Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 02, 1999 12:55am | #1

   *
   Lisa,

   I don't know if this is of any use to you, but I remember doing one where cost was a major factor,and all I did was drywall to within 1" of the units in place and used a drywall stop or J mould. Kinda like picture framing them in place.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 02, 1999 01:48am | #2

   *Are these the large radiators or the baseboard style radiators? I have to confess I've not seen houses as new as 30 years old that had cast iron radiators in them.Hate to say it but in everyone I've seen the drywall was put up before the baseboard units were installed so there isn't enough clearance to drywall without removing them. Plus, most of the units I've seen have their backers integral to the fin unit.The upside of removing is that if they are 30 years old this will give you a chance to inspect the pipes to see if they are restricted and to replace those that are. Thirty years ago they were using copper so the job won't be THAT bad.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 03, 1999 11:05am | #3

   *Lisa, Fred makes a good point, perhaps after 30 years a look-see inside these radiators would be of value.

2. 
   Jeff_P | Apr 04, 1999 10:04pm | #4

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   Because a hot water heating system is a "closed" system and the water is not refreshed through the pipes each time, the piping and rads should be completely free of and restriction. I have renovated heating systems from the early 1900's and reused the piping with no problems. As for the baseboard, you say you think it's castiron but then you say there are fins. Cast iron base is solid cast iron that is hollow inside for the water to go through. You would have to drain the system, unhook the piping, and unscrew the base to strip it. Best to sandblast it. Unless it is just in too bad a shape to do in place, I would clean it up and paint it there.
   If there are fins you must have some kind of convector or copper baseboard. In that case you may be able to remove the covers and strip and paint. Could you give a better description on what you have?

1. 
   scottl | Apr 06, 1999 06:17am | #5

   *I also have a 30 year old house with forced hot water baseboard heat. The radiators are Slant Fin Sheet Metal. What is the best way to refurbish these? Mine have a few coats of paint that I would like to remove. Can I remove the sheetmetal and leave the copper and fins? Is new sheetmetal available that I could replace while leaving the copper and fins in place?

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 06, 1999 11:10pm | #6

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   All the hot water baseboard systems I'm familiar with do have a provision for make-up water. If some type of anti-freeze is installed then typically the system is isolated either manually or by a check valve. But the water is generally domestic water with mineral content of whatever is common to the geographic area.

   So, if the area has a lot of water soluable minerals the pipes could be restricted. If few minerals the pipes could be clean. Can't tell without looking.

   Once uninstalled the units can be cleaned and refurbished using mechanical and chemical cleaners. Depending on brand, style etc replacement parts may be available. But, I think it would be worth it if they need parts just to buy new and save a bunch of labor.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 09, 1999 05:46am | #7

   *I have done this in my place in La Crosse, WI. New baseboard is about $4.50/foot wholesale. I trashed mine by leaving the fins standing while I removed the board from behind where the radiators were, placing new plaster board, taping and priming. When that was done, I put in new baseboard complete with fins. You have to do a bit of soldering, but it is not that difficult. the cost of materials was roughly 70 to 80 per room so for me, it didn't seem worh the time and money to try and patch in the dry wall. If the wood trim is .50 per foot, the radiators are only $4.00 per foot additional - and my old ones had layers of ugly paint on them as well. Hope this helpsDennis

4. 
   PhillyD | Apr 09, 1999 11:00pm | #8

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   It's just not worth the time and trouble of stripping/scraping old paint off of baseboard covers.

   You can buy them without the coppertube/fins assembly. They are primed out of the box. Get some rustoleum-type paint (spray looks better).

   Been there, Phil

5. 
   Guest_ | Apr 10, 1999 01:02am | #9

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   Phil,

   Even nicer is to go down to your local buddy who owns a auto paint shop and let him spray your favorite BMW colors on your baseboards and metal entry doors....Big wow-time results!!!

   Near the stream,

   J

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 13, 1999 05:58pm | #10

   *Hey Jack,Will he do Milk Paint?Steve

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 14, 1999 04:30am | #11

   *Never saw BMW's milk paint chip card in all my travels....a rural thing?Near the stream, not a cow to tip,J

6. 
   Lisa_W | Apr 25, 1999 04:07am | #12

   *
   Hi! Wow,thanks everyone for your input! Sorry it's
   taken me so long to reply but I had trouble with
   the server every time I tried.
   Here's my answers to the questions: My
   baseboards are iron or steel as they attract a
   magnet, but, the pipes inside are copper with
   fins. I'm told removing the fins to either check
   or redo is very labor intensive as there are many
   joints that would have to be "sweated". I have no
   experience with plumbing and envision water
   spraying out when I started the system up if I
   tried to do it myself--or is it easier than I
   think?
   As to water content, we live in an area with very
   hard water, but have a water softener. I am at the
   bottom of a steep learning curve here--I dont know
   what that means in terms of mineral build up.
   Do you think new baseboard covers would work with
   my old units? The idea of having them painted by
   an auto body shop sounds good or, an appliance
   painter, but I worry about cost.
   So far, the best idea is to cut off the dry-wall
   just below the baseboard top and re-drywall on
   top--but boy I'd like to hear others--I worry
   about making a good fit.
   Thanks

7. 
   Guest_ | Apr 25, 1999 04:33am | #13

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   Hi Lisa,

   You don't have to be too concerned with fitting. Your lumberyard can supply you with drywall J trim which would give you a clean start and finish to your drywall edges.

   I still would recommend picture framing the hot water heaters and staying a good 1/2" minimum away from the units. Or you should be able to butt against them, but that's not always the best to finish.

   Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 25, 1999 05:23am | #15

   *If these are what I visualize from your description I still would recommend taking at least a couple radiators completely out of the system. They should be able to be removed as a unit by disconnecting at each end. Then inspect them for mineral buildup and general condition. If you are happy then reinstall and drywallaround all the rest.If not, then you will need a contractor to examine all the piping, clean or replace as necessary. That may be a lot money but it will be a lot easier to reassure yourself that your system is good for another 30 years.

8. 
   Lisa_W | Apr 25, 1999 05:23am | #14

   *
   I'd like to see some discussions about techniques involved in
   the remodeling of homes with baseboard heat. I have 30 year-old baseboard
   heat and info seems hard to come by. Does anyone have experience or info on
   the painting of baseboards(what to use--how to strip), how to
   remove the cases in order to paint them (mine are cast iron I think and the
   top part is nailed in place), how to drywall without removing the fins and
   costing the big big bucks.
   Thank