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Hi Guys,
I need some ideas about how to protect furniture from UV exposure.
Over the last several years I’ve made several pieces of furniture for a client who lives in a large open space with skylights and western exposure: there is a lot of light in the space. Everything in her apartment fades because of the light exposure – the floors, the rugs, the paintings, etc.
The most important piece I made for her is shown below.
It’s a solid bubinga slab table over a solid bubinga base. When first delivered, the top had remarkable figure in it and a wonderful rich red color. After only a couple of months the table begun to fade. Two years later, it is but a shadow of it’s former self. The heart wood has faded to a light brown color – the sap wood is dull and uninteresting. And the figure is lost in the dullness of the top.
I’ve asked a couple of finishing experts about how to protect the table. And both of them say that there is not much I can do from a finishing standpoint.
However the client realizes that this is not my problem and is looking for solutions. Since I’m not a construction person, so I though I would ask this forum for help. Are there window films, treatments, or windows themselves that would protect against UV? Any other ideas from a construction standpoint?
Thank you for your help.
Replies
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I went through this..with a client a few years ago..Very expensive Silk rugs / artwork / etc...
The first caveat I have is...
Do Not...use 3M film...on the windows...
It causes the rays of the sun..to be reflected to the interior between the glass pieces[if dual glazed]and fries the seals because of the heat buildup. The glass of my clients windows were so hot, you could not touch the top of the window with your bare hand.
The solution we came up with, was gained after a great deal of time and energy spent with national glazing experts...
Email me...and we can talk..about solutions...
[email protected]
David Nickelson
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Is it possible that the bubinga naturally ages in this way? For example black walnut is purple when it is first cut, but turns dark brown after exposure to air.
-Rob
*Kim, most marine-formula spar varnishes use a UV inhibitor. One word of caution... go expensive.Try and get the European/English varnishes, as the formulations are more "authentic" than our "clean air formula" versions. See Woodenboat Magazine for possible sources.
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Kim-
Pretty much every museum and historic house faces
this same problem. There are several approaches to
address it. UV window films are routinely used to
cut UV down, which will slow, not eliminate
fading. Remember, exposure is a function of
intensity over time. I don't know about the double
glazing problem mentioned by David since historic
houses I deal with don't have it. Anyway, they
come in a variety of shades and intensities but
have a lifespan, meaning they have to be peeled
off and replaced every several years, how long (5
years-10 years) depends on how much sun blasts
them.
The second approach comes from old-fashioned house
keeping: Close the drapes when the sun comes in.
If these skylights don't have blinds, they should.
You can get UV filtering Venetian blinds from
Windoware in California. Your clients should keep
the sun out when they're at work and not there to
enjoy it. A historic house that is closed 6 mos.
in the winter that keeps all the shades drawn when
no one's around cuts the overall exposure by
almost half right off the top. This is the same
reason why in old movies furniture has dropcloths
over it when the occupants deprt or arrive at
their summer house. Everything fades, they knew
it, and textiles cost more back then.
Third, there are additives you can put in
furniture finishes to also slow UV damage. Like
the UV films, they eventually get "used up" and
the piece will need refininshing. Beware of waxes
and other proprietary formulas that claim UV
protection. Since their effectiveness is
concentration dependent, which is a function of
thickness, to work as promised you'd have to put
so much on you wouldn't be able to see the table.
My parents have a walnut dining room table I made
for them about 15 years ago. It lives under a
skylight. It showed to significantly fading after
only 2 years. Solution: a tablecloth. Hasn't faded since.
sincerely,
Jennie
*Kim-Pretty much every museum and historic house faces this same problem. There are several approaches to address it. UV window films are routinely used to cut UV down, which will slow, not eliminate fading. Remember, exposure is a function of intensity over time. I don't know about the double glazing problem mentioned by David since historic houses I deal with don't have it. Anyway, they come in a variety of shades and intensities but have a lifespan, meaning they have to be peeled off and replaced every several years, how long (5 years-10 years) depends on how much sun blasts them.The second approach comes from old-fashioned house keeping: Close the drapes when the sun comes in. If these skylights don't have blinds, they should. You can get UV filtering Venetian blinds from Windoware in California. Your clients should keep the sun out when they're at work and not there to enjoy it. A historic house that is closed 6 mos. in the winter that keeps all the shades drawn when no one's around cuts the overall exposure by almost half right off the top. This is the same reason why in old movies furniture has dropcloths over it when the occupants deprt or arrive at their summer house. Everything fades, they knew it, and textiles cost more back then. Third, there are additives you can put in furniture finishes to also slow UV damage. Like the UV films, they eventually get "used up" and the piece will need refininshing. Beware of waxes and other proprietary formulas that claim UV protection. Since their effectiveness is concentration dependent, which is a function of thickness, to work as promised you'd have to put so much on you wouldn't be able to see the table.My parents have a walnut dining room table I made for them about 15 years ago. It lives under a skylight. It showed to significantly fading after only 2 years. Solution: a tablecloth. Has
*I didnt mean to be mysterious...We spent...a good deal of time..investigating the problem of UV and Heat Transfer...My clients dual glazed windows were failing because they had a film on the inside..for uv protection..which causes the rays to be reflected to the interior space..between the glazing...Before replacement, on a sunny day, you could not put your hands along the top of the windows..Solution:Dual Glazed panes...One which was Low E2 the other...was laminated....I believe..the lammy is on the inside..The solution was not cheap...we replaced 59 panes of glass...however...it was quite effective.My client...has...expensive silk rugs / artwork...and I have received no complaints from either the UV issues..or the heating issues...We have had..some problems..with leaking..as some of these were replaced in wood sash openings...and his exposure is extreme...However..all in all...I feel the installation was a success...given the criterion...DN
*Hello to all,Pardon the PLUG, but we have a unique product that is directly on topic.Loewen Windows has introduced a new option for its full line of West Coast Douglas Fir windows and doors - Tranquility Glazing Systems. Tranquility glass is a sealed unit built with laminated glass on the interior and a thick (6 mm), single outer pane. The wide, argon gas-filled airspace and heavy sash construction make for a remarkable window. Operable Tranquility casement windows test to an STC 40* - to put this in perspective, typical double glazing has an STC of 29 - 32. Tranquility is a favorite choice for airport sound mitigation programs in North America. Built primarily as a noise abatement product, the laminated glass offers the added benefit of high UV blockage - nearly complete UV protection is afforded (over 98%). Another 'side' benefit is the product's high degree of resistance to opportunistic break-ins - break & enter attempts will be thwarted or greatly impeded.Thermal performance is comparable to other products in the Loewen line of glazing options; A Low e Tranquility provides approximately R4. I hope that this information is useful to those of you with UV and/or noise issues.Tranquilty Glazing System information is not yet up on our website, http://www.loewen.com, but you may check the site for information on our product line and our company, in general. If you need specific information on Tranquility, please e-mail [email protected] or call 1-800-563-9367Regards,Mitch ToewsMarket Research DirectorLoewen Windows* The Loewen casement tests to STC (Sound Transmission Classification) 40 without a fixed storm panel. Many other brands use an additional fixed storm panel to improve their STC ratings. However, a fixed pane on an operable window effectively eliminates the window's venting and egress capabilities. Several distinct proprietary differences in our design make it possible for us to achieve STC 40 in a fully operable unit.
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You didn't mention if the skylights were plastic or glass. Glass has some UV protection that plastic lacks. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think you can get a sunburn thru glass for instance.
The marine grade varnish with UV protection sounds like a good idea. You might be able to plane the piece down an 1/8th of an inch or so and refinish the top to its former glory. Hopfully the damage is only skin deep.
Shade screen would help the vertical windows (outside), and could be used inside the skylight wells as well. The heat build up from the silver colored films may be due to their low emmissivity, especially if there is no wind. Shiney silver colored objects in the sun can get very hot, despite the fact you'd think they'd reflect sunlight.
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Hi Guys,
I need some ideas about how to protect furniture from UV exposure.
Over the last several years I’ve made several pieces of furniture for a client who lives in a large open space with skylights and western exposure: there is a lot of light in the space. Everything in her apartment fades because of the light exposure - the floors, the rugs, the paintings, etc.
The most important piece I made for her is shown below.
View Image
It’s a solid bubinga slab table over a solid bubinga base. When first delivered, the top had remarkable figure in it and a wonderful rich red color. After only a couple of months the table begun to fade. Two years later, it is but a shadow of it’s former self. The heart wood has faded to a light brown color - the sap wood is dull and uninteresting. And the figure is lost in the dullness of the top.
I’ve asked a couple of finishing experts about how to protect the table. And both of them say that there is not much I can do from a finishing standpoint.
However the client realizes that this is not my problem and is looking for solutions. Since I’m not a construction person, so I though I would ask this forum for help. Are there window films, treatments, or windows themselves that would protect against UV? Any other ideas from a construction standpoint?
Thank you for your help.
Kim Carleton Graves
Carleton Woodworking