I’m going to be building my own router table so I can make raised panel doors,does any one out there have an opinion on which of the following 3 routers would be the best for this. Porter Cable 3 1/4 HP, Bosch 3 1/4HP or the Makita 3 1/4HP also what’s better a fixed or plunge base?
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Strictly opinions:
1) if I were buying a big router, I'd only consider a plunge; it'll get used eventually.
2) from all I'm hearing and seeing, the Bosch is the one that more people are buying
Therefore, it seems to come down to the Bosch plunge.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
I would consider buying a router lift. Rockler has a pretty nice one. They make them to fit various routers. You don't need a base, the router body is clamped in the lift, and raised and lowered from the table top. I'm sure there are a number of good lifts out there, this is the one I have and have been pleased with it.
I'll comment on the PC, since I've had it a few years now. I'm terribly disappointed. Out of the box, no problemo. Within a few months, a number of things which still exist b/c PC tech support told me, and I quote, "we don't design our routers to be used upside down." The problems - the soft start is unreliable, the speed control wavers on anything other than top speed, i.e. you put it on 10,000 rpm and it goes to 20, then 10, then 15, then 10, keeps this dance all through a cut. Really annoying, and potentially dangerous. Sawdust which falls onto the motor body interferes with the adjustment, since the spiral body needs to rotate to raise or lower the cutter. (This isn't a plunge). At it's worst, it simply won't start, typically after a few weeks of non use just hanging in the base. You have to flip the switch repeatedly until it gets the idea.
Upright, with a small bit, on full speed, it works fine. But then it's too heavy to just swing around a board for a little detail work.
I'm more disappointed since in practice, I pretty much like just about everything PC I've ever had. They biffed on trying to make nailguns, and I think the 3 1/4 Speedmatic is big screwup number two. I think I'd look into the Bosch as well. If you get a plunge (maybe you know this) pulling the springs out of the plunge mechanism is a pretty typical way of making your height adjustments go easier.
" Blessed are the forgetful: for they get the better even of their blunders" - Nietzsche
You also may want to post this at knots, they could probably give you an ear full and then some.
buy the time you buy a good enough router and build a lift table you may as well buy a small sahper which will do the job better, faster, and a lot safer..
Grizzley sells one for $225.00 I have the Jet version of it and it's done about 10,000 bd.ft. for me already.
It's a one pass machine rather than several like a router table will be. The cutters stay sharper longer and there are things you can do with a shaper that you can't do with a router..
For a router table, P-C fixed base IMO. I've got lots of P-C's (and some Bosch's, and some other models), including the 3.25 hp in both fixed and plunge....never had any problems with speed or whatever, as mentioned.No problems period. For sheer grunt work, it's P-C....walk into almost any solid surface fabricators shop, anywhere...it will be wall to wall P-C, and that's a demanding environment. I like Bosch for more delicate stuff, and plunge routers defintiely have their place. But they also come with some built in slop...the tolerance that enables them to plunge...and if you're going to be making doors, the more rigid the better.
Now, I've never really looked at one of these machines...but one of my students came to me yesterday, and he's been looking at a Delta 'router/shaper'...basically a dedicated router table. May be something to look at, because it's an induction motor, not a universal, and it may avoid some of the 'upside down router' issues. But that's not a recommendation, because I don't know anything more about the machine than a catalogue description.cabinetmaker/college instructor. Cape Breton, N.SWAY too conservative to be merely right wing
I reconmend to PC varible speed. i d go with the plunge it seems like it might be easier to adj. I have the fixed base now. No problems with it I used the heck outta mine had it for about 4 years build numerous cabs and cab doors with it. Last time it was a complete kitchen inc cabs and drawers, doors and moldings ect out of hickory. Finally wore the bearings out had them replaced and back at it. I would reconmend a foot pedal for it inna rt table though
Darkworks: The French "Cheese eatin surrender monkies"..Grounds Keeper Willie
Are you ever going to use the 3 1/4 as a hand-held unit? Probably not...that's what the 1.5-2.0 hp routers are for.
In a router table, a router with a fixed base is much easier to adjust than a plunge router. Plus, I can't recall a single reason to use the plunge function in a router table.
The 3 1/4 will spin everything from 3 1/2" raised panel bits to a simple straight cut bit, so variable speed is a neccessity.
I've had the PC 3 1/4 for maybe...five years? Lots of use spinning 3 1/2" rasied panel bits, never a hiccup. Their motors don't ever seem to die.
The Bosch has a better micro-adjustment and runs a little bit quieter.
Your choice...Bosch or PC. I recommend fixed base, variable speed.
Mongo--I agree with you on the fixed base---that's what I've used for 6+ years......I did try the plunge base for the Porter Cable that I have--it's definitely worse for adjusting even though I have good access to the table underside. Hard to squeeze the plunge release and then see what you are doing for bit height--also it was 'lurching' and hard to land on exact setting. I even tried adding an extended fine-adjust knob--would have to pull springs out to get better adjustability. Couldn't get as much bit exposure with the plunge, either.
The BEST thing I ever did for the router was install a keyless chuck. It really works, grips 1/2' shanks as well as 1/4' with a collet adaptor. Just don't get the "Eliminator" one: it has 2 very small split wedges that bite into the side of a 1/2" shank, and it not only gouges the shank badly, the bits get stuck. Takes a lot of effort to tighten properly, with the small allen key which wanted to strip out using their supplied T-handled allen. Worked a little better on 1/4" because at least then the wedges were biting into their collet adaptor but still no good. I sent it back and bought the Jacobs version. Awesome holding power, never has slipped, easy to change bits from above, no wrench of any kind needed. Just pull up on the locking collar.
Has anyone tried the Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP new router yet? It has the built-in above the table adjustment adjustment feature like the 'Body Grip' one.........
I've been seeing the Triton router in ads....same feature though it's a plunge, they've made it easy to disable the plunge spring--also the collet extends really far to allow access for bit changing above the table.......(if you don't want to install a q. release chuck......) But who is Triton? any track record????Lil'Acorn
Just so the scales are balanced, I've had some differing experiences...
Tried 2 3 1/4 fixed base PCspeedmatics in a router table, both jammed so badly , the threads scored. Woodworker's Supply replaced both, and we went with the plunge model. Never jammed or had fluctuating speed problems, but it was a bear to adjust. A real workhorse, though.
I've got a D handled fixed 690 that I use upside down sometimes, right side up all the time, no problems.
I've got a 3 1/4 hp Bosch 1615 plunge that I use up and upside down constantly, never any problems.
I've had the Freud and Ryobi 3 1/4 hp plungers, and I never knew how badly they ran out until I got the PC and Bosch.
I got those Jacobs keyless chucks for both the Bosh and PC, the runout and height adjustment loss put them in my crawlspace, somewhere...
IMHO Bosch has routers and jigsaws down...
give me 2 more cents, and I'll tell you how I really feel<G> EliphIno!
I've had a Ryopbi 3.25 hp plunge router in my table for over ten years. If I had to do it over again, I'd use a hefty fixed based machine. The plunge is awkward to adjust, and the columns needs to be cleaned of sawdust occaisionally. I have separate plunge and fixed base routers for hand-held work.
Whatever you decide to get, ensure it is variable speed and has a soft electronic start.
Fortunately, my DW bought me a Jet reversible shaper in January for our anniversary, so my router table does more dust collecting now than routing. I agree with a few of the other posters, for the price you will pay for the beefy router and materials and time to build your table, spring a few hundred more and get a small shaper. You can still run your router bits in it.
Check out the Freud 3 1/4 hp for $180.00 at Tool Crib of the North-Amazon.com
its one of those More Bang for your Bucks kind of tools..
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As you know, that CNC (Computer Numerical Control) routers have become an important requirement for wood makers in today’s world. When you buy the best and efficient router, you feel more hesitant in choosing the best one. For this reason we have included such efficient, durable, reliable best desktop CNC router kits, mid-range machines, and professional CNC router systems so that you can buy easily according to your desire and stay tuned with this article for good buying guidance.