Replies

1. 
   csnow | Nov 25, 2003 09:14pm | #1

   Slinding things are inherently difficult to seal.

   Your best bet would likely be to fabricate some sort of threshold.

   Once saw one made from a length of PVC pipe cut in half.

   The door bottom was routed concave to match the profile of the PVC (to keep it 'on track), and door bottom had 2 rows of nylon brush seal (on each side of routed area) to sweep on the PVC.

   This was on a sliding barn door, and a major plus to this design was that this sort of 'convex' threshold did not accumulate water, ice, or debris.  Nor did it create a tripping hazard

   Perhaps you could use some of the specialized seals from this outfit.

   http://www.conservationtechnology.com/

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/25/2003 1:24:53 PM ET by csnow

1. 
   IMERC | Nov 25, 2003 09:31pm | #3

   Set the door level or you can match the door to the concrete.

   Install a crossover threshhold on the CC. Scab a filler piece to the bottom of the. (now's the time to really match up the fit) Add a door gasket.

   Plan "B"

   Slope the threshold and mate the bottom of the door to match. Say a 1/4 to 3/8" slope over the width of the door. Set the slope of the threshold so that when the door is closed you have a snug gasketed fit. When the door is slid open a gap opens and the door gasket doesn't drag on the threshhold.

   See it as you are closing the door, the door gasket makes a firm contact on the last foot of closure.  

   Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....

1. 
   csnow | Nov 25, 2003 09:47pm | #4

   Hey Imerc,

   Cool idea!  No friction while sliding until the last bit of travel.

1. 
   IMERC | Nov 25, 2003 10:39pm | #6

   It works on the biggest and meanest of doors. The wimps too.

   Most common door in these parts. 

   Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....

2. 
   Sphere | Nov 25, 2003 10:10pm | #5

   Did I read a 4" gap?...

1. 
   IMERC | Nov 25, 2003 10:40pm | #7

   Yup 

   Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....

2. 
   TimGoins | Nov 26, 2003 08:14am | #9

   Yes give or take. The bottom of the door sits below slab Hat

1. 
   IMERC | Nov 26, 2003 08:52am | #10

   Add a butting threshold to the slab so that it's up against the insise of the door. Put a wiper gasket on the face of the threshold. 

   Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....

2. 
   goldhiller | Nov 25, 2003 09:22pm | #2

   Hat,

   Clarification, for me at least........if you would. Do you need to seal directly under the bottom edge of the door or against the side of the door's bottom? In other words does this door live on top of your slab floor or outside of it?

   I presume there's a frame to this door..???

   Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
1. 
   TimGoins | Nov 26, 2003 07:36am | #8

   It is next to slab. It is hanging from the hardware at the top. Thanks Tim

1. 
   goldhiller | Nov 26, 2003 06:26pm | #11

   There's probably many different avenues to keeping the mice and weather out. Using the KISS principle, I drew up a few that might serve to give you ideas.

   If none of those seem appropriate or suitable, you could also consider doing what I did at my shop, which has a pair of roll doors. I made and mounted a second set of doors and tracks just inside the roll doors. These are a pair of open frame sliding doors (with center stile in each) that occupy the entire area of the roll door jamb opening and have screen mounted in them for the summer. I made a second set of frames which house rigid insulation panels and these are applied over the screens for winter (one on the outside of one door and the other on the inside of the other door). The result for me is one of pretty weather-tight inexpensive versatility that allows using the entire opening because the doors and guides (fastened to floor and head jamb) are built such that you can simply lift up on either door and slip the bottom of the door out of the floor guides giving immediate access to the entire opening when needed for moving machinery or really large objects in and out of the shop. And when those stiff north winds are howling against those doors, I can simply roll the outside doors shut too and that helps take alot of the bite out of that wind.

   With the roll doors shut at night, they serve to keep the snowdrifts out of the secondary doors so some troubles of winter are eliminated and the inner set of doors are protected from rain in the summer months. The floor guides are screwed down and easily removed if I need to drive right into the shop with a piece of machinery on the skidloader.

   Edit: Realized that two of the ideas I sketched violated the KISS principle as they would require that you had space in between the inside of the doors and the siding to accomdate them. That could cause you to rehang the doors, bumping out the track. The gap could be closed with wider stoppings, but that sort of thing should be a last resort really. I'll post the simpler ideas in exchange.

   Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

   Edited 11/26/2003 4:08:53 PM ET by GOLDHILLER

   
2. 
   goldhiller | Nov 27, 2003 12:30am | #12

   See if either of these might work for you and get you sealed tight enough for winter. Gonna depend on how flat and true your doors are, I think.

   Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.