Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 26, 1999 09:17pm | #1

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   Andy,

   We just had a plasterer give us an estimate
   on some plaster repair work. He also looked
   at a minor replastering job I had done myself,
   using joint compound. He said plaster of Paris
   was a much better choice than joint compound.

2. 
   ChadS. | Mar 27, 1999 12:22am | #2

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   Andy,

   I try to examine the materials I'm going to work on before making any choices. There are many types of plaster that have been used as well as many substrates. You should find out what's behind the plaster (wood or metal lath, rock lath, wall board, etc.) what type of plaster you have (hard/soft, gypsum based or lime/cement based) and how stable the wall or ceiling behind it is.

   I often use quick setting patching compounds such as Web-Patch or Surf-All. I also try to rake out the cracks with a sharp 5-in-1 or scraper. This allows the new material to better fill the gap and provides better bonding. It can help to prime the crack before filling it.

   I use fiberglass mesh tape over larger cracks to improve strength and then float over the tape with a couple of very thin leveling coats to hide the new materials.

   Another option I've used is to pull the trim and put 1/4" or 3/8" gypsum board over the old plaster; after taping and floating you re-install the trim (make fillers and extensions as needed) and set off to finishing.

   For really bad walls it can be easier and faster to strip the wall and start with bare studs; this also allows for upgrades in wiring, plumbing, insulation, etc.

   Have a blast with all that work, I've been there!

1. 
   pdold | Mar 27, 1999 01:36am | #3

   *I just finished a samll home repair where the plaster was in horrible condition. If I were to do it again, I would consider stripping the plaster to the studs and starting over, however, we did strip loose plaster and loose paint. After removing all woodwork we reinforced cracks and deterioting areas with fiberglass tape. Fiberglass tape was used around all doors and windows also. Then I used at least one or two coats of setting type drywall compound. Adhesion is better and it is stronger than the pre mixed general purpose compound, plus it seems to be more plastic while working it. Mix it in small batches so it doesn't get ahed of you. Finished with lightweight or general purpose compound and then first coat primer. Finally did use a knock down texture on the walls. The end result is very sound and outstanding, but time consuming. After two years no cracks have reappeared and I remain pleased with the job. The fiberglass tape is also available in 36 inch by 75 foot rolls for approximately $36/roll. It is crucial to use setting type compound. This is the second home that I have repaired using this method. Good luck.

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 27, 1999 07:12am | #4

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   If you are just looking to fill the minor holes and nicks from removing the wall paper, then joint compound is the best choice. It is easily workable and affordable. If you need to patch or repair larger areas all the way down to the lath, then there is a product called Perilite(sp?) that acts as the rough coat which you can then top with joint compound. I am doing a job like this right now.

   Pete Draganic

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 27, 1999 08:04am | #5

   *Perilite? Perlite? Structo-lite?

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 27, 1999 10:13am | #6

   *Yeah, that's it, "Structolite". What the hell was I thinking of?

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 27, 1999 06:03pm | #7

   *The names are all nonsense. Structolite uses perlite as a lightweight aggregate -- it's "perlited" plaster. And maybe you like Pete stay up too late???I'd like to recommend USG's wood-fiber plaster over Structo-Lite as a scratch coat -- very very sturdy stuff more likely to give, according to USG, a smooth finish coat. Also, it comes in smaller bags!

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 01, 1999 01:24am | #8

   *Perlite? Aren't those the little white things that are in potting soil? Andrew, thanks for that info on Structo-Lite, etc.; I'm gonna check that out! I've done pretty much everything like Chad's done, except for one funky thing: if the hole is pretty small, like 2"x2", give or take, I stuff it with cotton balls, then tape & mud over it - don't laugh, it's held for years, and it beats anything else I've tried for small holes!My daughter and I just "painted" (more like skim-coated) two rooms with that sand-texture paint, that comes in 5-gallon buckets, from HD, and it turned out gorgeous! After trying everything from drywall knives to heavy paintbrushes, we ended up putting it on with one of those hard foamtile floats! We put it on to look kind of like old Italian rough plaster (at least, that's whati welike to think it looks like). I'm getting ready to do another room, but this time I'm going to go with the smooth texture-paint from HD. One thing: iti iswater-soluble, even after it dries, so at least one coat of paint is necessary. My daughter plans to also do a wash on these textured walls, but she's on her own; like the other tradespeople, I never do at home what I get paid for doing by clients! ; )Patty

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 01, 1999 08:32am | #9

   *When I rented, I always used toothpaste for those annoying holes. Yes, perlite is that white mineral stuff used to break up soil.

4. 
   AndyElman | Apr 01, 1999 08:33am | #10

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   We just removed the wall paper from our new/old house and now that I am done scraping the loose paint, and am down to bare plaster in many places, what is the better choice of repair- joint compound or plaster of paris?