Replies

1. 
   Shep | Nov 26, 2007 06:47pm | #1

   I'm not sure I understand your question.

   Do you mean plumb to the walls? If so, you can use several methods.

   A plumb bob is an old, but very accurate way.

   I usualy use a Stabila jamb level to set my door framing.

   Lasers are also getting popular for this kind of work.

   If you get the door framing plumb in both directions, especially making sure the adjoining wall isn't tilted one way or another, it makes setting and trimming the door much easier.

1. 
   housenut1 | Nov 26, 2007 07:03pm | #2

   Thanks for responding so quickly Shep.  I probably didn't explain myself too well.  I'll try again. I think I understand. I'll drop a line down from the top plate at a few points and then set the bottom plate.  I know the wall will be plumb then.  I think I got it. Thank you. 

1. 
   Shep | Nov 26, 2007 10:16pm | #5

   That'll work. Getting the RO frame right is 90% of the battle when setting a door.

   Also, make sure all your framing is flush. I've seen too many windows and doors where the framers didn'd take the time to get the faces of the studs aligned. Then the rockers come in, and cover over that framing. By the time I trim, the finished RO could be a good 1/4" out of wack in width.

1. 
   housenut1 | Nov 28, 2007 05:48pm | #10

   Thanks again Shep.

   Housenut1

2. 
   dryhter | Nov 26, 2007 08:21pm | #3

   hey housenut,

   Plumb/square is only part of it.

   plumb, square, parallel, in plane, same wall thickness, even if all is perfect an out of square door,improper milling and setting of hinges, warped/bowed jambs make door hanging a challenge and a plumb jamb moot.

   You have to learn to hang doors with what you got.

   Settling
   Humidity
   Painters
   Kids
   ......

   Dave

1. 
   housenut1 | Nov 28, 2007 05:59pm | #12

   Dave:

   I was afraid of that.  I'll tackle it anyway and take a few more years off my life. 

   Thanks

3. 
   JDRHI | Nov 26, 2007 08:43pm | #4

   "Rough-in"...."doorway"....?

   Let's back it up a bit.

   Are you talking about framing an opening in which to hang a door?

   What stage is the wall that will house the door in? Framed? Rocked? Finished?

   Is this a bearing wall?

   J. D. Reynolds
   Home Improvements

    

    

   
   

1. 
   housenut1 | Nov 28, 2007 05:56pm | #11

   As always I didn't explain the question too well.  I'll be framing in an opening to hang a door slab (not prehung).  It isn't load bearing.  Currently it's a  large opening ~ 52inches that originally was going to be left open for a dining room.  Instead the wife wants it to be a library.  I salvaged an old 2-8 door.  I think I have it figured out though. 

   Thanks

   Housenut1

4. 
   Jim_Allen | Nov 27, 2007 01:16am | #6

   Get it close....after all its a "rough" opening. The finish opening needs space to adjust to your improper rough opening.

   If you want, you cant fidget with your rough opening and believe that it's a finish opening...that's what homeowners and trimmers do.

   FKA Blue (eyeddevil)

1. 
   housenut1 | Nov 28, 2007 05:45pm | #9

   Thanks Jim for your advice.

   Housenut1

5. 
   brod | Nov 27, 2007 02:42am | #7

   After fitting doors to bowed, twisted, cupped, and non-plumb framing, I'd suggest doing all you can at the rough framing stage to make a good opening if you are going to be the one hanging the doors.  Try to use wood that has dried a little, so you can see where it is going.  Reject the above mentioned ones with twists, cupping, bowing, etc.  (consider using kiln dried (KD) if the rest of the framing has dried out pretty well).  In addition to checking for vertical plumb in both directions and horizontal on the top, use a framing square to make sure that the trimmers are at right angles to the plane of the wall.

1. 
   housenut1 | Nov 28, 2007 05:43pm | #8

   Brod:

   Thanks again for the tip.

   Housenut1