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The drywall bits have a non-cutting tip that acts like the guide on a
router roundover bit. sorta. Easy to end up slicing a 3 inch gash in
gypsum when you thought you were on the inside of a box and were
really on the outside.
The backer board bits, as others have noted, are quick to break, but
do a good job when not breaking. No guide on these. You’re on your
own. I’ve only found 1/8″ bits. I’d guess the 1/4″ bits would last
longer, if they could be found.
Replies
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Why shouldn't you use it to trim floor tile? Is the tile too thick, brittle, ETC?
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The roto-zip has been around since the early 80s if I'm not mistaken and has really done alot for dry wall cutting around boxes and I've heard no mention of it being used for round recessed lighting or Hi-hats as we call them. Laying out and cutting rock for outlets is easy enough with ruler and dry wall saw but my days with a compass cutter for these lights were over the day I bought roto-zip The one I carry now is made by porter cable and I have never used one for cutting anything but dry wall. Those bits run about $1 each at my hardware store and I've had the same one in the machine for the last 100 boards or so. Another suggestion. I use Cementitious fiberboard over 3/4 ply in baths. Glued (I/thin set and 1/4" notched trowel) and screwed. But for shower and bath walls I use a product called Den-shield. It's a 1/2" board of fiberglass impregnated gypsum with a solid vinyl (wrinkly) face. This stuff is light, comes in large sheets, cuts like drywall and have had no complaints in 10 yrs. Make a note of the name. I'm sure they have a website.
*The tool/bit combination aren't rated for floor tile, which is much tougher than wall tile.Zipping along, Steve
*Santa go me one for x-mas, and I've just started to really use it last week.Nice to have on hand. I played with the standard drywall box cut outs. Then used it to trim drywall hung on the bottom of a bulkhead where the rock was run long, then zipped off by riding the bit against the steel track. Next was to cut the holes for the can lights in said drywall. The circle cutting attachment is really cool.Pop her in and zip it around. Works great. Just a tip....if you're installing wainscot paneling at home, don't use the drywall bit instead of the wood bit on the ply, 'cause if ya do....you may have a little burning ember fall down in behind the wall where the new outlet is going......then ya have to pour a cup of water into the wall just so you can sleep without smelling smoke all nite! Jeff
*If you're installing at a customer's house, then go ahead and use the drywall bit since the smell of smoke won't be keeping you up.Rich Beckman
*I tried it on some floor tile that I had to cut holes in on a countertop. 15 minutes later I had gone about 3/8". Floor tile is just too hard. BTW, my sheetrock guys also used a porter cable. Looked like it had been through a war, but it seemed like a better tool.
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What about the Rotozip, or any of these other high RPM spiral saws? Are they decent, real tools, or junk? The infomercial makes them look useful, but that's their job.
*The rotozip is a real tool. I think that the origional use of these tools was to make cutouts in drywall, and thats what I use mine for. I have heard of poeple using them to cut ceramic tile, but I don't know how well that works.I think I have seen an infomercial for them when they have a competition between two guys to install a cabinet in a bathroom. One guy uses the rotozip and the other uses conventional tools. Of course the rotozip wins. I can only say that I saw this and started to laugh. I work as a finish carpenter, and wouldn't be caught dead using a tool designed to cut drywall to cut out for the sink. Don't get me wrong, I like my rotozip (for cutting drywall). But like any tool, it can't do everything. Its High speed and low torque kinda limits your options.Eric
*Had a helper buy one......we used it to cut out for a/c duct boxes on a remodel job on a ceiling with sheetrock and 3/4" shiplap....it beat the hell out of a sawzall
*Good tool for imprecise cutouts.
*Does anybody know anything about the bits? My interest would be to cut out the back of entertainment cabinets for electrical, cable TV, speaker wire etc. Is there a collar that rides on the electrical box and cuts larger to compensate for the wall of the box? I see drywallers find center of their target then just move out to one side and follow the inside of the box or are they following the outside of the box? Can anybody explain the nature of the bits? Are they like flush cutting router bits?
*Rotozips are very good at increasing the ventilation in a house which might otherwise have been too tight. When cutting around the outside of eletrical boxes, the vapor barrier cuts all cut up. This increased ventilation is balanced by those electrical boxes which get covered up by working blind. I never buried a box while drywalling with a razorknife and keyhole/drywall saw But I sure have had to track down a lot of them after the rotozip-equipped hangers come though.Could you acheive speed and quality by carrying an 2x4 box template and rotozipping before hanging the sheet? Oh, but then you'd have to be able add and subtract distances to get it right. Sorry, silly idea.But with the $8 bit and good respirator, they are nice for cutting holes out of tile backer board. For long straight cuts, take the backer board outside, wear hearing prtoection, and use a dry diamond blade. But for pipe stub outs and shower handle cutouts, the rotozip is great.
*The infomerchial makes me embarassed to own one, but a rotozip will pay for itself in two or three remodeling jobs. Handy as all get out, especially for cutting in electrical boxes in tile backsplashes and true plaster walls. The adjustable height guide is the weakest link in the tool, but it's adequate for the task. With patience, you can do amazingly accurate work. The circle cutter attachment is dynamite for those recessed can lights!Anyhow, I like mine... Steve
*It's one of those tools you don't really realize you needed til you buy one. Seemed to be good for cutting the backs of cabinets for drains.(howcome the right size holesaw is always the one I can't find?) Only thing I found is it can have a mind of it's own. And be REALLY careful with the tile bits. As soon as they start to chatter, they break.
*I just bought 3 rental properties. Had to cut cement backer board and tile. I also needed it for a wood working project and did not want to buy a JIG saw. I bought a root zip to keep from drilling starter holes. The root zip is a great tool, but went through a lot of bits when cutting tile. I wished I bought the cordless, but at the time did not want to spend the extra $100.00. DO NOT TRY TO CUT FLOOR TILE WITH IT, AND GO SLOW WITH WALL TILE.
*The drywall bits have a non-cutting tip that acts like the guide on a router roundover bit. sorta. Easy to end up slicing a 3 inch gash in gypsum when you thought you were on the inside of a box and were really on the outside.The backer board bits, as others have noted, are quick to break, but do a good job when not breaking. No guide on these. You're on your own. I've only found 1/8" bits. I'd guess the 1/4" bits would last longer, if they could be found.
*Ross,The rotozip rides on the ring of the electrical box.Just like when using a router when trimming laminate on a countertop, Run the rotozip counter clockwise on the the outside of the ring. It will hug the ring. Go clockwise and it will get away from you and createthat 3" gash someone mentioned.Mike Merisko