be nailed to the wall and caulk where it touches the window?
That is the right way to do that. The little bump you describe is to keep the casing from being installed too tight. If tight, it can swell and put pressure on the unit, making it hard to operate. The space serves as a drip channel.
Flashing is done under the casing at bottom and over it at top.
They are using a housewrap and seal strip, right?
Yes they put up house wrap and used tape around the windows. I have attached some pictures of the window and the trim. The first pic is trying to show what a mean by a lip and the channel. The second pic shows a sample of 5/4 miratec butted tight to the window. The third shows the miratec trim left about 1/8 away from the lip. Which would be better. I know the 1/8 will give me room for expansion, but does Miratec expand much on its width? Any suggestions would be great.
When I repleid earlier that they had the right way of doing it, IMO, I meant the thicker mtl that would project past the thickness of the window. If I were using the Miratec, I would shim behind it to bring it out further on the face .
Today, I recd a reply from the company with drawings on PDF. It shows something different from your photos though.
It has a deep U channel around the window, and the ext trim is shown fit up into that channel. I would hesitate to fit real wood into that, as it seems it would trap water there. a PVC type molding might be OK with caulk.
I guess you'd have to go with the installers advice, since they can see all aspects of this.
I think we have decided to just shim the Miratec out past the window with some 1/4 inch material. Was thinking of just cutting strips of luan and nailing and glueing it to the back of the Miratec and then putting a coat of white paint on all sides. Does this sound okay or would there be a better method to shim it?
Luan will get soggy over the years. I like to rip scrap PT on the tablesaw. Even ripped stud scraps would be better than luan. Another option - here you can still buy plasterlathe, whgich runs about 5/16" dry
So you would just rip 1/4 x 1 1/2 inch strips from the PT, nail that to stud and the nail MIratec through the shim? Or would you rip the 3 1/2 way? Also, is it ok to leave a gap over the nail flange?
I rip it to 1/4" x 1-1/2" and
I rip it to 1/4" x 1-1/2" and use small brrads to tack it to the back of the trim before putting it up. The Miratec might be too dense to do that way unless you have a power pinner so you may need to putt it on the wall first. Not sure what you mean about gap over nail flange
First of all I just want to thank you for the time and help you have given so far. I know I am asking lots of questions. The guys that will be hanging the trim are mainly framers that are staying on the job to help out so I am trying to make sure I know what should be done.
As far as the gap that I am talking about, If i nail the 1/4 shim to the trim it would need to be on the outside part so it sits flush to the sheathing which would create a gap between the back of the trim and the nail flange area. Does that make since? Will prob use a crown stapler to nail the shims to the trim and then put a coat of primer over the shim and put a finish coat on the front of the trim before hanging.
Any thoughts on pre-building the trim with pocket screws before putting up? Would you leave a gap between the lip on the window and the trim or just put it flush to the lip and caulk the joint?
Thanks again.
I see now
I usually ignore the thickness of the nailing flange. Maybe yours is such that it needs to be accounted for.
Some guys do pre-assemble the whole trim surrond with pocket screws and glue. It is even possible to buy them premade from Azek around here to fit cerain brands of window
If the windows are as good as their site is easy to navigate....
I'd find another window.
Please insert a link to the detail drawings of this 9000 series.
Whew!
That has to be the worst website I have seen in years now!
If it isn't the worst............
you can see it from there.
I sent the sales manager a message from tjhe contacts page, and got an istant reply, "I will be out of the office until Monday October 3rd. If you need immediate assistance please contact the office"
That was helpful too
Have decided to use KDAT 2x material for all window trim and corner boards. Still prob going to use some MIratec on the band board and the frieze board though.
Thanks for all the help!