Roof on bay window looks lumpy
DelawareDave61
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
If you’ve seen “Bulge in New Hardwood Floor,” you know that I’ve been having some quality issues with an addition under construction. We’re getting close to the end, and I’m taking a closer look at some other areas. I’m hoping to get some feedback on things that may need repair.
The attached photo shows the roof to a bay window. It looks lumpy along the ridge — should the shingles look like this?
Thank you!
Replies
i'm not a roofer so that tells you what this is worth,looks like he did the ridge cap with the arch shingles instaed of caps. now maybe the reason he did this is it looks like it hits the wall fairly quickily ,so that was why he did it this way. if it were mine i'd like to not see them bulged in the air like that.
a real roofer will be along soon...... larry
if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
Del,
do you have a pic farther back from the house showing the whole thing?
Peace full.
do you have a pic farther back from the house showing the whole thing?
Check out this photo. The ridge on the right looks much better, because the thick parts of the architectural shingle are not on the ridge.
Is the solution as simple as asking for the shingles to be put on ridge so that they are bent over a thin spot rather than a thick spot? Is there more to it than this?
That row of visible nail heads staring at me begs for a flashing to hide them.
I suspect flashing is an elusive concept here. Maybe a tube of caulking is hidden under the J-mold. :(
Was the first thing I noticed when I looked at the pic. . .http://www.josephfusco.org
http://joes-stuff1960.blogspot.com/
I suspect flashing is an elusive concept here. Maybe a tube of caulking is hidden under the J-mold. :(
Good news! Nothing's hidden.
There's no caulking under the j-mold.
Gonna have a talking to with the contractor.
Anything else?
Dave-
I believe it would serve you well to post some pics of the rest of the house and roof.
Glad you're receiving some assist.
Peace full.
I believe it would serve you well to post some pics of the rest of the house and roof.
Glad you're receiving some assist.
I really appreciate it. We got a lot going on here, as you can tell, and this advice is taking away the blinders so we can see it.
There are already a bunch of other threads, with pictures, and a few more are on the way.
Other than this thread, here's what's out so far:
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=99875.2
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=99877.2
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=99881.4
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=99831.21
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=99240.1
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=98987.1
"Gonna have a talking to with the contractor.Anything else?"You wanna borrow a shovel to bury the body after the talk?;)
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Not going to be pretty is it! :(
I sense that sympathy might be slipping away from this unfortunate contractor.
Who would have imagined enlisting the WWW to critique work so effectively.
Post a pic and stand back.
why is there a dip in the roof? the hips are not fogured correctly. he must have had a terrrible time getting the soffit the same on all three sides. i would still like to know why it dips. something is wrong. if the flashing is installed under the shingles he should have covered the nail heads.
Some premade bays are formed with a bell curve for purpose of a nice copper cap, but this one could be simply that he used too large of a fascia for the pitch of the roof and swaled right over it with the edge and shingles.
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That swale is no accident. He's using the ice and water shield and thinks it is his flashing. He's fundamentally wrong. It was rare in MI to find any remodeling contractor that did reroofs to understand that they needed to install step flashing on the new layers. Their argument would be "How can I slide the flashings behind the j channel?" This roofer reminds me of all those roofing/siding guys that roamed MI.I wouldn't accept this roof installation. I'd demand that the step flashings and apron flashings be installed properly. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
"That swale is no accident."Yeah, I see that now with the latest photos
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I wouldn't accept this roof installation. I'd demand that the step flashings and apron flashings be installed properly.
I'm there.
Man, what you initially thought was good work seems to have become something else.
A match hip/ridge shingle to go with those architecturals would have made the difference. The lower one might have a nail coming up. The upper is delaminating.
Best of luck.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
NO WAY Its looks like someone used dimensional shingles for a ridge cap. That will leak in time for sure. What you need is ridge cap shingles or 3 tab if you can match the color.
What you need is ridge cap shingles
Just looked up ridge cap shingles on the web. It's the obvious way to go -- now that you've pointed it out ;^)
Thank you!
on second look,is there any step flashing there or is the plastic j channel the flashing? now we got a box of worms. larry
if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
It's hard to tell when you cram the J down tight.
and cut the face of it for bendability.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
It's hard to tell when you cram the J down tight
I took pictures throughout the construction. Do either of these earlier photo clips help answer the question? Or can we just assume that there is no flashing?
with those 2 pics you can assume no flashing,with step flashing you will have approx. a 3x5 pc of galvanized piece of metal up under the wall siding for the roof shingles to "lace into". maybe some one can show you a pic of how its suppose to be. or go by home depot and pick you up one and ask the contracter if he used any of those before. there really expensive,i think .30 cents a piece.! larryif a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
step flashing...there really expensive, i think .30 cents a piece.
I think that can fit into the budget ;^) I'd even be willing to spring for the materials. Thank you!
Personally I like to see the whole picture. Some of these cropped photo's are hard to get a handle on. Zoom is ok, but how's bout showing some more of the shot.
thanks,
You assume right. The only flashing per se might be the roofing paper (?) if run up the side wall. This would only help keep the water off the sheeting till it ran down each side and entered at the fascia/house intersect.
Man............A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I like to see the whole picture. Some of these cropped photo's are hard to get a handle on.
#10 shows the entire bay window. This picture shows the entire project, before the shingles were put on the bay.
I'd say there is definitely no step flashing. I don't know how he could have installed it up under the J of the siding.This is a strange mystery - that he took time to carve a nice bell curve to the roof but then goobbered things up with no flashing and sloppy shingle work
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I'd say there is definitely no step flashing. I don't know how he could have installed it up under the J of the siding.
Another creative use of j-mold: check out these close-ups on the bay window roof at the corners. It looks like water will sit on top of the j-mold and seep behind the siding. Should it have been done another way? If so, how?
Thank you!
now those are some decent pictures!
This has been an adventure trying to focus my eyes on what you post, LOL.whether what you have works depends entirely on how he handled things behind what you see there.For instance, the flange on the window - see the top of it facing uphill? All the water running down the siding is going in behind that. Where does it go from there?
That depends on the flashing details weaved into the housewrap etc
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the flange on the window - see the top of it facing uphill? All the water running down the siding is going in behind that.
Yup. Gotta fix it.
And thanks for offering the shovel...guess I can put away the wood chipper!
You should be aware that some vinyl windows have a channel as the outside frame member. They are intentionally manufactured this way to allow metal or vinyl siding to slip into that channel. Water coming down from the top simply runs off to the sides and down where it exits at the bottom. What is important is how the nailing flange was treated in terms of water proofing, especially at the bottom. Just having the channel does not make it incorrect.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
They are intentionally manufactured this way to allow metal or vinyl siding to slip into that channel. Water coming down from the top simply runs off to the sides and down where it exits at the bottom.
What is important is how the nailing flange was treated in terms of water proofing, especially at the bottom.
Just having the channel does not make it incorrect.
I think we're going to try to address this whole issue by replacing the bay roof with copper, and install it with proper water proofing.
Dave,Based on my past experiences, you should be talking to a lawyer about a stop work order if this project isn't complete. If it is complete, I think you should still be talking to a lawyer.
So the next Q is "Who can serve effectively as an expert witness in Delaware?"
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Actually, hopefully not. I was offering that suggestion in hopes that it would not get to that stage. I'm sure that suggestion raised the hackles on the back of many of you builders out there, but from a homeowners perspective, when it appears he may be getting stuck either with an albatross or with a finished product that's only going to cost him dollars in the future to correct built in problems, IMHO based on past experiences, it is better to do this earlier instead of later.There are several reasons for my suggestion.
- resolving the quality of work issues sooner, rather than later, lessens the costs for both parties;
- the ONLY recourse the homeowner legally has is in the wording of the contract that he signed with the builder. Only a lawyer can properly advise the homeowner of what his options might be under that contract if any of the work is found inadequate or not up to building codes.
- based on my own experiences, a lay person does not understand & cannot properly decipher the implications in such a contract. Terms that seem to be plain understandable english do not always have the meaning that most people would infer.
- if it is just a case of laziness, instead of ignorance, on the part of the builder that has prompted the conditions that concern the homeowner, the realization that the homeowner has taken legal steps to address the problem, might possible result in better workmanship on items yet to be completed.
- if the concern you expressed was oriented toward the issue of the homeowner raising problems pointed out by the members of this forum, I'm sure any established real estate attorney could point the homeowner into the direction of a qualified expert witness...
That reply confused me so much I had to go back and see what I said...stil a bit confused, but no problem with agreeing.except for this - "the ONLY recourse the homeowner legally has is in the wording of the contract that he signed"As long as he keeps the final payment in his pocket, he has leverage
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Based on my past experiences, you should be talking to a lawyer about a stop work order if this project isn't complete. If it is complete, I think you should still be talking to a lawyer.
We hadn't discussed this seriously yet, but this fits into what my wife and I have been talking about: How do we deal with all of these problems?
The final payment hasn't been made yet, but it is less than what I expect is the cost for the repairs.
We've been planning to deal with these repairs by starting with the ones we feel we can trust him with, which are relatively small. Once those are done, we'll bring out another serving, and we keep doing this until either all of the repairs we trust him with are done or he bolts.
Depending on how things go at that point, we may take legal action.
But you bring up a good point: If a person is incompetent, then asking them to do it over does not necessarily produce an acceptable result. It may be better to just demand that work stop and finish with someone else.
We're just not sure where to draw the line. Have you seen enough here to say that we should just stop everything?
D,I'm not an expert on building or law, but I had a similar experience with my contractor about 30 years ago. In my case it was incompetence & laziness, but I don't think I ended up with as many major problems as you have illustrated. Since we moved in, I've been able to work slowly on repairing his mistakes &/or sloppiness. I'm still working on it. I was fortunate that, at that time, we had a very conscientious building inspector who caught the major problems and made him fix them. In my case, we negotiated a settlement for the last payment with our lawyers involved which included some funds to be held in escrow until he completed some unfinished work & punch list items. He claimed he could be done in two weeks. He was so irritated with me that he walked away from the money. Since the money was in a legal escrow fund, I couldn't touch it to pay someone else to do the repairs. It's still there. I had to pay for the repairs out-of-pocket. I could have sued him, of course, but couldn't have gotten enough out of him to pay for my attorney. I wasn't the only one involved in some legal action against him at the time.Again, based on my experiences, I would say that the sooner you found yourself a really good attorney that specializes in real estate law, the better.Best of luck.
I had a similar experience with my contractor about 30 years ago...I couldn't touch it to pay someone else to do the repairs. It's still there...the sooner you found yourself a really good attorney that specializes in real estate law, the better.
We're documenting and photographing everything right now. 98 items on the punch list.
We plan to roll our punch list items with the contractor in phases, starting with the ones that will get the least protest. If he walks, we plan to get an estimate for the remaining items and talk with an attorney.
Sounds like putting money into an escrow account didn't turn out so well. Do you think there's a way we can put a time limit on it so that if repairs aren't done by a certain time, the escrow money reverts to us?
Thank you!
Edited 1/26/2008 8:46 am ET by DelawareDave61
I'm sure you can put a time limit on it & then have it revert to you if the work wasn't done. Actually, IIRC, my attorney initially wanted a drop dead date, but my contractor's & his attorney's insistence that everything would be done in a few weeks somehow got us to drop that issue. Don't remember exactly what happened there. Just don't overlook that issue, if you get to that point. Again, best of luck! Hopefully, he will come through for you.
Edited 1/26/2008 9:14 am ET by bd
"Have you seen enough here to say that we should just stop everything?"No, but I'd present every request for repairs and service in writing with documents indicating the accepted standard practices. Get a book and start photocopying acceptable methods or scan the pictures off the shingle wrappers.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I'd present every request for repairs and service in writing with documents indicating the accepted standard practices.
Ordered Architectural Graphic Standards on Tuesday. Should be in by the beginning of next week. Also, got lots of links to useful ref's in the threads, too.
If you are buying books, JLC has a good graphic best practices guide. Don't remember the name of it.
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JLC has a good graphic best practices guide. Don't remember the name of it.
Just ordered your recommendation. Should arrive in a few days.
"Architectural Graphic Standards" arrived today and I've been reading through it. Have also been reading through the linked references.
Building good cases on the issues on these threads, based on all the comments. Gonna be a busy week!
on second look,is there any step flashing there or is the plastic j channel the flashing? now we got a box of worms.
It looks like it's just J channel that's been cut to fit the curve. What should have been done?
Edited 1/22/2008 8:33 am ET by DelawareDave61
It looks like it's just J channel that's been cut to fit the curve. What should have been done?
There should have been a piece of step flashing installed for each course of shingles up the sides. At the top, there should be an apron flashing covering the nails on the top course and extending back up the wall under the house wrap.http://grantlogan.net/
"Because I really want to live in a country where the poor people are fat. "- Unidentified Indian Immigrant when asked why he wants to come to America
I don't like the way the fascia adresses the vinyl, but then what do I know about vinyl siding?
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Imagine a funnel.
With the spout stuck behind a plastic bag that covers your house.
Not enough quantity to penetrate the drywall envelope, at this time anyway.
Years pass.
But you knew that.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I can imagine a way to work in snippets of flashing that are behind the fascia intersect and out over a lower course of siding.but from what we have seen of this guys work, I have to supercharge my imagination to see it happening there.
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I was gonna say that they didn't install kick outs, but since there's probably no flashing, that's understandable.
As far as the fascia, I guess they don't make 45 degree J channel.http://grantlogan.net/
"Because I really want to live in a country where the poor people are fat. "- Unidentified Indian Immigrant when asked why he wants to come to America
There should have been a piece of step flashing installed for each course of shingles up the sides. At the top, there should be an apron flashing covering the nails on the top course and extending back up the wall under the house wrap.
Thank you. You helping me get a clear image of all that needs to be done before this project finishes. We've got a lot to do.
Sorry dave but its a poor job from the J bead to the shingles. Some of the siding looks suspect too.
Yikes!
Get ridge caps and have them do it right. Also, verify that the step flashing is installed. Give us a wider shot of the whole roof.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
He probably did not intend for it to leak much.
That is one of the worst examples of installing a hip/ridge I have ever seen. Did he use proper ridge shingles at the main roof or is the same problem existing there?
If there is no step flashing between these shingles and the side wall, then I am ready to call him a total hack form start to finish.
In you second photo, you can see that the first two shingles are identical and the third and forth have the same pattern. He was too lazy to even make the slightest attempt to go for the random pattern they are intended to have.
But you got lucky - at least it looks like he used starters
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Did he use proper ridge shingles at the main roof
Yes he did. At least we can give him credit for this. But his roofing subcontractor did the over-all roof, while an employee of his did the bay window.
I am ready to call him a total hack form start to finish
I'm at the point where I'm trying to figure out which things to ask him to redo, and which things to simply either do myself or give to someone else. That's why I'm putting these things out for comments -- trying to vet the fix-ups.
If it's easy and he resists, I'll do it myself. If it has to be fixed right away or else damage will result, I'll be on him to do it right away. Etc.
I have not done a lot of vinyl siding, but I believe it is fairly easy to remove and put back as long as it is not so cold that it is brittle.I would set staging around that bay, remove the ridge shingles and replace them.I would peel the siding from just below the bay fascia to the course above the top of the bay roof and make sure that all the housewrap is done so that no laps face uphill. some water will always penetrate siding and the Tyvek and roof underlayment are the second barrier of defense. water that can hit then always needs to be kept flowing downhill and no led or let into the house structure where it will cause mold and rot.Then I would work step flashing into the shingles and seal off to the Tyvek, and then replace the siding.no wait a minute - my preference would be to cap that bay with a copper top that would include the flashing and really look great.But I get the feeling you are going to be spending some money on other fixes out of this contractor's final payment....
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Dave that bay is framed wrong from the first step.
They brought the hips back square when they should be running at an angle back to the house. 22-1/2 degrees if I remember right.
The ridge "cap" has to go, have him get off his wallet that he has filled from being cheap on your job and buy matching accessory cap.
There should be step flashing on the side walls and a pan or apron like others have posted. The step flashing has to be tucked under the house wrap.
Exposed nails are not acceptable either. Make him strip the top course of shingles and the cap. Check to make sure he put ice and water shield on it.
The sidewalls need a flat piece of aluminum that slides behind the first piece of step flashing and J-channel and down onto the snap lock of the nearest piece of siding. So when water runs off the roof it runs onto the metal, then onto the siding, then out the sidings weep holes.
Can't remember if I saw drip edge or not. If it's not there that needs to go on as well.
This is a bad deal, and you are doing this for your father who is handicapped. Makes me sick.
Woods favorite carpenter
Matt, I see that kind of hip framed before. not right or wrong, more of a preference. I would do it back the 22.5 also, but that doesn't make it right.For everyone else, here is a list of the other threads this guy has going...new list of good links - I thinkhttp://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=99875.1http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=99881.1http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=99831.1http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=99810.1http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=99240.1http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=99439.1http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=98987.1
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
"Dave that bay is framed wrong from the first step. They brought the hips back square when they should be running at an angle back to the house. 22-1/2 degrees if I remember right."Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. I used to think that there was a right way and a wrong way too. Then one day, someone didn't think the bay I built them was right. They wanted it to look like their neighbors, which was wrong by my standards. I ended up changing a roof from my "right" way to their right way at my expense. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Edited 1/24/2008 2:18 am by Jim_Allen
Correct you are, he needs to ask himself if he thinks it looks right.
If he's happy then that is all that matters. Woods favorite carpenter
Matt,
With 5 threads running , all with issues, I think he's less than happy.
i like the Stilletto/ Swanger valley from the other thread.
Walter
Thanks Walter
It's a bad deal, he builds this for his handicapped father paying good money. And his contractor is trying to give him a maintanence nightmare.
Woods favorite carpenter
if you check other threads, you will find that the roofers did not put step flashing on main roof. the whole addition is now suspect. he needs to get a home inspector in to check out everything....
Ya, I tried the stilletto valley and it worked sweet.
Did he devise this himself or see it done somewhere?
Peace full.
Edited 1/24/2008 12:52 pm ET by rez
Rez,
From what I gather from here both Matt Swanger and Mike Guertin have some claim to it's origin- me, I like open metal valleys.
Walter
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8cbsmrhq0iI¬ag=1
gee, you work with slate, huh?
How'd I know that?
be The SlateMan
Edited 1/24/2008 1:11 pm ET by rez
Rez,
You need to open a PI office- you're sleuthing out the details.
"both Matt Swanger and Mike Guertin have some claim to it's origin"Credit for publishing the method, but I was doing some like that twenty years ago. Mike has seen it too, and I think Grant has done it.
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I stand corrected!
Did he devise this himself or see it done somewhere?
I've been using it for 10-12 years (maybe longer) and I'd seen it done for quite a while before I tried it. I used to seldon do any kind of valley but open metal and we started using the same detail on either side with the metal.
Matt and I have discused this before and IIRC, he saw it somewhere as well. It's picked up popularity as dimensionals have gotten more popular.
One problem with it, is on steeper roofs, the offset is less than the 5" necessary for proper spacing between butts, so you still have to cut each shingle. But, you can cut one shingle and get two usable pieces with no waste using this method.http://grantlogan.net/
"Because I really want to live in a country where the poor people are fat. "- Unidentified Indian Immigrant when asked why he wants to come to America
And there's The CopperMan.
Found this old NE pic posted at 95240.45
Peace full.
I don't think that's copper. Looks like green paint on terne. Too uniform.http://grantlogan.net/
"Because I really want to live in a country where the poor people are fat. "- Unidentified Indian Immigrant when asked why he wants to come to America
I was wondering about that but could see metal working as rivets or something around the perimeter.
Is terne a galvanize product?
Peace full.
Edited 1/24/2008 1:55 pm ET by rez
Is terne a galvanize product?
http://www.follansbeeroofing.com/products/TerneII.aspxhttp://grantlogan.net/
"Because I really want to live in a country where the poor people are fat. "- Unidentified Indian Immigrant when asked why he wants to come to America
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Peace full.
I subbed a roof to a high school buddy in '90 I think..and he did that on a valley and I was less than impresssed. But I wasn't gonna argue, cuz I didn't wanna do it myself..LOL
Now that I have been more exposed to some roofing, and feel that it does indeed make a good job, I'd not think twice about it.
be always thinking twiceSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
They brought the hips back square when they should be running at an angle back to the house. 22-1/2 degrees if I remember right.
The bay came as a pre-manufactured unit. Not sure what that means regarding your comment. Is your point a matter of esthetics or a genuine structural problem?
The ridge "cap" has to go, have him get off his wallet that he has filled from being cheap on your job and buy matching accessory cap.
We're on it. Figuring on a copper replacement.
There should be step flashing on the side walls and a pan or apron like others have posted. The step flashing has to be tucked under the house wrap.
Yup!
Exposed nails are not acceptable either. Make him strip the top course of shingles and the cap. Check to make sure he put ice and water shield on it.
New copper roof should take care of it.
The sidewalls need a flat piece of aluminum that slides behind the first piece of step flashing and J-channel and down onto the snap lock of the nearest piece of siding. So when water runs off the roof it runs onto the metal, then onto the siding, then out the sidings weep holes.
First you have to have step flashing. We have work to do ;^)
Can't remember if I saw drip edge or not. If it's not there that needs to go on as well.
It has a drip edge.
Did the contractor build the roof over the bay? The roof is brought back square to the house. The hips should run at 22-1/2 degree angles.
Nothing structurally wrong with it. Most bay roofs are framed with the hips at the proper angle, not square like you got.
Woods favorite carpenter
my preference would be to cap that bay with a copper top that would include the flashing and really look great.
I might like to try this one myself. Copper sounds like a better solution, and if I replace the defective roof with copper, it's one less thing on the 98-item punch list to argue with the contractor about.
Can you suggest some stores or websites where I can order one? Any references on installation?
Dave,
You'd need to fabricate the copper on site if you wanted a roof done with it.
The bay they built is not a standard size. Not an item to buy and just install.
"Fiberglass loses significant R-value when its temperature is either less than or more than room temperature - that is, when its insulating ability is most needed."I did a job thirty years ago wheere I got the copper cap with the bay unit. I am not sure, but I think it was an Andesen window. I don't even remember now if it was Andersen that offered the capper cap or if it was an option the distributor put together...Anyways, start by finding out what the manufacturer of that bay is, then see what they offer. A premade will pop right on that in a couple hours.The other option is to get a custom SM shop that has experience with them in your area
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I have one of those premades here in my shop attic, came out of S.C. If I recall. The shop would make them custom if you supplied the correct dimensions. Nice easy to fill out order form with diagrams, etc for getting the dimensions all down correctly. Seems someone did not read the tape correctly. Don't ask. Been meaning to make a bird bath out of the pieces for years now.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
There's always the salvage market, with today's price for CU, we could have a party!
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I almost lost it 2 years ago. Friend staying here with me decided it was junk, took it out of the cardboard cartons it came in and was going to send it off to the dump! Couldn't understand why I was so pizzed off.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
The cut J raises a new issue. If they cut the back as wel then that needs to be torn off. Each cut gives ice a spot to rest and build up behind the siding.
I can't see any step flashing either, they make painted flashing so I hope they used that and I am wrong.
Good Luck Dave, really feel bad for you. You got put in a bad spot here.
Woods favorite carpenter
The cut J raises a new issue. If they cut the back as wel then that needs to be torn off. Each cut gives ice a spot to rest and build up behind the siding.
I can't see any step flashing either, they make painted flashing so I hope they used that and I am wrong.
Yup, Yup, and Nope. No flashing. Coulda done a better job myself without directions.
Thank you for the good wishes. We're putting together a gameplan...
They should have used ridge cap. And I would look into the flashing, when you see nail heads that's not a good sign.
Also why didn't he use the bendable j channel, that would have looked better then all those cuts.
Hope the craftsmanship is not the same level inside.
nailer
You've seen how the Breaktimers turned our interior around; now you can see the exterior. That lumpy ol' bay window looks a little straighter now, in copper. You can also see the method of construction as we were adding the Hardy shingle under the porch. Other photo shows the big picture of the completed exterior (so far).
As the guys who came out here can testify, I'm no pro. Unfortunately, that's one thing that hasn't changed. But I have the tools of the pros now -- heavy on Bosch -- and I got to watch and go-fer the pros, and every now and then they risked letting me get some hands-on experience.
You're amazing. We woulda been sunk without ya.