Guys,
I have to seam 7-1/4 inch crown (45 degree spring angle). The crown is poplar and will be painted. Any suggestions on whether I should use a biscuit and a butt joint or the more traditional angle cut. I’ll do whatever is least likely to telegraph through the paint over time.
Also, if you recommend an angle cut, is the cut away from the light or towards it?
Thanks.
FR
Replies
I'd cut a 30 deg beveled straight cut and back it up with a block fastened to both sides. Glue the snot out of it all, pinning the joint.
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Calvin,Bevel towards or away from the light? This will be about 2 feet from the corner. FR
You are going to fit this well, sand a bit and make it disappear.
Whatever way you want-but, I would put up the long pc first, then fit the short one. Assuming the long one is going to be the cope. If both are coped, a little more careful fitting.
that's all.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I always use a scarf cut, actually, just a 90 degree miter across the face. It doesn't have to be 45 degrees. Sometimes it's a lot easier to cut a 30 on big stuff. Getting it just right should leave the surface nice and flush. Much better glue surface than a biscuit or butt joint. I prefer to have the next piece overlap the previously in stalled piece. I also like to work around a room clockwise on crown, that way I'm always repeating the same cope. Ideally, the scarf should face away from the visual vantage point.
As far as not telegraphing through, good luck. Wide pieces will expand and contract over time. It's likely one may move differently than the adjacent one, thereby breaking the glue. If it works out, nailing on a stud helps by placing a small nail right through the overlap. I don't nail the bottom piece on the scarfed end, waiting until the top piece goes over. I'm looking up at my crown right now. I might have one open scarf out of six or seven, the ones closest to the wood stove, LOL. They are around 25 yrs. old and only 4".
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hammer,Thanks. My plan was to scarf, glue and clamp the molding on the ground, let it cure, then install it like a single piece. I thought I could get a better seam on a solid work surface than mid-installation. I'm hoping the glue, clamp, etc. will hold the joint tight over time.FR
My plan was to scarf, glue and clamp the molding on the ground, let it cure, then install it like a single piece.
I'd say that's the best suggestion yet.
The solid block backing is a good one too, as end grain doesn't glue nearly as well as face grain. ~ Ted W ~
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Lay it on it's back, and slice matching 45° bevels (tilt the saw to the side) on the pieces. Set up backing and shoot it home. Be careful on the selection of the pieces to ensure a good match.
Backing. Always.
For a crown or picture mold job I will usually make up a bunch of backing stock cut to the correct spring angle.
View Image
Edited 4/14/2009 9:50 pm by kenhill3
I laughed at the butt joint/biscuit thing the first time I heard it....
But if it was me.............that's how I'd do it.
A friend of mine showed me that. After he showed me a almost year old house with Poplar crown. it was done with biscuits and I couldn't find a single joint.
I have done these by using some 1/8th" masonite as a backing splice and Liquid Nailing the pieces to the block along with some brads and then putiing up as one. Just be sure you have room behind the molding so it doesn't push the molding off the wall.
As for which way to bevel the scarf, the rule is to make it so you can't see into the cut when you enter the room. Same goes for copes.
6 of one half dozen of the other.
I also like to lay it all up on the wall piece by piece.
others prefer the glue first method.
My way ... I cut the second stick a hair long ... glue and nail the snot out of it ...
then go back when it's dry and sand it all flush.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
I also lay most of it up on the wall, the bigger sections, anyway.When there's some smaller pieces/copes/miters, I like to pre-assemble some of the parts, like the photo I posted above.