Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 17, 1999 07:27pm | #4

   *
   Does anyone have an internet or other reference they would be willing to share on designing and building a home fire protection sprinkler system for inside a home? Is it likely that the various fire marshalls would accept copper tubing in such a system rather than black pipe, or would they figure that a fire away from a sprinkler head could soften the solder and compromise the system?
   I would be particularly interested in hearing about any system that utilized an electronic sensor to trip a solenoid at a remote location that was safe from feezing and perhaps utilized tubing to get the water to the dispersion point.
   Soft of like the old dry systems used in cold climates but hopefully less difficult and less costly.

   thanks, Casey

1. 
   Guest_ | May 27, 1999 08:22am | #1

   *Casey, look under http://www.nfpa.org for the standard applicable to residential sprinklers.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 28, 1999 02:13pm | #2

   *Casey: When you say an electronic sensor, do you mean like a smoke detector? I'd be worried about all the possible false alarms. Whereas the heat-activated ones (about 200 degrees?) aren't going to trip when you burn the toast. Copper versus threaded steel: ask your inspector. If it was a commercial installation that required such a system, you'd have to use steel. But since this protection isn't required, s/he may well approve of copper. Note that 95/5 lead-free solder will go to a higher temp than 50/50 lead-tin and, if need be, you could use a silver solder for higher temps. You'd have to boil all the water out of the pipe before any solder could fail. I'd feel better about copper if it was behind the sheetrock.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 28, 1999 04:33pm | #3

   *Casey - Our local inspector says copper is fine.Spears company makes a CPVC pipe for fire service as well. They advocate it mainly for the final connections - to ease positioning of heads. I also read in a trade magazine recently where there are now flexible connections approved which allow you to put heads exactly where you want them, allowing sloppier rough-in and precise placement of the head.He also said that he wants to see my sheet of flow calulations and the sprinkler heads - that's it. He told me "if your putting in dummy heads to lower your insurance your only fooling - or killing - yourself."Dry systems are fine, but the solenoid valve won't float with the NFPA. The solenoid induces a point for failure. What you would do is install a schrader valve on the frozen branch of the system and pressurize the system with air before filling the system with water. Obviously - the frozen leg would have to be high in the system - attics, etc. For areas where you cannot air purge you would have to use anti-freeze mix. This precludes the use of "combined" piping where DCW (domestic cold water) and fire protection come from the same pipes.The NFPA also wants no valves anywhere in the system. In commercial applications there are procedures for notifying insurance companies and fire departments when shutting off a branch for repair. In a home it is incredibly easy to forget to turn them back on.Residential sprinklers differ from commercial in a few ways, and they use different heads. Residential sprinklers are designed to protect the occupants, not the property or contents. However, a friend who is a fire-inspector says houses with sprinklers "don't burn." He even told me of outrageous arsons that were stopped dead. He did mention that the chief of a local district built a new, voluminous house without any sprinklers - so you decide.-Rob

1. 
   David_McWethy | Jun 17, 1999 07:27pm | #5

   *For the best information for designing a residential fire sprinkler system ask your local fire official if you can borrow or get a copy of "Section 13R" of the National Fire Protection Association code. If you live within a medium-to-large city, the fire officials may require you to meet all of the 13R standards or you will not be allowed to install ANY residential fire sprinkler system. One consideration: A 13R system requires at least a 2" copper water line feed from the city main to the interior controls, separate from the domestic portable water line for the residence. This can be a deal-breaker, especially if you're trying to retrofit....