I’m in the process of building my own router table (the manufactured ones that get the really good reviews seem very $$$$$). I’ve got a router base that I can leave attached to the table so I was going to skip the plate insert and do a direct attach. I was planning on a 3/4 ” sheet of MDF on top of a 3/4″ sheet of ply wood. I’d cut through the ply and 1/4 into the MDF leaving 1/2″ of MDF to attach the base to. I’d either have one large bit hole or locate a 2nd smaller bit hole in the top. Questions, is my idea feasible? Any recommendations on building a base? Also what are optimal length and width for the top (space is not a problem…the basement is mine)?
Thoughts, recommendations, better ideas, books or plans would be appreciated.
Replies
Random thoughts. An insert is very practical, and worth it. It lets you change bits easier, and change the hole dimension via inserts.
The table itself, bigger is better to a point. You don't need as much room front to back as you do side to side. You do want enough to support whatever it is you're going to be routing. Most premades I suspect you've found are in the neighborhood of 2' x 3' or so. That's really not all that bad. I think the top I made is 42" wide and 2' deep. The only downside of going bigger is the whole thing gets bigger, your fences get bigger, and if you're dumb enough (guilty) to try and transport it on occasion, all the weight just gets old. But I wouldn't do it if it wasn't worth it.
Since you're building it, put a little thought into height. I think most premades are way too short. Ideal for me is about in line with the belt buckle. But I'm 5' 16"+ barefoot, so I hate hunching over a short table.
Don't underestimate how much dust it's really going to generate. A shop vac doesn't cut it for long. Ideal, again, is having something which removes all the waste dust that falls past the router body as well as something which removes, rapidly, all the dust that is sitting at the bit and trying to jam up your fence.
Buying a metal slot to route into the top is a great idea. You can use squares, coping sleds, clamp featherboards in it, etc. Versatile and cheap. Making hold-downs for the fence is just as useful and probably more important if you want your profiles to stay consistant.
A light switch, I believe (and speaking from experience) is an accident waiting to happen to you, the table, the router, the bit, or the wall 6 feet away. I know the push button deals are 50 bucks or better; not using one risks coughing up a lot more in parts or doctor bills.
"If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain
Thank You for the input. As for inserts does anybody make one that will go into the table itself without using an entire insert plate?
Norm made one on this old house, believe the plans and kit are available from the Rockler catlogue.Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
There were plans in Popular Science or Popular Mechanics long ago. Might still be available.
Bruce
Between the mountains and the desert ...
Current issue of FWW has an article on router tables. I have not read it yet, but it's the cover picture.
Check Rockler supply. They sell the parts for fences and inserts, and I think they sell the plans too.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt