Replies

1. 
   DanH | Aug 14, 2010 08:39am | #1

   Are you planning to remove the floor?  Or do you want to do something that can be done in the crawl, without removing the floor?

   It would help to have some rough idea of the dimensions of this structure, and the presence/absence of any interior walls or other objects.

1. 
   Hitlist | Aug 15, 2010 06:28am | #2

   Not planning to remove floor,sorry.

   All work must be done in crawl space of  maybe 3-4 feet in spots

   .Some of it must be dug out to give that much room

   .It has dimensions of approximately 18 x30 inside with only one room.

   No walls inside except very small bathroom that was installed by someone.These would be 5 feet long maybe.

   The original subfloor looks like 1x6 pine or spruce and is in fair shape throughout most of camp except under bathroom where there was slow water leak and rotted through.

   The original floor is hardwood of some sort about 2 inches thick.Someone covered this in chip board or OSB like a bonehead.When I fix the joists I want to tear out OSB and mabe fill nail holes with contrasting wood like matchsticks or something unless I get a better idea by then.

   The only way right now to get lumber underneath is through a 18x12 vent hole so it would be easier to use 2x lumber but if the building need the heavier timbers then they will go in.

   Thanks for reply

1. 
   DanH | Aug 15, 2010 08:38am | #3

   Well, in that space, assuming the joists run the short dimenison, you'd need 15-20 2x joists.  If you used 10-footers and crossed on a beam at the middle I think 2x6 would suffice, but that's just a guess, and it may be that code wants 2x8.  Probably what you'd want to do is work two 2x joists in between each beam, then either leave the beams in place or cut them out somehow.

   The joists would have to be braced somehow.  Blocking or diagonal bracing between two adjacent joists (where the beam wasn't in the way) would be a start, but you'd probably want more.

   A little bit of a trick to figure out how to do the center beam -- probably use several pillars and temporarily use short beams, then fit in the "real" ones near the end.

   You have to figure out how to anchor the joists on the outside end.  If the rim beam isn't sound that's a whole separate can of worms.

1. 
   Hitlist | Aug 16, 2010 09:42am | #4

   I really appreciate your quick responses.

   I think that is what I will do then.I was not looking forward to lugging big beams let alone the cost around here.

   I will need to see how bad the sill beams are and maybe replace them after making sure I can stabilise the walls one at a time.

   I will probably want to use large beams for this to keep it the same as original for structural purposes.

   Any ides on doing this would help also.

   Thanks Again

1. 
   DanH | Aug 16, 2010 05:49pm | #5

   Replacing the rim in place could be a challenge.  You might want to seriously entertain the idea of hiring a house mover to lift the whole thing, replace rim and floor, and set it back down.  No idea how much it would cost, but it would be the most direct way to address your issues.

2. 
   Hitlist | Aug 18, 2010 09:24pm | #6

   Where would the challenge be if I contracted it out? I will look into it though .

   Thanx

2. 
   Hitlist | Sep 01, 2010 09:33am | #7

   The sill beams seem solid so far.

   I have been digging out the crawl space to make it easier to work under there in a few tight spots.

   Question on venting.

   Should crawl spaces be vented on two or more sides or does this cause condensation under there?

   Don't want new joist to rot for a while.

   Also not sure if I should open up ceiling to have a loft or at least show beams.Need to get rid of shavings that are there for insulation.

   Thank You

   
1. 
   DanH | Sep 01, 2010 05:31pm | #8

   Having ventilation on (more or less) opposite sides will reduce humidity down there -- won't cause condensation.