Replies

1. 
   Scott_Chadbourne | Apr 18, 2000 05:37am | #6

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   Say again?

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 18, 2000 05:44am | #7

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   Don't mind him he's an Architect. Just ask him to make sure his numbers add up.

3. 
   gregg_stephen | Apr 20, 2000 04:14am | #8

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   if you've exposed the whole bead. REPLACE IT...use screws and mesh tape for your bed ...if the existing bead is not too badly buckled and the house isnt expected to move that much more...secure it with 1 1/4 drywall screws, fill the deepest cavities with lightweight (white) spackle, mesh tape the edges, and finish mud with two coats of lightweight conventional joint compound.

1. 
   Scott_Chadbourne | Apr 20, 2000 12:40pm | #9

   *gregg, Hmmmmm..... different approach there. I thought you layered in with joint compound and finished coated with topping since it dried slower and is alot harder than joint compound. Although it is slightly harder to sand than topping compound, I prefer Durabond 90 for areas that are subject to stress cracks/abuse. Just an opinion and it works for me. Scott

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   Guest_ | Apr 20, 2000 12:46pm | #10

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   Nail it back down with horseshoe nails, and spackle the heck out of it with gypcrete. Then tell the customer that it's the latest look, and if they want to keep up with the Jones', they'll have to do the rest of the house to match. Inside AND out.

   This advice straight from the 'bigger hammer' book of carpentry.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 20, 2000 03:05pm | #11

   *No need to get huffy, I'm just referring to the complaints that I hear from the field sometimes (you i dowant us to listen to those, don't you?) that setting-type compounds are tougher to sand and feather out than drying-type compounds. Obviously you disagree.

5. 
   Guest_ | Apr 20, 2000 03:06pm | #12

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   While working on a staircase recently in a ten year old home here in the Adirondack Park, the owners asked me to repair some loose cornerbead in several drywall openings, evidenced by hairline cracks and in some cases by slight buckling of the metal bead, probably due to settling. As I peeled away the loose mud, I found that the metal bead had not been nailed on, but only clinched. I suppose that if the settling was severe enough, nails may not have made any difference, but probably at this point any additional settling will be minimal. If I peel away all of the mud so I can nail on the bead, can I just recoat the bead as if it were new without worrying about it cracking again?

   Thanks for any input here! Don

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 13, 2000 09:15pm | #1

   *Hello Adirondack Don (no relation to Adirondack Jack?) -Clinching corner beads is bad news in my opinion. Once you remove the compound, why not plan on replacing the bead, especially if it is buckled in places (impossible to fix). If you have crown and baseboard that remain with the bead behind them, of course you won't be able to remove it.I suggest that if you remove it, and renail, or just renail the existing bead in place, that you might want to drill some minor pilot holes for the nails and hammer carefully. Otherwise the vibration can cause additional compound to crack unpredictably. I don't see why new compound wouldn't stick to the old bead if you have to leave it.After your last new coat of compound dries, take the time to mask the surrounding walls and 'stripe' prime the exposed bead corner w/Rustoleum flat white enamel primer. This gives the latex primer a good surface to stick to and when the bead gets knocked around the paint won't chip off to bare metal as easily.Good luck - Jeff Clarke

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   Guest_ | Apr 14, 2000 03:55am | #2

   *Don: This will be a little harder than if it was all new stuff, but if you ever want to be certain that you don't get those cracks here's what to do. Nail the bead on at every nail hole, then tape it. That is, as you apply compound bed paper tape lengthwise covering that area- held back a little from the bead. The metal won't ever come loose.

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   Guest_ | Apr 16, 2000 04:34pm | #3

   *Don: Even if the corner bead is buried behind crown and base, I've been able to cut it away cleanly with a sharp chisel, held at a 45 degree angle so only a small part of the cutting edge is actually engaged.

1. 
   SCOTT_E._CHADBOURNE | Apr 17, 2000 03:39am | #4

   *Don, You may want to consider using Durabond 90 or Durabond 45 when you mud your corner back in as the Durabond is less apt to crack again. Durabond is available in powder form only and sets up quickly [either 90 minutes or 45 minutes]. Scott

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 17, 2000 08:04pm | #5

   *Durabond ... less apt to be sanded, too, right? :-(