Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 17, 1999 11:29am | #1

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   It's unfortunate your client didn't have the foresight to install an electric radiant mat when the floor was tiled.

   Without knowing much else, I'd venture one of the easier ways would be to install a small electric water heater near or in the bath. The water heater could be set to 95 degrees or as required. The bath thermostat would run to a relay box where it would kick on a circulating pump when heat is called for. Due to the limited demand on the heater it could be small capacity, and running off electricity would allow you to place it most anywhere. If space allows it could be placed in the bath closet for easy access to the heaters temp setting in case adjustment is required for some reason by the homeowner.

   There are obvious limitations to a simple setup like this, but it eliminates the need for additional hardware.

   I'm sure others will have novel ideas, this is the best I can do at this ridiculous hour!

   Good luck, consider a follow-up post with your solution.

   Regards, Mongo

2. 
   Drinkman | Aug 17, 1999 11:31pm | #2

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   Mongo, thanks for the info. It wasn't until I re-read my initial message that I realized the mistake. The floor is not yet tiled, it is to be a newly tiled floor. However, the client is extremely energy consumption cautious. What can you tell me about these Electric floor mats you mention?

3. 
   Guest_ | Aug 18, 1999 03:33am | #3

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   To add ideas to Mongo's good advice, another after thought would be to use electrical heating cables.

   These are commonly used to prevent pipes from freezing in the winter. They are thermostatically controlled and not that expensive.

   Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 18, 1999 08:43am | #4

   *Think of the mats as an electric blanket that is put down in the thinset below the tile. It's simply a resistance-type heating cable. Low profile, it can be placed either in a slab, in a thick mud layer, or most commonly, in a thinset layer right below the tile. Though electric, they are reasonably efficient. It's the only type of "electric heat" I'd ever recommend in a house. I'm in New England, though, where elec is pretty expensive.For a better description of the materials (one manufacturer's anyway), try: SunTouch, http://www.bask.net, 888-432-8932There are several other manufacturers, a few searches should turn up more info. Good luck, Mongo

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 18, 1999 01:34pm | #5

   *Drinkmeister,All the above suggestions are great.At the risk of suffering the wrath of my boiler purist contemporaries, I would offer you this alternative:Since it is only a bathroom(probably only for warm tootsies, eh?). Tap off of the existing hot water heater. A check valve, stainless or bronze circulator with timer to automatically purge loop(s) during the off season and a simple line voltage air and/or floor temperature sensing thermostat will do the trick.It may of course could be a bit more involved than this, but not much. Your local codes may preclude, a minimum vessel storage temperature may have to be maintained and if the water heater stat is mandated at 120F or below(in some code jurisdictions) a tempering valve may be necessary for occupant safety. Any tube/component that is used on a combo system must be approved for potable water. NSF PEX as well as copper should be no problem. You can't fly by the seat of your pants on the words I speak. You must first verify the blessings of your local code officials. If they bestow their blessings on the above strategy, there is no reason every bathroom you touch shouldn't have warm floors. Mind you, there is a point at which you should avail yourself of professional advice to determine whether the combined load of floor heating and domestic water heating could exceed the capacity of the water heater.Email me with your particulars. I will email you back a diagrahm of the piping arrangement and a synopsis of the suggested industry guidelines.

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   Guest_ | Aug 18, 1999 05:36pm | #7

   *The electric mat is the way to go. It's easy to install, no moving parts, inexpensive to buy, can be inexpensive to run too. Since it's electric you can install a timer switch in addition to the thermostat. I used the cable type (not woven into a mesh mat). It was easy to install but required a wet bed since it is about 1/4" in diameter. It is very rugged cable with a full braided ground around the heated wire core. For a 9 x 12 master bath it's about 800 watts. The newer type with the mesh mat is much thinner and can be burried in the thinset.Jim

4. 
   Drinkman | Aug 18, 1999 05:36pm | #6

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   I have a client who is interested in adding a loop of radiant floor heating under a newly tiled bathroom floor. Access from below is easy, so it will be no problem putting in the tubing, etc. However, there is no boiler in the house. The home runs on a two year old high efficiency gas furnace. Does anyone know of a way to do this? Is the only option replacing the furnace with a boiler? Could a point of use hot water heater solve this problem? Any help would be appreciated.