Replies

1. 
   CapnMac | Jul 03, 2007 06:48am | #1

   Thanks for your thoughts.

   Well, 1 & 2 are really the same question, as far as the house is "concerned."

   Now, a tiny dash of clarity will be needed here.  Is your house a frame house with a brick veneer; or a true brick-structured house (with brick veneer)?

   The "trick" of wider openings in either case comes down to lintels.   In multi-wythe brick construction, these could be masonry.  Wider opening is typically a matter of getting the old lintel out and the new in (if it's a brick keystoned lintel, that can be a tad more excitement).

   Now, if it is a frame house, then the trick of wider openings is in how to get the steel lintel angle set from the "wrong" side.  (Normally, the mason sets the angle across the adjacent brickcourse, and against the sheathing, then courses brick over that.)  It can be messy while it happens, but it cleans up very nicely.

   Now, 3 has many answers.  Frame construction is often cheaper than masonry--so an addition in masonry may not be very likely.  The real issue is more on how the new floor plan will integrate the old and the new.  There can be very good reasons to preserve the existing "fabric" of the building--but not if you are adding a 3' bump out.  The plan is the thing. 

   Now, you may be asking more about can a person transition building materials.  The answer to that is "Yes."  Like every thing else, this can be done poorly or well; details often being the difference.  These need not necessarily be drawn details--but drawn details can be communicated to a wider 'audience' with potentially a more uniform understanding of what is wanted.

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
1. 
   DavidAndersen | Jul 03, 2007 07:41am | #2

   Thanks CapnMac. I'm 95% sure this is a frame house with a brick veneer. In the attic crawl spaces I can see 2x4 framing on the side walls that is covered with sheathing. The brick is to the outside of that (I'm not sure if it butts against the sheathing or if there is some space. The foundation is made of very large block 3' x 1' x ? (not sure how thick) and a rim joist (I think that's the right term) sits on top of that. I can see the lintels above all the doors and windows. Looks to be steel. I understand your point about widening the door or window and setting the new lintel from the bottom. Thanks, that helps. So if I want a bigger window or door, I not only have to reframe the opening but also remove and 'reframe' the brick. With regard to additions, my concerns are regarding the removal of the existing brick and the integration of new brick (or wood). Aesthetically I'm not worried - that's the one thing I can do well. I'm more concerned with the removal of the old brick and the transition to the new exterior walls, especially with brick. Is the old brick removed by grinding out the joints?Can the old brick be reused? If the addition is brick, how hard is it to make sure the new brick doesn't settle too much compared to the old brick? Thanks again.

1. 
   CapnMac | Jul 03, 2007 08:08am | #3

   Is the old brick removed by grinding out the joints?

   Can be, but a mason's chisel (meaning a bit softer mortar) is preferable,  Many here like using a masonry bit in a hammer drill to wallow out the mortar joints.  Usually, there's a "magic moment" and you can feel the brick come loose.  This is often well before all the mortar is removed.

   Can the old brick be reused?

   Sure.  Just chip off the excess mortar (carefully).  Reused brick is how you make a 'used brick' finish.

   If the addition is brick, how hard is it to make sure the new brick doesn't settle too much compared to the old brick?

   Well, it's not the brick that settles, it's the foundation that moves.  If it moves more than a bit, the mortar joints crack.  More than a small movement; or a quick small movement, and the brick breaks. 

   Plan for a 5 1/2" wide, 1 1/2 or 3" deep brick ledge as part of your addition's foundation, and it's hard to go wrong.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

1. 
   DavidAndersen | Jul 03, 2007 05:08pm | #4

   Thank you very much!

1. 
   CapnMac | Jul 03, 2007 07:01pm | #5

   Hey, that's what "we" do here <g>.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

2. 
   FatRoman | Jul 03, 2007 08:44pm | #6

   David,

   You might look into the Arbortech brick saw. Seems like it might be just the ticket for expanding window and door areas. It is from Australia, though, so I'm not sure if it's available for sale/rent near you in Iowa.

   Review of the year's best, from Tools of the Trade
   http://tinyurl.com/2mh36o

   Another review that has a video of the saw in action
   http://tinyurl.com/337brn

   Hope that's helpful.

   Best,
   Steve

1. 
   DavidAndersen | Jul 04, 2007 06:46am | #7

   Steve, that's a very cool saw. Thanks!