Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 07, 2000 10:02am | #1

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   It really depends on the finish material, the intended design, and the radius of the corner. You say "mica", so I'll assume you meant the mineral with platy cleavage. If the stone countertop hangs past the cabinets, you can, say, use a wood moulding set like a mini crown. Or, you could use the same stone, cut into 1-2" strips at the radius for the facing. Be sure to back bevel the strips to allow for a tight fit. The possibilities are legion.

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   Guest_ | Feb 07, 2000 06:32pm | #2

   *I'm going to assume you are talking about plastic laminate, "formica". As far as the radius I try not to get much smaller than 8" or so, but you can bend a tighter radius by heating the laminate carefully, or useing verticle grade laminate which is about half as thick as standard laminate.To trim the edge I usually just use the same laminate trimmer and setup as I use on the straight parts, then use a belt sander to make sure the edge is perfectly flush with the counter deck, just make sure the rotation of the belt is pulling the laminate against the counter at all times. Hope this helps, Chuck

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   Guest_ | Feb 08, 2000 02:46am | #3

   *If you are talking plam, and use edgeband (vert grade) for the edge, make sure that you have a true square edge or the edgeband will ride up or down and soon be off in nowhere land. Dry fit and try to have an end that isn't trapped and can be trimmed off. And make your radius as true round as you can so there's no air in there. Complete contact is a must. The tighter the curve, the harder it will be. Best of luck, and maybe have a squirt bottle of laq. thinner handy just in case.

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   Guest_ | Feb 08, 2000 07:54am | #4

   *Holy Cow! "Mica" is the hip slang for that plastic laminate. I don't use the stuff, so what did you expect?

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   Guest_ | Feb 09, 2000 12:07pm | #5

   *No Problem!1. Substrate prep is crucial. Make sure your straight runs are perfect tangents to your arcs, (use a router with a bearing trim bit and a template to ensure your edge remains square to your countertop.)2. Edgeband with whatever you want. granted, vg is easier to work with, but you sure don't want to have to buy a whole sheet of the stuff just for one piece of banding. What I've done in the past is reduce the thickness of the edgebanding for the radius of the curve with 50 grit on my belt sander. Be careful, though--keep it a consistent thickness from side to side. (I've done radii down to 1-1/2" this way.) It's best to sand, then immediately try to form the piece around the curve while the plastic is still hot from the sander.3. Be sure to adhere your longest straight run first--this gives you better alignment and reduces the chance your edgebanding will be high or low on one end.4. Trimming--do it just the same, with the same tools you use to trim the rest of the job. Just pay extra attention that your router doesn't "rock" as you go over the curve.5. Filing is always the biggest pain in the a** around those curves. Just take your time--use a fine or dull file to avoid digging in on one spot.No rocket science; not the easiest thing in the world, either.Have fun, Syd Hawkins

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   Rob_Moulthrop | Feb 10, 2000 07:25am | #6

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   Heating the mica with a heat gun promotes flexability on tight curves, just don't scorch it!

   Sanding the back of the edge-band works, but if you are able to see the profile from the top It can look uneven and shoddy. I don't suggest romoving any thickness from the edge-band unless it will be concealed by the top. Syd is right-patience is the key!

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   Guest_ | Feb 10, 2000 11:14am | #7

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   You're right, rob--our s.o.p is such that the top always conceals the top of the edgeband--makes for a better watertight joint to have no exposed vertical seams.

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   Guest_ | Feb 10, 2000 11:37am | #8

   *If you were at my shop I wood show you how... I do as tite as a 2.5 inch radius withh the help of a heat gun..On post formed tops [ factory made ] I just soften the corner slightly.. 1 inch to a 3 inch bend that I do with a belt sander. [ a french curve is a good way to mark it ] L. Siders

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   Guest_ | Feb 12, 2000 06:47am | #10

   *Try and old iron if you don't have a heat gun. Thats what i use because it free's up a hand and allows u to put pressure on the laminate. ( keep a spare ripper, you just might need it ) Good Luck!

4. 
   andy_k | Feb 12, 2000 06:47am | #9

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   i need any advice i can get on making round corners on a counter top.such as whats the best way to trim the mica on the round parts. how tight of a curve can i make.and anything else that will help me. thank you