I developed a new technique yesterday:
“Thermometer Bulb” approach to Fluting without burning the flute ends. I use several light passes to minimize heating and before the final pass, I plunge straight down and back up, quickly, at both flute ends.
With all the material removed from the ends, there is no pausing and burning at the ends during the final pass.
I did 27 flutes yesterday in a couple of hours, and virtually no burning.
Made a video of it, not the best (I picked the board that was a skosh too long for my jig), but you might get the idea:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OtfuVm_ShM&feature=channel_page
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Neat. And in oak, yet, which burns when you look at it wrong.
How is your jig set up? I usually use a router table setup for flutes, which yields some inconsistentsies/burn marks.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
I've set the jig up a few different ways. Here are a couple of pictures:
Brian,Nice set-up. I know you are matching existing millwork. For non-column flutes I run the flutes through the ends, set the bottom on a plinth and a small piece of non-fluted stock on the top. The transition is covered with trim.Thanx for sharing the clip and tip.Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Funny , the different approaches. I scoop a smidge with a gouge to both rid any burn and taper the stop point just a smidge.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
That's a good look as well.Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Good point on fluted stock landing on a plinth. For stopped flutes, this new approach (I just tried a couple of days ago), is working well.Cheers,Brian
Thanks, I needed that!
AitchKay
Glad to help. Works pretty well... a sharp bit helps too.
you using Dino's EZ there?
http://www.cliffordrenovations.com
http://www.ramdass.org
I'd hope he bought his own.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Yep. I like it.I already have a bunch of routers, saws, and a Fein vac... so I won't be "going green" anytime soon.All the best,Bass
Nice and clean! I just assumed burnt flutes were a character mark! LOL
I always had to hand sand some, but most of my fluting always got paint anyways.
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Yeah, flute ends are usually kinda shadowy... and with the end-grain there--taking more stain... minor burns are OK... they sorta blend in.Burn free is good though.thanks,Bass
Nice video, I worry for your thumbs. What type of disc are you using to remove the wood? Sorry I'm referring to the other video.
Nick,So far I've coped about a thousand times with a grinder (often a 100 copes on a single large job) and never got myself yet. It would hurt like heck, for sure. I imagine that you would drop the grinder in an instant and suffer a very bad abrasion.With the dust, sneezing is a hazard. One good sneeze could mess you up.Always good to be careful,Bass
Do you get much lateral play with the guide way out like that?
Looks like it would bind, but obviously doesn't.
Interesting technique, thanks for sharing... one thing though, what's up with that camera angle? Made my neck sore<G>http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
I'm the worlds worst cameraman, that's all. ;o)
Brian-I like the camera angle, it's 'dynamic'.
OK cool.I make no claims of being a cinematographer though. <g>
Brian, I checked out the four videos. Pretty cool. you can tell a lot about a carpenter by his jigs I think. I like carpenters who take the time to set themselves up for success. So many don't realize that taking time at the beginning of a job to get set up right can make all the difference in the world in both time and ease. Wish I could instill that in my guys.
I'd like to try coping with a grinder. What do you use for a wheel or disk?View Image
Brian,Glad you liked the videos... I'm just messing around with that stuff for fun.I do get paid back fast with most jigs I make, IMO.I use two 36 grit sanding disks back to back. They tend to "potato chip" so I'm careful to stack them with their camber in opposition... so they flatten each other out as you tighten the arbor nut down. Otherwise they can go wonky and detonate. ;o)
No backing? Just the disks?View Image
Yep.
Cool, thanks. Can't wait to try it.View Image
The guide is way out because I am fluting a dozen 14" column faces too (the one in the video is for an 8x8 column), so the rail is back out of the way, but I like having the router close to me for control.I have learned a few tricks to preventing binding:Telfon Dry Lube on the track.If moving the router to the right, pull lightly toward toward yourself with the right router handle and push away from yourself very slightly with the left handle, as you go.Visa versa, for moving left. Works pretty well.
What does it cost to buy that rail and router guide? I am thinking of doing some flutes when I renovate my kitchen. My past exper5ience with flutes has not been easy. The setup time and wasted wood were two big negatives.
I have not even bothered to try flutes in oak for those reasons. Pine gave me enough trouble.
Also, I didn't understand how you were holding down the stops with the dowels from looking at the video.
I paid around $225 for the 100" (two 50" sections) rail set-up for a CS and add $150 for the router base and adjustable arm that rides the rail. So $375 total to guide both a saw and router. Not cheap, but "handy as all get out."For those who don't already have saws, routers and vac system... then check into Festool... or these days maybe DeWalt, or Makita,
I already have the Festool TS55 with the short rail, so I was trying to avoid paying about $225 for the longer rail, which is about 105" or thereabouts.
I am tempted to buy their router, which comes with another short rail and the router guide. Considering what you paid for the rail and guide, I could get a Festool router with a rail and a guide for around $500.
Decisions, decisions!How can you understand God if you can't understand people? How can you understand people if you can't understand yourself?
http://www.eurekazone.com/
You can buy stops for the rails. None of this stuff is cheap but as Basswood says it works well.
The things that look like dowels in the video are vinyl j channel that I used like shims with the long leg of the "j" wedging the stop block onto a 2x4 cleat... hard to explain.
That makes sense. Great idea!How can you understand God if you can't understand people? How can you understand people if you can't understand yourself?
Here is my last batch of fluting (about 90 flutes). Glad to be done.
Looks like you have earned the title of "Accomplished Flautist"
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Looks like you have earned the title of "Accomplished Flautist"
I received a similar honor recently. Accomplished Flatulist."...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
"Accomplished Flatulist."
Better check for burn marks.
ROFLMAO!!!!"...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
That was really, really funny!Hey, I submitted this "no-burn fluting" tip to FHB and it looks like they are gonna publish it.That will be my 4th item to be printed in '09. In this economy, you have to do just about anything for money. ;o)
awesome tip Brian! i will definately be using that one.
Yup. I'm way more better at fluting than I ever wanted to be. ;o)