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After hearing about this paint I thought it must be superior to anything out there. I tried both their latex & oil paints. I still don’t see what the rage is. The oil based paint has a very short open time. It starts to set before you have a chance to spread it. Even if it’s thinned it really doesn’t help. I tried one of the paint brushes they recommend using with this paint & it’s really not much different than anything else I’ve tried in the past. It’s a nice brush, but it’s not worth $30. Just my two cents worth.
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Do the name Martha ring a bell? I went to their Paints of Europe web site and found that I could order a "free" sample pot of their acrylic paint -- free, plus $5.00 S&H. Maybe not so free.
*a euro qt is $25 so...
*RichieG- Something definitely doesn't sound right here. One of the great things I’ve found about Hascolac is it self-leveling properties and I’ve never had any kind of problems with it regarding a short open time. There has to be something particular to the circumstances you tested the product under that lead to that kind of result. Was the surface properly primed? If you paint Hascolac (or most any other oil based paint) over oak, mahogany or any other open grain wood and sure the open time will be very short as the solvents in the paint get sucked right up be the woods structure. Same thing would be true for poor primed drywall too. I’m not saying that’s what happened in your circumstances but that is potentially one problem that could have possibly occurred. Perhaps you could detail the conditions under which you applied the coating and maybe we could look at the problem closer.While I think the working qualities of the coatings are great (i.e. self-leveling and brushability) the finished qualities (almost lacquer like surface) and durability are it biggest pluses. There are a few poplar cabinet doors and some molding from a project we did seven years ago in the junk pile outside by my woodshed. I’m always amazed that not only has the poplar been so well protected from the weather that it’s still solid and showing no signs of rot but if you wipe of the grim of leaves and mud the pieces look like they’re still new. The paint is a "marine" type coating.I’ve generally found that colors that are sort of "lavender-like" in other paints fade as time goes by and lose their brilliance but in the case of Hascolac I have yet to find this the case. When remodeling "painting in" to an old Hascolac finish is far less of a problem than it is with so many other paints. It’s extremely color and finish fast. I written here before regarding Schreuder paints and if anyone so chooses they can click and see what I’ve said then Best quality paint #10 or they can also check out the Schreuder web site:http://www.finepaints.com > Even if it's thinned it really doesn't help.In my opinion when brushabilty is a problem thinning is never the correct answer. While I don’t know what the exact circumstances of your project were the two way of improving brushability that I consider acceptable are adding Penetrol for oils and Flowtrol for latex paints. Never add thinner or water unless translucency or transparency is the desired effect.> I tried one of the paint brushes they recommend using with this paint & it's really not much different than anything else.I couldn’t really tell you about that since I don’t even know the brand of brushes they recommend are. If it is a Schreuder brand brush I am pretty sure it probably isn’t made by Schreuder but another company that they have licensed their name for. The point is when you are using great paint they recommend you use great brushes too. When I was just out of college twenty something years ago I bought a bunch of Hausmann scene painting brushes (I went to school for theatre design & technology) which were ridiculously expensive European top-shelf brushes (1-1/2 or 2 inch cut liner was $30 back in 1979). Not only were they great tools in that they held tons of paint and held and cut to a line remarkably well. They also took a beating and held up over the years too never losing a bristle. I’ve successfully rescued them after they gone hard (which is a real true sign of a great brush in my estimation, you can’t rescue a cheap brush) and outside of a few that were lost I still have them today. I have taken them out of regular service though and no longer share them keeping them for my own personal use now.I’m about to purchase some Hascolac this week so maybe I'll check out the Schreuder recommended brushes then a see what the deal is with them.While I do use and recommend other brands of paints and coatings I’ve been thrilled by Scheuder paints and at the very least can recommend them for being the toughest longest lasting coating I’ve seen ( one caveat being that preparation is everything and even Schreuder paints wont cover up or make up for a poorly prepared or engineered substrate)Steve--as for the "Martha" thing with regard to Schreuder paint the Schreuder paints are not K-Mart Martha Stewart paints. They are the Martha Stewart colors in Schruder paints.> I went to their Paints of Europe web site and found that I could order a "free" sample pot of their acrylic paint -- free, plus $5.00 S&H. Maybe not so free.On come on geez, Steve! As contractors we complain about how cheap our customers are and yet we don't want to shell out $5 for shipping and handling? Isn't that just the pot calling the kettle black.
*jerrald. you achieve a lacquer-like finish using a brush with this product? spray finish must be excellent!brian
*"Lacquer-like" is the key qualifier there. You can still tell the difference but a lot of people can be fooled by it. It's actually even hard to intentionally get brush marks to show using Hascolac it levels so well. But and it’s still a big BUT the key is always in the preparation. For those times where you actually need to have brush marks in your finish such as restoration work where you are trying to match the technique on existing old doors you are better off not using Hascolac.
*I think they sell the same brushes that HD sells under the Ralph Lauren brand (Italian ?) for trick finishes and some English brushes for straight painting.