I’m shingling a new garage with cedar shingles. Where the shingles go around the corners of windows, especially where they work there way around the drip edge, there is a little space..in other words it’s not a perfect tight fit, where the potential exists for water to seep into that space. Is it recommended to caulk or somehow seal these little spaces where it’s not real tight.
Thanks for the help.
Replies
I recomend a small bead of caulk where ever the siding comes into contact with a window/door/corner or any other interuption of the field.
Just to be clear.....your cedar shakes should be overlapping the drip edge....not merely butting to it.
FREE SPONGE BOB,SANCHO PANTS!
thanks for the reply. Yes, the shingles overlap the vertical flange of the drip edge (the part that is in contact with the wall) and rest on top of the horizontal surface of the drip edge (the part that covers the top of the window trim).
I am still not sure I'm picturing this right.If the metal drip at the head above the window, you do not caulk it . If you did, then any water entering the wall will be trapped, unable to run out the bottom of shingle over the metql.If you were - as I first thought, speaking of the sill ears at the bottm corner, you slide s slip of metal in there to lead water out over a lower course of shingles
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My specific question about caulking any spaces or gaps has to do with the corners where the drip edge is located.... where the shingles travel up the side of the window molding (casing) and are cut to then sit on top of the drip edge. I'm not caulking where the shingle sits on top of the drip edge... but was addressing the very corners, where small gaps between the shingle and the casing and drip edge ends might occurr.thanks.
I CNo, I would not caulk there.You have tarpaper wrapped under and/or Vycor seal to the nailing flange?
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yes, 15 lb felt
I ran into this situation 100 times when shingling my Oregon coast (on-the-beach) house, that has been tested with 70 mph winds and upward driven rain on several occassions (most recently this last week), and I've never had a problem. Here's what I did from start to finish.
1. Caulk flange when installing window
2. Use 9" Grace adhesive bitumen around window, lapping as per instructions, making sure the adhesive edge butts right up to window edge and SEALS perfectly all the way around. A small bead of Vulcum over this edge, wipped in perfectly with your finger may seem a bit over the top....but so are a couple of storms we have here every year.
3. Stainless Z-molding over window top, w/ SS nails around edge to hold in place (never through the Z molding itself
4. #15 felt over that up to window edge, caulking vertical and bottom of window edge, but not the top edge, as any water that would happen to get behind the #15 felt would have no way to get out. Keep felt horizontal lap joints at least 8-10" above or below window corners
5. Vulcum each course of edge of shingles going up to vertical window edge
6. At top corners, notch the shingles. NEVER caulk the bottom (or horizontal line) of shingle. Hold shingle up at least 1/4" above Z-molding
7. At bottom edges, first shingle course I notched the shingle and Vulcum'd the edges, including the top edge of the shortened shingle under the window.
8. Final shingle course on bottom edge I lined up verticlal shingle butt joint under vertical edge of window, so that water has a straight line to follow down edge of window, edge of top shingle and finally onto shingle underneath.
A double check on the effectiveness of your work (after-the-fact) is to watch the shingles dry out around your windows after a rain. If shingles remain wet on the corners long after the field shingles have dried out, this suggests the corner is retaining moisture.
BruceM