’99 Chevy 6L engine in the 2500 4×4
This past week there have been a couple of times when it seemed to choke like the old carburated engines did when too much choke or you try to drive before it warms up right.
I thought – maybe time for a fuel filter…
Then yesterday right as I finished plowing it got steadily worse ’till she barely wanted to pull up over a hill.
I think – hmmmm – lotta flooding and water splashing so must have wet electronics. Until I remembered no it has been doing kinda like this for a week occasionally….????
Then I get a shower and remember the wife wanted me to meet her for a dessrt party and I jump back in the truck to run down there.
I get halfway and the dash light announces “Service Engine soon” just as it starts running rough again. Made it home and back, but today when I went to check the jobs, I used the old Battlestar ’85 GMC van. God, how I love that tank!
So I’m wondering – Am I going to be buying new injectors?
About 64K miles on it of mostly local driving.
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Probly not injectors. But check out the O2 sensor, the mass air flow/temp sensor and the EGR valve. I did all those changes on my GMC, and still have the same fuel injectors at 250K miles.
Edit to add. Any shop with a computer code reader will localize whats needed in a jiffy...my last was a dirty EGR, they added a new type of gasket with a carbon filtering screen, fixed her right up. The carbon build up I had is from a leaking fuel rail,that makes it run rich.
" I press my lips against her name"
Edited 3/18/2007 6:05 pm ET by Sphere
Oh, I know the code reader will tell them plenty. I was just trying to borrow trouble and wondering how much $$$ to be starting to worry about.
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O2 sensor was 20 bucks, Mass air sensor was less. EGR ( new) was 245.00$ . You CAN clean a bad EGR with brake cleen ( sometimes) and get the new gasket with that screen.
Fuel filter was 65.00 installed.
Good luck, sometines they are a pain to hunt down." I press my lips against her name"
could be a clogged Cat Converter too ..
but I'm going with your list ...
with the O2 sensor first .
Jeff
just thot ... he said plow truck right? OK ... put clogged Cat Converter at the top of my list ... plowing mighta knocked some crap loose to make for a nice clog.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Edited 3/18/2007 11:34 pm ET by JeffBuck
You'll hate this answer - not very definitive.
GM service engine soon lights come on for a number of reasons. Most common is the computer detects "a miss condition" - can be anything from a single plug not firing, to the gas cap isn't screwed on tightly.
Last week while basking in the 2 warm days in months, I decided it was time to see if I could figure out why the light was on in my '96. As it turned out, it was the fuel filter, probably full of goo from the change over to 10% ethanol, ethanol+MBTE = goo (technical term). Changed the filter, light went out after a few minutes of operation - has not come back on.
Your particular problem sounds like water in the fuel tank. H'mm, island surrounded by water, winter, water can do a lot of condensing in a partially full tank this time of year.
Good luck.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Edit: Was "pull up over a hill" a figure of speech or actual condition? I think the fuel pump and pick up are located in the rear of your tank - nose up condition would make any water slide to the rear of the tank worsening the condition.
Edited 3/18/2007 6:41 pm ET by JTC1
Exactly right.
I also noticed the other GMC phenonmenon....I had a rotor button that was all but in pieces, barely kept the engine running, never an SES light. Go figgure." I press my lips against her name"
The only time mine has ever left me stranded was also a rotor!
Had to get towed off interstate on a holiday weekend, take train home, return via road........ all over a rotor which decided to quit.
There is a spare under the seat now - which means it will never fail!
First hint of problem was when it died at 65 outside of Baltimore. No SES light for me either.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
This reminds me of the time I had an Olds 88 in for a tune up. I think it was about an '84 model.Anyway, when I got it back, it would run even rougher when I trounced on the go-pedal. I had asked for a new dis cap because the old one haad a crack and was letting water in sometimes. That thing sat at back right tight to the firewall. I went to check and see if they had replaced it or not. Shiny new thing made it apparent that it was new. I went to take it off to see if the rotor was new too and that is when I figured out what was wrong.The guy had not snapped tha clips to hold the cap on tight. If you more or less idled along, it ran fine, but yank the throttle and the torque and vibrations would make the cap bounce and jiggle...
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Condensation not so likely but I will put some of that hot stuff in the tank - drygas.I make a habit of NEVER letting it get below a half tank but generally keep it topped off better in winter. I can easily burn over a half tank plowing in a storm when the stores are closed this time of year.Still, our island tanks are known for occasionally having some wet or bad gas...
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If you use the ethanol blend, you're already using "dry gas". The problem with that stuff is that water and alcohol mix easily. If you have an Auto Zone near you, they'll hook up their scanner free. They may not know exactly what the codes are but if you write them down and call a dealer, you can find out what the cause may be. A '99 with 64K is really low miles and that tells me it sits for long periods. One thing that doesn't like moisture at all is the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor and this will throw a code, along with making it run like a stove. These often have a set of wires that the intake air flows through and if this is corroded, open or bad in some way, the ECM won't know how much fuel to deliver. If it's not getting a reading at all, it'll default to some nominal setting that will let you limp somewhere but you won't be winning any races. The plugs should be good for 100K, if you have the motor I think you do. What does the exhaust smell like- rich or just odd? I would be looking at the fuel quality and pressure. Bad gas is usually obvious and low pressure can indicate a bad filter. The fuel quality should be checked after running the truck on the road to get any garbage form the bottom of the tank suspended. If you have a fuel pressure gauge with the bleeder valve (or can get one to use), look on the fuel rail and remove the cap and use a rag to cover the Shrader valve while you attach the gauge. Start it and look at the pressure. TBI wants about 30 pounds and MFI wants about 40 pounds of pressure. It shouldn't drop significantly at any RPM. Get a clean glass or clear plastic bottle and put the thin vinyl hose on the gauge into the bottle. Press the button and let some gas go into the bottle (8oz should be fine- 16oz is better). Let it sit for about 15 minutes and look for anything that settles out. If it's cloudy, you may have to let it sit longer. If you see a lot of water at the bottom, you may need to get rid of the gas (if there's not much water, add alcohol). If it stays cloudy, you may need to get rid of the gas then, too. This means that it has gone into the separation phase and will not usually change back to good gas. If the gas sits for long periods, you need to know that the reformulated gas has a very short shelf life and starts to go bad in about 3 weeks. The O2 sensor can go bad from bad gas but I would be looking at the MAF first. The EGR is still a candidate, though. Check the air cleaner, make sure there are no loose hoses, change the PCV valve/oil/filter and put some Sea Foam in the tank. That stuff is good for cleaning injectors, among many other things. I would use the Sea Foam before changing the fuel filter since it could loosen some gunk that's in the fuel system.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Sea Foam - I'll run right down to the beach and grab a handfull...;)Thanks for all that , some more than I understand, but good background info.Smell - I have noticed an occasional strange smell - hard to describe - almost like AL burning hot. That make sense?So in the AM, (it is dark here now) I check all the hoses and wires for loose - I was planning that anyhow.I don't know if they are adding ethanol here yet or not...Oh yeah - this is a daily drive rig. The guy who owned it fro the first thrity thou drove it about 8 miles to work and back, and this being an island, I can't go more than 8-9 miles from home normally. A big day is sixty miles going back and forth between jobs. Some days it is two miles there and two miles home. Some days same thing but ten times 'cause IO forgotXXX;)
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Wal Mart and NAPA sell Sea Foam and most marinas do, too. Was the hot Al smell coming from the exhaust or the engine compartment? Kind of like the smell of someone welding? That can be the clutch for the AC compressor but I doubt if you're using that now.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
It was a bare wisp of a smell now and then, so I can't say where from. There are lots of smells on the jobsite when I pull in and climb out and it was nothing I was payiong much attention to at the time. If I had to bet, it would be exhaust.
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>>That can be the clutch for the AC compressor but I doubt if you're using that now.<<
AC compressor runs intermittently when using the defroster in GM trucks.
It's a pretty good bet that it is being used now, especially while plowing.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Yeah, defrost stays on full with windows open for visibility
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Had any luck figuring it out?
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Taking it to the dealer on Wednesday. I aasked the mechanic whether I should try this or that and he was pretty firm - don't do a darn thing to it until we read the codes. Could mess up their diagnostics. I read the book in the glove box that comes with it for that service light and it focussed on some of the same we've mentioned here - make sure gas cap is tight and did you drive through water laterly, check for water in fuel or change brands of fuel, etc
Also it stated not to work it hard on hills and no trailering to avoid damaging the engine until you limp into the dealer.
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Good luck tomorrow at the dealer - hopefully not too big $.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
So, all the shade tree mechanics are dying to know - was it a wet disgronificator or what?
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I guess it probably was!I ran to the ferry with it farting and missing Wed AM to run it over, shut it off on the ferry, then when I started it up again, it ran fine like always all the way to the dealer.Left it with them while I went to JLC Live. They called on the cell phone on eday to say all the other work ( service plow and fix a recall on tailgate strap, etc - all minor things) was done and that they could not find a code recordeed in the computer diagnostics at all. IOW, nothing was wrong with it.But the mechanic said that the hundred thousand mile plugs looked like they were already that old from all the short trips and that there was a bit of corrosion and resistance on the plug wires, so I OKed changing all that.They delivered it to the ferry parking lot for me, but I left it there getting home this afternoon, because I am going to be on the mainland Tuesday for somethings anyway. I'll walk over on the ferry and then give it a trial run to see how it goes. My other business is in the same town as the dealer....
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Thanks everybody - read the above post. I'll bring it back up if it isn't a happy truck yet. Probably a combination of water spray and worn plugs/wires from short trips in vicinity of salt water.
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Thanks for the update. Seems strange that no code set. If the light was on or flashing, there is absolutely no way a code would NOT be set. There is a VERY remote chance the computer is causing the hiccup and that might explain no code, but I doubt that is happening.The light could turn off by itself if the problem corrected itself and the system passed 3 self tests. But to erase the code completely, short of using a scan tool, would require 40 drive cycles with no failure. I doubt you've reached 40 trouble free drive cycles in the short amount of time since you first posted this. Infact the last known failure was when you parked it on the ferry, right?I don't want to sound skeptical or question your dealers findings, but something doesn't add up. If the plug or wire was the cause, a dtc P0300 or 301,302,303,etc. WOULD have been set.
I am certainly not going to argue the infalibilty of a dealer's mechanic.
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Why not? Do they walk on water?
"Why not? Do they walk on water?"
Only when it rains.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
and that's only because sh!t floats ;)
My '89 did that. It would start and run poorly, shut it off, start back up a few hours later and it would run like a dream. It ran so bad you would swear something major was wrong. Up a hill was the worst. It happened most frequently on humid/rainy days (moisture in the distributor). A new distributor cap and rotor solved it. I think running the truck and letting it sit cooked the moisture out of the cap.
Did you find out what was causing your limp?
Could be many things. At that mileage plug giving up, plug wire or coil on plug, dirty injector, clogged ERG valve, etc.
Take it to the chevy dealer for a check and service 'cause they have the kit to check it out! Most local guys can't aford the cost of special equipment.
Yes - the dealer.
They want to sell me a new one anyways...;)I'm thinking that as I leave for JLCLIVE on Wed AM I will drop the truck off to them to play with while I am gone.
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Check edit on xx329.3
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I caught that - thanks again. I been thinking and I do believe that it was always worse when running uphill all week.
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I had same symptoms going uphill. Turned out to be coil.
Wait till dark, open hood, and turn off all the lites.
Have someone rev engine, and watch for a faint blue spark.
That's it for my Knowledge on mechanics.
harbor freight has the code readers for like $30 it not only reads it but resets the system... ie turns off the check engine light... it can as many have stated be anything... the most simple in my case once was... a loose gas cap... autozone has the readers also about $10 more ...
won't know till you read the code... very simple deal
good luck
p
I know.And thanks for that too.But unless an emergency I don't DO mechanical work anymore. That and plumbing are two things wheere I draw the line. Something about them makes me feel grumpy and frustrated.I do like to be informed enough that I can point to a direction and that they won't try to pull the wool over my eyes, but this is one of those things I am GLAD to pay somebody else to do.I guess my bigger concern than cost was in the thread title - how soon? That SOON word really looms hanging there on the dash as though it is saying anthrpomorphicly, "Hint, hint, wink, wink, if you don't treat me to ___ this week, I'm going to lay down on the side of the road and really piss you off" I've seen GM service engine lights before and don't remember the SOON word
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Do yourself a favor...if you want to stay informed enough to have an idea of whether it's fix it now or fix it later, buy one of those cheap code readers. They're accurate enough now to point you in the right direction. Then you can search the web for the code explanation or post it here. Does it skip/act up at idle or just under load? Also, the minimum fuel pressure for that engine is 55 psi. Under that it will run like crap. Below 45 psi, it won't run at all.
the $70 code reader comes with a cd of codes that you can look up on your computer, but it only tells you what the computer senses which can be missleading. You need the Manufacturers repair book (Haines) also sold at autozones that has trouble shooting and common causes. I promise if you check your basic maintenances and electrical you will probably find the cause, I like the dirty air filter comment that was made. I dont want you to just start having stuff replaced though. also why the dealer? Is it under warranty? I say that because they are so expensive here and I use a local guy for anything requiring a lift but I trust him to be honest and only charge me for what he does. The dealership guys will charge what the book says to charge regardless of how much actual time it takes.
Piffan,
You spent what, over $35,000 for the truck and you'll put up with lousy mileage and risk being stranded because you won't go to the dealer and fork over $82 to read your code and know exactly what the problem is? At that point they can tell you what the part and labor will cost. Untill then it's pure speculation.
Please don't be penny wise and pound foolish.. check engine soon means do it now!
Don't wait untill it strands you.. what the heck you have On Star right? When it stops they'll tell you what the service will be most likely and what time to expect the tow truck.. so I guess you can continue..
Whoa! Don't go overboard yet without reading more...;)I do plan to get it to them and to not drive it - remember I have the trusty old '85 - until I take it straight to the dealer. I don't mind paying for them to find and fix it at all. It might even be covered under my bumper to bumper extended warrantee.
I just want hints of what to expect. Look at what I've learnt here already!But I bought this at about 30K miles for fifteen grand with the plow on it. I don't see myself spending $35K on a work truck. That way when I scratch it, I don't have a heart attack. I just say "Oh well,"
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No onstar on the 99 trucks. I think that was the year they staarted introducing that in the premium vehicles like the caddies and bravada
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Try replacing the air filter. I had the very same symptoms with my '99 camaro last year. I took it to Autozone and they hooked up their scanner which indicated that the engine was running rich - too much fuel or not enough air. The guy behind the counter said he thought it was probably an O2 sensor, but I was in the middle of a 4 hour drive and didn't have tools or ramps. I knew it had been a while since replacing the air filter, so I thought what the heck. I bought a new air filter - problem solved.
Now that makes sense too. It could have gotten wet with the way things were flooding across the road here this weekend.
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More than likely an O2 sensor. I seem to have to have one replaced every 50-60K. They're not that expensive on a 350 (I can't remember how many liters that is).
http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
"We have enough youth, how about a fountain of smart?"
I never got used to this stupid changover to metric either.I think the 6L is the next size bigger than the 350, but might be same block
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The 6.0L is a totally different motor. It's mostly aluminum and used captured O rings instead of most gaskets. It's also assembled robotically.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
A 350 is 5.7L
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Is it steady or flashing?
I remember from my Camaro days that steady on is emissions (cat, O2 sensor), & flashing is misfire (timing, plugs, etc).
Good Luck
when it first cameon, it was flashing for a minute or thereabouts, then wwent to steady
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"I remember from my Camaro days that steady on is emissions (cat, O2 sensor), & flashing is misfire (timing, plugs, etc)."If you remove the cat, is there any way to keep the light from coming on and staying on ? (My old driveway severely damaged my exhaust system. I can't afford a new cat, and where I live, emissions tests are not required.)
Hey, don't look at me, I'm mentally retireded.
Pre 96 yes, just remove it and take your chances that your state won't bag you with improper emissions equipment. The engine light will not turn on due to a missing Cat. Starting with the model year 96 and up, no can do. That's OBDII and the onboard diagnostics repeatedly test all systems for failures. It's done by monitoring the pre and post Cat conv 02 sensors. It's critical enough that some aftermarket replacement Cats have been known to fail the onboard tests.
Edited 3/18/2007 10:32 pm ET by misfit
Thank you very much.I have a 93.I am not positive I need to replace the cat. Just thinking ahead, like Piffin, here.
Hey, don't look at me, I'm mentally retireded.
I never removed my cat, but if I remember correctly you can replace the O2 with the properly sized resistor. That way the computer will always read the value required for it to think the cats fine.
I have no idea what value that is but I think thats how it is done.
That won't work because the voltage for ALL the 02's needs to vary. If it's a fixed value as you suggest, it will set a fault for insufficient activity. In addition, an Air Pump fault code will set too since the post Cat 02 sensor is used to verify pump operation.There are about 15-20 fault codes just for 02 sensors(4 sensor system).
As I said, I had not done this, but I believe that is what they used. i know there are different computer "routines" for cold and warm engines and I know they got around them somehow. I thought they said they used the resistors.
Thermistor, maybe?
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I doubt there will be enough temperature fluctuation in the exhaust for a thermister to work. It will most likely remain flat lined.
Quite a fluctuation when it goes from cold (say 70F) to hot (say 250F).
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
True, but that's just going from one extreme to another. The exhaust temp doesn't change enough, nor quick enough when driving down the road at a constant speed. The 02 voltage needs to constantly fluctuate up and down from a mean of 450 mv. If the PCM doesn't see sufficient change, including cross over of that mean, within a given time period, the insufficient activity fault is triggered.
250F might be high for the coolant temp sensor but not for exhaust at high speeds. Either way, the ECM wants to see a range, not a fixed value.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I was simply saying that there WOULD be a range, as the engine warmed up.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
just remember most computer controlled systems have a default program to compensate for a fault with the O2 sensors, so when they go bad they get ignored by the computer. anything wrong with the emissions will set them off. and just because they set off doesnt mean they went bad, they are there to go off when something is wrong with the mix. always test them first with a digital multimeter and tiny pins before replaceing.
That only works if the O2 sensor is after the cat and on most vehicles, it's on the exhaust manifold. Fooling the ECM into thinking the O2 is good will kill the cat if there's a situation that causes the motor to run rich.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Go ahead and invest in a simple code reader. I bought this one a few months ago and it works fine:
http://www.autobarn.net/eqobdiicodre.html
It was actually $10 cheaper through Amazon than if ordered directly through Autobarn.
It'll tell you exactly what the computer detected, so you don't have to guess.
Be aware that the light will reset after several starts if the problem does not recur.
GM cars will go into fail safe mode for what ever reason. disconnect postive side battery wait five minutes and reconnect, that will reboot the computer. If check engine comes back on, stealership time.
Its real common for the computer to go into fail safe. what that does is kills the power so you can limp into dealer without overheating and burning up motor.
For OBDI vehicles, yes that will reset the computer, turn off the light and clear the code from memory. For OBDII that will do nothing other than reset your clock. To reset an OBDII the computer needs a passed test result for 3 consecutive ignition cycles, and 40 consecutive warm up cycles to erase the code from memory. Or by using a scan tool. If the fault is still present, the light will come back on again.
Some codes will stay in memory in OBDI even with the battery disconnected. Using a scan tool (or paperclip) will generally clear them and it's not really a good idea to clear codes before they have been viewed.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
The codes are stored in non-volatile memory and while some situations can be corrected by disconnecting the battery cable, the codes won't reset. They designed this way because there's no guarantee that the battery will be good, connected or present when a servicer gets the vehicle to work on, so if the codes disappeared when the cable was disconnected, it would be impossible to diagnose. Again, some conditions can be resolved by disconnecting the cable but codes are still there.Bad sensors and bad readings are the only real reasons for codes to show up and RPM reduction (the real name for "Lime Home Mode") works by switching between injectors (TBI) or banks of injectors (all others). It runs bad but won't generally burn up unless the coolant has drained out or, if it's a boat with a bad raw water impeller, the water doesn't get into the motor.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Yep, after looking at all yer problems, try this:
Get yer favorite firearm and put down that poor hunk of tortured metal.
Next, go out and buy something fairly close that ends in an "a", like Honda or Toyota.
Then, after 264,000 miles, you can start posting about how you wish yer dang truck/car would break already so you could go out and buy one of those new nuclear powered hybids in 2015.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
You have the wrong thread for thistry me here
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=87328.1
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I'm still waiting to see a toyota truck worth driving at 246K miles.
I'm still waiting to see a toyota truck worth driving at 246K miles.385k
I have a Chevy Silverado with well over 200K on it and it runs great. I made a comment about short trips in another post and I stand by the fact that short trips and sitting kills motors. Also, the previous owner may not have maintained it well, which makes it almost impossible to know why it's having these issues. There are more 5.7L motors on the road than any other, both because they made more and because they were in the lineup since 1954. They are now made in Mexico and will probably continue to be made for another 50 years, just like the old car bodies made in South America and Mexico.It's hard to kill one of these motors but this one isn't dead, it has one or more bad sensors. Use a Toyota or Honda almost exclusively for short trips (other than towing) and it won't last long, either. Besides, you're in California, which is hardly known for cold, wet weather. Cool, maybe but not cold unless it's at high altitude. I still think the MAF sensor is bad. My Buick sat a lot for a couple of years and the MAF went bad because of the moisture killing the wires. Get the code, replace the parts. It's not the manufacturer's fault, it's the short trips and sitting.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I'm from Cali only since 2004, prior to that I was in the NW suburbs of Chicago. I am all about the cold and the wet - I remember it all too well.
I'm very happy that you are having a good, long life experience with your Silverado. I'm sure someone at GM lost his job because he let slip a vehical that should heve been replaced three times now!Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
"I'm sure someone at GM lost his job because he let slip a vehical that should heve been replaced three times now!"Could you say that in English for those of us who are slow?I'll disagree with you on the Honda and Toyota truck comments. The new Tundra does look interesting but it still doesn't have the load ratings or the power of the Chevy and the old Toyots trucks had a lot of trouble with engines keeping up the pace. It was more of a car engine in a truch body. The Toyota trucks I've been familiar with simply do not stand up to heavy work the way their cars stand up to long use. A heavy duty work truck like this Chevy will handle anything I can throw at it. It just needs some kind of part top be efficient. The GM truck v-8s have built this country since the second WW.
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Find a new inboard or sterndrive boat with anything other than a Chevy motor in it. Ford got out of marine in '94 buy PCM still had motors in stock until '99. All of the others use Chevy motors. Why? Because they're hard to kill in normal use. I have worked on boat motors that had been terribly abused, overheated, no oil change for 3 years, freeze plugs blown out, no tune up for who knows how many years and a lot of them were fine after the maintenance. Some, not so much. The Fords were good marine motors, too but they lost too much money over the years for it to be sustainable. Motors are, by necessity, made to withstand abuse because the auto makers know that not everyone will do the regular maintenance on schedule. They abuse the crap out of their test cars and trucks because they know what happens in real life. This one has a bad sensor and/or maybe a loose gas cap. You don't need to tell us what a POS it is just because you like Hondas. Honda makes a good car but they break just like all the rest. There is no perfect vehicle because if they never broke down, the auto makers wouldn't sell any parts and because of this, they'll never get them to the point of long life with no problems.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
See, that's where you are WAAAAAAYYYYY off base. See my sig below? I'm a fanatic - that's a fan with a bloodsucking bug up his a... for a 25 year old grocery getter. That makes me supremly qualified to give my unasked biased opinion. It's my darn JOB to troll car threads like this!Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Now I know what your tagline meant. I see it from time to time, and I thought you were into model railroading, but now that I think about it that's CSX.
Its a car, right?
Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!
Well, it's just a car if:
A Skill 77 is just a saw.
An EZ Guide is just a straightedge.
Li Ion is just a battery.
It's all that, and so much more.View Image
That's me standing in front by the silver 1986 CRX Si. This was a CRX meet that I hosted at my house in Illinois a few years back.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Wow! A whole yard full of mosquitos!
Nice cars but not a CRX fanatic.
>>> Get yer favorite firearm...
Paul, please stop, ROFL...
"Get yer favorite firearm and put down that poor hunk of tortured metal."Like on M.A.S.H., when Col. Potter shot his Jeep?
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
"Service engine soon" is kinda like....../ well, if YOU had a message center on your stomach, it might say..... "Eat soon".....
Nothing disastrous will happen in the short term if you ignore the message.... but sooner or later.........you gotta eat!!!!!
Actually, it's radio-controlled, and it means that the dealer has a boat payment due.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
The airbag light is lit on my Kia minivan at the moment... does that mean I need to crash soon?Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
The exact same thing I just went through. First check your altenator, if it aint pushin enough electrical the plugs wont fire and the engine will flood. O2 sensors are a waist, cause anything that affects your emissions will trip the sensors. I checked my altenator and it wasnt producing the juice, replaced it and everything works fine. If you do decide to replace your O2 sensor verify they arent working first. Very rarely do they go bad. My Van has over 100,000 miles on it and the sensors are still working.