I have a problem with T-111 type wood panels on the outside of my home. There are several ‘rotten’ spots at the bottom of the panels. I can clean them up and “fill them in” but, I don’t know which is best; fiberglass or wood filler. I tried Duhrams about 18 months ago and it worked for awhile. I am looking for a longer solution without replacing the boards. I would also need a great primer for the same application. I painted with American Traditions paint recommended by Consumers Reports and have not been happy with the product. Thanks to all that may have an idea for me.
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I'd try Abatron (though I've never used it) or Minwax wood filler (have used that and like it). Use the Minwax wood hardener first to harden anything punky that you weren't able to remove, then mix up the two part wood filler and fill. I think they suggest thin layers--read and follow the instructions. ;-)
Epoxy putty may also work. Comes in a striped plug and you cut off a piece and twist and knead the two parts together and when it is a uniform color, it's ready.
Thanks for the suggestions. I would need abpout 3 gallons of the product once I figure out what to use. Epoxy putty like you desribe is probably too expensive for this job. I appreciate your help and will report back on the results of my search.
If it's going to take three gallons of a product, maybe you should consider ripping the stuff (T-111) off and replacing it! May be cheaper (and a better fix in the long run).
Edit: I see in your original post that you said you don't want to replace the panels, but it really may be the best solution. Or, could you cut the bottom third or whatever and replace an entire course around the bottom of your house--replace with fiber cement board or similar and run a really good flashing between it an the T-111.
Edited 7/2/2008 10:55 pm ET by Danno
You and I know he is better off replacing, but he needs to convince himself
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Maybe we can push him over the edge with sage advice--like that it would be a perfect chance to insulate the walls better and put on house wrap (not so sure that one is so sage--more turquoise) or do a rainscreen wall, etc.
I think we're spending the kids college money here.But could be well spent as an investment rather than a cost.
I'll place a bet that any epoxy type repair on this will cost as much as replacing it now, will only last a few years again, and by the next time, he will definitely have rot in the framing if it isn't there now.I might l;ose the bet, but the odds are with me.
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I'd put vinyl over it, if it'll still hold a nail.
nail at the studs
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None of the above probably
Most T-1-11 is used where it is also the structural sheathing of he house. If that is the case, you need to replace it.
Also, for all the rot repair I do with chemical treatment like this, it is never cost effective for large areas like you have. It becomes far easier and cheaper once you have more than a square foot or two to deal with. And vertical surfaces like siding are harder and more expensive to do, because the stuff is running away chasing gravity skirts instead of penetrating the wood at hand.
That said, if you just have some surface punk, the way I would go at it is the Minwax wood hardener. If you are filling holes, you need to treat with that or a thin penetrating epoxy like Git-Rot first.
Then Bondo or the Minwax wood filler mixed up.
Durhams is not a good choice for wet areas. It will decompose like particle board.
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Thanks for the help. This is siding rough sawn panels that were installed in 1980. It has rotted at the bottom of several boards; probably 10%. There is still some 'backing' to the panels after the 1/4 - 3/8" rotted wood is scrapped off. If I can't find an economical way to fill and finish the bottom 6" of the panels, the other thought would be to cut out the bottom of all the panels and replace it with a horizontal composite or waterproofed board as trim.
Somewhere I heard that 'bondo'; a fiberglass product that is used on automobiles can be used for this purpose. I will experiment and report back my findings.
The thing I am unclear on - and you might be too, is whether this is your structural sheathing or if you have plywood under it and the T 1-11 is only siding, and if so, whether there is a barrier like tarpaper behind it to keep water out of the framing.Lot of times, the less expensive houses built using T 1-11 as both then get real siding over it all later, leaving the T1-11 in place as sheathing
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BTW, I put about as much stock in Consumer's reports as I do in the Eight year old kid down the street for good information on something like this, but...
Couple things
No paint will hold well to wood that is suffering from rot unless it is perfectly restored first, and dry and clean. Prep work is 2/3s of the job for repainting the exterior of a house.
I don't know the paint product you name, but I am finding problems every where with the new latex paints when in a location where it seems to stay wet. Latex can let moisture pass through it which is sometimes a benefit, say applying over new wood that contains moisture yet to dry.
But when near the bottom of a door casing where snow drifts against it, or where water from a roof runoff regularly splashes it, it seems to keep the wood wet and rot advances quickly.
If you have a situation where this siding is being splashed on, you could also be growing some micro-organisms in the framing behind the siding since this is second time around. You want to find out and deal withthis before it goes too far, and find a way to prevent the continuation of the problem.
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American Traditions paint is Valspar line. IIRC it is a Lowes exclusvie.I wonder about treating areas like the door jamb and the bottom edge of T-111 with a paintable water repeallant, protectant. I think that Jasco termine-8 meets that definition.US Forest Product lab has pictures of 2 windows one with there casing had been treated before paint and the other where had not.The bottom edge of the vertical casing, where it met the sill, the paint was bubling and pealing on the un treated one..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I talked with the SW guy yesterday and he reccomended the oil based primer with mildewcide added. Couple coats.I am going to be checking at the marine suppliers to see what they say.
I'm seeing far too much of this on pine trim that we installed only a few years back now, even where backprimed and end sealed upon installation.I have a list of potential reasons in my mindtop of the list is that we can't use oil paint anymore - and that they took the lead out.Then I wonder if there is a new genetic breed of bacteria or other micro-organisms feeding on the wood too. we have more of flesh-eating bacteria on humans - who is to say there isn't a problem like that with wood eaters.Another thought - we now have higher concentration of CO2 than when I was a kid. Do these bugs feed faster in a richer CO2 atmosphere?Of course the wood is wider grained now with more summerwood too, but I can't believe that is all of it.
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That would be some interesting questions to ask the US FPL.http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/faqs--finishing.htmlYou might want to look at the names one some of these publications.http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/rwu4723/index.htmlOn the right they have staff listed along with email addresses..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Thanks a lot for those Bill.I'm too worn out to seriously study tonight, but I will be pursuing this subject. It bothers me.
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Just a FYI, I have found that mixing Durhams with TB2 or TB3 glue makes it very much more durable and waterproof.
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Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
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Deja vueSeems like we had this same talk 5-6 years ago now that you remind me.
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Thanks for chiming in on my outside panel problem. The websites are great and I will reference them more after the holiday. The wood was getting wet from a sprinkling system which I have since adjusted. Obviously, if I can find a product to 'repair' the panels, much like an auto repairman, it would be faster and cheaper. I am working on my own home and so I can experiment and I will share my results. I fyou have any more suggestions, I will be starting the project after the holday weekend.
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I started a job to replace some brickmold on a window because the HO had a sprinkler running on it. then noticed that the bottom of the t-111 was showing some soft spots. but only 1/2" or so so I through that it could be repaired.But then as I was removing the brickmold I found a bad place by the window. I think that it had been cut badly when the house was build and filled with caulk.While it was only a small area there was nothing to bond to and that was a great place to for real damage to start.So I had the HO replace all of the panels on that one wall (about 14 ft)..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Piffin
I'm seeing far too much of this on pine trim that we installed only a few years back now, even where backprimed and end sealed upon installation.
I'm seeing it too.
Another thought - we now have higher concentration of CO2 than when I was a kid. Do these bugs feed faster in a richer CO2 atmosphere?
Why isn't it eating my 100 year old wood than? I have a 100 year old house that I am responsible for keeping the paint on. LOL 2 Stories lots of detail.
Of course the wood is wider grained now with more summerwood too, but I can't believe that is all of it.
I think this fast growing wood is the problem.
Rich