I am using a bearing guided router bit to remove the sheathing from window and door openings. The bearing falls off the end of the bit while routing. I have gone through 3 bits so far in the course of 18 windows and doors. I am at a bit (no pun intended) of a loss as to why. These are brand new Bosch 1/2″ x 1″ with 1/2″ shank. Any ideas?
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Replies
If they are all the same, bosch, try another brand. I stay with whiteside and freud for bits, cmt have a good rep but I have not used them. If the screw is getting loose, lock tite might work to keep it from vibrating out.
My imagination has the bearings overheating so it stops spinning freely and threads out
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the bit is over heating...
go with CMT for a much better bit...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Very interesting, Mr. Bosch!
thank you....
a down spiral panel bit would be a good choice too...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
wonder how I knew...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
this is slightly off topic... sorryI stopped by Sears the other day for a 1/2" roundover bit (2 blocks from jobsite) and there wasn't one in the lockup case so the salesman said to wait and he would look on the stock truck that had just been brought out from the back cause he knew that they had been on order. I follow him and he grabs a box with BOSCH on the side and pulls out a Craftsman router bit. I asked him if BOSCH made Craftsman router bits to which he responds "yep, same thing and sometimes they screw up at the factory and send us a box with Bosch branded bits mixed in"
who-a-thought
-day
the bulk of the Bosch bits ya get here in the US are made in the Carolinas and then Europe then China...
read the label...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
BTW...
use a spiral piolet bit for this application...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
cmt panel bit link
go here for a look see...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
This is just an impresion but I think some of the Bosch product isn't as top shelf as they would like you to think. They are having parts made all over too. Just like most companies. Maybe you should try some others.
I just ordered some blades from the Bosch factory outlet and they really messed up the order. The service wasn't that great either. They mixed up their own numbers and sent the wrong parts. Then they said they don't make them any more. I ended up buying from somewhere else for less.
Either the CMT or the Amana bits will work. They don't have a ball bearing guide. It is a solid steel guide so it is bomb proof. Yes it will burn the 2X framing a little but so what.
http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/45506.html
The bits we use have no bearing on them - Just a solid round thingy. It burns the wood alittle, but doesn't really matter.
We ain't building a piano.
Will they work on a violin?
JD,
I see some have already posted the answer to your problem and I agree with those who say to get a panel pilot bit. It is what they are made for anyway. The point allows you to punge the bit in, crating it's own pilot hole. You don't need to order from a catalog or website, just run down to the depot (http://tinyurl.com/2zc5mq). I recommend the 1/4" shank, 1/4" cutter. It cuts faster and vibrates less than with the 1/2" cutter. Either way, if you try to go too fast you will fry the bit and break it.
As far as the bearing bit goes, you are using too large of a bit. Just as with the panel pilot bit, the larger cutter creates more vibration and there is nothing you can do, the bearing will work it's way loose. Worse yet you could melt the bearing if trying to cut through thick materials or hard materials. These bits are made more to shave than to cut.
gk
router to cut openings? I think put the effort into something that will make a difference. Chainsaw or sawzall for cutting sheathing.