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Mitch, there is a wonderfull tool for those of us with more desire to finish the work than experience in how it should be done. Get a small tube with an inside diameter just over the size of the screw that snapped off (from the hardware store) sharpen it, and file some teeth in it and you can drill oround the obstructive screw it will take you an hour and you’ll keep the tool forever and remember to clamp and drill next time. Or Ive seen it advertized in the old Leightung catalogue.
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Mitch, there is a wonderfull tool for those of us with more desire to finish the work than experience in how it should be done. Get a small tube with an inside diameter just over the size of the screw that snapped off (from the hardware store) sharpen it, and file some teeth in it and you can drill oround the obstructive screw it will take you an hour and you'll keep the tool forever and remember to clamp and drill next time. Or Ive seen it advertized in the old Leightung catalogue.
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Maybe this is moot for this event. But perhaps you can file it for the next! Use paste wax to lube your screws before inserting them. I have used a variety of waxes over the years but now have settled on good old Johnson Paste Wax. Works great.
*Fred , Where do you get your johnsons paste wax? The stores around here don't carry it any more , had to use Buthers wax and I don't like it as wellas the yellow can.
*Try the cleaning/polish supplies section in your local supermarket. I think most of the majors in North America carry Johnsons.
* Mitch,
Joseph Fusco View Image
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A small(!?!) problem has arisen...
Was joining to cabinets...Predrilled through face of one into another...So far so good. Upon driving screw three quarters of the way I heard that ever terrifying snap! pop!...the screw had snapped off. Now there is a minimal but maximal gap at that point between those two particular cabs...All others mounted and look great...Wondering if anyone might have a suggestion for removing this rogue screw without splitting the face frame of the boxes. My only other option is a small moulding over the seam which is not blocked by any door as it is a shelf box.
Also...Any suggestions for the safe drilling of faucet holes in SSV integral sink countertop...Does it drill like any old laminate top?
By the way...I love this friggin' message board...
Thanks for all the help.
Mitch
*If I get this straight, you were trying to suck up a gap between the face frames with a screw. When the screw broke, you were left with threads in both face frames holding them apart. This result was predictable. You should have held the cabintes together with clamps, and/or drilled a pilot hole all the way through the first face frame. There is no reason to have threads engaged in both pieces.That's what you should have done. Now, you can try clamping the frames together. Perhaps they will suck up with a clamp. Otherwise, drill around the screw with a small bit until they do suck up. Then you can either take one down and remove the screw with Vice Grips or pilot a new hole and put in a new screw to hold them together. In any case you will have to remove the doors.